Suit Fit - 1818 Fitzgerald

[MJC8719x]

So, I just received a40R navy 2 button BB Fitzgerald suit today. I had first ordered a 38R but that was too small in the chest causing the lapels to buckle quite a bit. After trying on the 40R, I have the following concerns:

1. The right lapel still buckles/does not sit flat. The left lapel seems to be fine.

2. The pants that come with the 40R are tagged a size 34 and are quite big on me. I would probably need around 3in. taken out of them as my usual size is a 31. I believe I had read on here previously that 2in is the max. The pants feel much "baggier" as well throughout the thigh as compared to the ones I tried on with the 38R.

3. There is also a lot of room in the jacket. From what I had read on here, it sounded like more waist suppression is usually needed on this jacket, but I wonder if there is too much room.

4. The sleeves may need to be adjusted.

I am sure there may be other problems that I am not noticing on the suit that you experts can point out to me. I would appreciate it. From my perspective, if the lapel is still not sitting flat, this means the chest is still too tight which would mean going up to a 41R? I feel that this would make the jacket huge and the pants way too big.

Is my option to then consider MTM program BB does for the 1818? Throughout this month, BB is having a special on this, and I guess the "master tailor" is supposed to be at a store near-by to me this Saturday. Does anyone know how much more expensive this is? I would just be doing a basic fabric like what comes with this suit and nothing fancy? I am a student and this suit is more or less the top of my budget.

Or, is this suit type not suited for my body, and I need to consider something else.

Thanks you for all the help. I really appreciate it.

Pants Pictures:







Suit Jacket Open:


Suit Jacket Closed:


Side View:


Back View:


I don't know if this picture makes any sense, but I can slide my hand underneath the lapel on the right essentially without touching any fabric. If I try and do this on the left, I can't (lapel "sitting" on the shirt):


View to show up much space in the jacket:



Thank you again for taking the time to look at all these pics...I hope they can be helpful. I really appreciate all the advice given on this board, as I do not have a lot of knowledge about how a suit should fit.

 

[orthofrancis]

There is some variability in the fit of their suits. Usually 44L fits me fine in the shoulders, but one model (obtained from the factory)really pulled tight on my shoulders. I generally need fabric to be taken out at the waist, and body on the jacket, and waist, butt and thighs reduced on the pants as well. We could also just eat more

.

On your suit, the shoulders look perfect to me, but looks as if a LOT needs to be taken in the body (evidenced by the second to last photo from the front where you are pulling forward). The pants also look quite big.

Often their trunk shows have MTM events , where the suit is made for you at the regular price. I think that's where you future lies, at least with BB, since your shoulders are wide compared to your body.

 

[apropos]

Your right shoulder is dropped relative to your left. Which causes the right jacket shoulder to 'collapse' as there is no flesh under it to support it. As it collapses, the fabric on the front panel bows out.

 

[poelow]

Originally Posted by MJC8719x

So, I just received a40R navy 2 button BB Fitzgerald suit today. I had first ordered a 38R but that was too small in the chest causing the lapels to buckle quite a bit. After trying on the 40R, I have the following concerns....

Or, is this suit type not suited for my body, and I need to consider something else.




I think the problem is that the Fitzgerald cut is just not going to work for your body type. If you usually wear a 38R, and had to go to a 40R Fitzgerald which now has too much fabric and room, it seems like you are forcing your broad shoulders and body type into a suit not structured for you. I underwent the same thing when shopping for a BB suit. The Fitz was appealing because of the thinner lapels and "trim" expression, but when it came down to it, it didn't fit me in the shoulders. I had to wear a 39R Madison to be comfortable. In pictures 6 and 7, it looks like the fabric below the suit collar at your upper back is bunching up slightly- a sign that things might be too tight in the shoulders... I imagine this would be even more evident in the 38R.

Basically, because your normal jacket size didn't fit with the Fitz cut(shoulders being the issue), you went with a bigger jacket to alleviate the pressure, but just got more fabric. If you want BB, try on a Madison 38R and see how that works.

 

[MJC8719x]

Originally Posted by poelow

I think the problem is that the Fitzgerald cut is just not going to work for your body type. If you usually wear a 38R, and had to go to a 40R Fitzgerald which now has too much fabric and room, it seems like you are forcing your broad shoulders and body type into a suit not structured for you. I underwent the same thing when shopping for a BB suit. The Fitz was appealing because of the thinner lapels and "trim" expression, but when it came down to it, it didn't fit me in the shoulders. I had to wear a 39R Madison to be comfortable. In pictures 6 and 7, it looks like the fabric below the suit collar at your upper back is bunching up slightly- a sign that things might be too tight in the shoulders... I imagine this would be even more evident in the 38R.

Basically, because your normal jacket size didn't fit with the Fitz cut(shoulders being the issue), you went with a bigger jacket to alleviate the pressure, but just got more fabric. If you want BB, try on a Madison 38R and see how that works.

I may have come across incorrectly. I actually had no idea what my correct suit size was. This is the first "real" suit I have worn in years. I just kinda guessed at the 38. I feel that the suit fits length wise in the shoulders okay. I will try on the other suit types if I head to the store tomorrow. Thanks

Your right shoulder is dropped relative to your left. Which causes the right jacket shoulder to 'collapse' as there is no flesh under it to support it. As it collapses, the fabric on the front panel bows out.

In regard to the dropped shoulder, how do I go about fixing this? Is this something a tailor can do? Is it something that could be fixed my doing a MTM program and letting the tailor measuring me know

Does anyone know about the pricing of the MTM program?

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Maybe something with a strong shoulder would work better.

Ralph Lauren Black label possibly in a 40R

If that doesnt work, i'd go MTM, but probably not at BB as they cater more to the sack suit crowd.

 

[Recoil]

The problem with the lapbel happens to me with one of my Black Label suits. You can try rolling the lapel out a bit to prevent it from "kinking" (that is the best way I can describe it)

The problem, my tailor tells me, is that there is not enough fabric between the side seam and lapel. This happens to me because I don't have wash board chest that is totally flat, its more lumpy.

 

[PocketCircle]

The jacket should be fine with some alteration but the pants are ill-fitting especially around the bum area.

 

[Felix Krull]

I fail to understand why men who know relatively little about clothing continue to buy tailored clothes online. Needless to say, for the price of the 1818 Fitzgerald you could have purchased an entry level MTM suit which would have fit you infinitely better than that sack suit you now are stuck with.

It may be okay to buy jeans and t-shirts online, but tailored clothes require a precise fit to avoid looking sloppy or oafish. There is no justification whatsoever for someone like yourself buying a suit online. Please return that horrible looking suit, take the money and go to your nearest store that offers MTM services or call Tom James or some other traveling fashion show and get a properly fitted suit.

 

[MJC8719x]

Originally Posted by Felix Krull

I fail to understand why men who know relatively little about clothing continue to buy tailored clothes online. Needless to say, for the price of the 1818 Fitzgerald you could have purchased an entry level MTM suit which would have fit you infinitely better than that sack suit you now are stuck with. It may be okay to buy jeans and t-shirts online, but tailored clothes require a precise fit to avoid looking sloppy or oafish. There is no justification whatsoever for someone like yourself buying a suit online. Please return that horrible looking suit, take the money and go to your nearest store that offers MTM services or call Tom James or some other traveling fashion show and get a properly fitted suit.
First of all, I think the very fact that I posted these pictures on here and asked for feedback indicates that I am interested in getting a good-fitting suit. I believe I even identified the issues that most people here raised (not that bad for someone who knows "relatively little about clothing") Secondly, I am interested in a more conservative cut suit that would be appropriate for interviews etc. This forum seems to recommend RLBL and the BB Fitzgerald. As RLBL is way out of my budget, I decided to order a Fitzgerald online (which no one has called a "sack" suit on this forum) to try it out. This was after calling the closest BB to me and being told they did not stock the Fitzgerald in the size(s) I was interested in. After getting it, I knew there were some issues, so I posted here to get some help/advice. I think my posts have been quite clear in the fact that I can still return this suit! Its why I have not ever considered buying a suit from the B&S forum as I do not have much experience in determining my size and wanted to get something that I could try on and return no problem. Based on the fit of this suit etc., I will end up returning it and perhaps considering the MTM program depending on its cost. You come across as an ass, and there is really no need for it.

 

[Felix Krull]

Sir, my tone is tinged with annoyance because you are not the first, nor, unfortunately, will you be the last, to post here and elsewhere that you ordered an ill-fitting suit and are hoping to obtain some insightful words of wisdom to aide your calamity. I have little sympathy for your plight since I reason that if you were truly interested in getting a good fitting suit you would not have ordered it online. I apologize if my indifference to your dilemma offends you but caveat emptor.

 

[MJC8719x]

Originally Posted by Felix Krull

Sir, my tone is tinged with annoyance because you are not the first, nor, unfortunately, will you be the last, to post here and elsewhere that you ordered an ill-fitting suit and are hoping to obtain some insightful words of wisdom to aide your calamity. I have little sympathy for your plight since I reason that if you were truly interested in getting a good fitting suit you would not have ordered it online. I apologize if my indifference to your dilemma offends you but caveat emptor.

I am not hoping to find insightful words to aide my "calamity". I was here to get advice that essentially confirmed what I thought - that this suit does not fit well in its present state - and to see if these were tailorable issues. They appear not to be, so I will be returning the suit.

If you had read my post, you would have seen that I had mentioned that it was impossible for me to try this suit on in a store! Thus, the need to order it online coupled with the fact that the Fitzgerald was on sale, so I thought it would be a good chance to try (not buy and keep!) the suit.

It is not your indifference that bothered me, but the fact that you come across as a complete ass and you insult me for no good reason.

 

[Recoil]

You appear to be quite skinny without the jacket on, but it looks way to big around the body and makes you look like you are carrying some serious weight. If you were stuck with it I'd say take it to a tailer and have them clean it up, if not, I'd return it.

Suits are something I always buy in a store unless I've already purchased that exact cut, size, model, etc.


Unrelated to the critique. I think we all need to start somewhere and if you don't have someone advising you every step of the way it is difficult to know exactly how something should fit. I spent a lot of time learning about fit, cut and tailoring to get it just right before I really felt confident in the suits I wore, and there were definitely some mistakes along the way. Don't worry about the haters who rag on your thread, while they are right, you will not get a perfect suit from the Internet, at least you are trying to dress well, unlike 99% of the population. I give you credit for taking the time to come on and learn about the fit, most people would never ever take that step.

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by Felix Krull

Sir, my tone is tinged with annoyance because you are not the first, nor, unfortunately, will you be the last, to post here and elsewhere that you ordered an ill-fitting suit and are hoping to obtain some insightful words of wisdom to aide your calamity. I have little sympathy for your plight since I reason that if you were truly interested in getting a good fitting suit you would not have ordered it online. I apologize if my indifference to your dilemma offends you but caveat emptor.
If you are truly so offended/'indifferent', walk away.

There is no obligation to stay around and be snarky, which ironically somewhat contradicts your stated 'indifference'.

OP, the jacket is way too baggy around the chest. Measure your chest circumference, then lay the jacket flat and measure the length across from armpit-armpit, then double the measurement - the number you arrive at should be IMO 2.5-4" larger than your chest measurement, depending on how fitted you want your coat to be.

 

[jcc123]

It looks like you picked a suit made for a fat person. What size is the pants? Super fat? The waist and skirt looks like it's made that way.