Suit fabric

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mecnun, Apr 30, 2006.

  1. Mecnun

    Mecnun Well-Known Member

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    Any views on what is a good and durable fabric weight and type? What are the best fabric makers? Brioni seems to be using Scabal and Loro Piana a lot. Are the Italian fabrics better/worse than the English makers? What is a good weight of a fabric for more durability and seasonality, i.e. between 250-300 grams (anything heavier is to heavy for me)? Is there relation between a weight of a fabric and its durability or does it depend more on the fineness of the yarn?
     
  2. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Generally the English makers and heavier fabrics will be more durable and drape better. See Lesser, Smith, Holland & Sherry, Moxon for example.

    A standard 80s or 100s 310-400 gram (10-13 oz) worsted from those merchants should be wearable for three seasons and be hard-wearing. Rubinacci's tailors can advise you on such.

    Edit: anything over 300 grams is too heavy for you? Where do you live? Some more open weaves (hard to find RTW) are considerably cooler and can be wear in heavier weights.
     
  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Heavier fabrics are much easier to tailor than light ones.


    That being said, I rarely order anything over 280gm for a suit or over 320gm for a sportcoat. I think that the super heavy cloths look great, but they feel like shit.
     
  4. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    And in locales like mine (Scottsdale) anything over 320 grams is unwearable even in December.

    The upshot is that what climate you are experiencing is probably the biggest factor you can have in fabric weight. I would stay above 280 grams if I could and would prefer 320 but it simply isn't wearable in this hot a climate.

    Went shopping with the wife today and she really couldn't get into thinking about clothes saying, "in a few weeks we won't be able to wear clothes for a few months."

    Perry
     
  5. Mecnun

    Mecnun Well-Known Member

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    Heavier fabrics are much easier to tailor than light ones.


    That being said, I rarely order anything over 280gm for a suit or over 320gm for a sportcoat. I think that the super heavy cloths look great, but they feel like shit.


    What about a Super 150s at 250 grams from Brioni? View on looks, feel & durability?
     
  6. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Hi,

    Don't expect that to last through years of regular wear.
     

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