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Suit Fabric weight for UK/London summer

Andrew0409

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I'm starting a job in London, I am having a suit MTM. There is a fabric I really like but it's 340g, is this too heavy and hot for the London summer months?
 

bdavro23

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London doesnt have summer months, it has summer days...

The answer is "it depends". What is the weave of the fabric? Do you run hot. Indoor/ outdoor primary use? Desk job or other.

The short answer is its probably fine.
 

Andrew0409

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London doesnt have summer months, it has summer days...

The answer is "it depends". What is the weave of the fabric? Do you run hot. Indoor/ outdoor primary use? Desk job or other.

The short answer is its probably fine.
I do run hot. But I’m working a desk job inside so I should be fine. I’m just a bit worried about taking the tube in the summer. I heard it was extremely hot.
 

Whitehall

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A 340g wool flannel in London on a hot August day on a non-aircon tube line will cook you alive.

340g Cotton or Linen is another story.
 

R.O. Thornhill

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Agree with Whitehall - the type of fabric will matter a lot. And if you commute by tube there will be days when any suit will be a struggle.

I would generally go for 10/11oz in summer in London, and high twist / open weave, and that’s commuting by cab.

ROT
 

Andrew0409

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A 340g wool flannel in London on a hot August day on a non-aircon tube line will cook you alive.

340g Cotton or Linen is another story.
It’s from this fabric book. Although I would probably just take the jacket off anyways in the tube if it’s hot in any jacket. So I guess it doesn’t matter that much.

 

Whitehall

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s150s in 340g would undoubtedly look beautiful but with most of the weaves in that book you'll definitely be uncomfortably hot after walking outside during the summer for any longer than about 30 seconds, and as we've already said the tube will be a living hell. The fineness of s150s and density of the weave will make it warmer still than a 340g of a coarser fabric e.g. a standard issue s110s or s120s.

You should go with what speaks to you and don't feel bad about it, but consider setting something aside to pick up a summer weight or lighter all-seasons suit to back it up. You'll ideally not want to wear the same suit on consecutive days anyway.

Best of luck with the job and enjoy whatever you go for!
 

Andrew0409

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s150s in 340g would undoubtedly look beautiful but with most of the weaves in that book you'll definitely be uncomfortably hot after walking outside during the summer for any longer than about 30 seconds, and as we've already said the tube will be a living hell. The fineness of s150s and density of the weave will make it warmer still than a 340g of a coarser fabric e.g. a standard issue s110s or s120s.

You should go with what speaks to you and don't feel bad about it, but consider setting something aside to pick up a summer weight or lighter all-seasons suit to back it up. You'll ideally not want to wear the same suit on consecutive days anyway.

Best of luck with the job and enjoy whatever you go for!
I see. Maybe I’ll get another suit made just for those hot summer days. I think this first one would be a solid 3 season suit for London. We do hybrid working and mostly business casual from what I understand. I would only wear it on days with important meetings with higher ups and clients.

What weight can you recommend for the summer in the U.K.? 120s would also be ideal for summer?
 

Whitehall

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I see. Maybe I’ll get another suit made just for those hot summer days. I think this first one would be a solid 3 season suit for London. We do hybrid working and mostly business casual from what I understand. I would only wear it on days with important meetings with higher ups and clients.

What weight can you recommend for the summer in the U.K.? 120s would also be ideal for summer?
Agree it'd be a solid 3-season option.

For a summer suit in London, you can get away with a typical all-seasons 270-280g in wool but it's not ideal for the warmest days in July and August. 230-240g range will be more comfortable in the summer but won't drape as nicely and, as a general rule of thumb, a lighter fabric is often less forgiving of infelicities of fit. Very lightweight wool fabrics, down in the 220g weight range, are often reserved for jacketings or very warm climates but could be used at the expense of spring/autumn versatility.

Weight, and to a varying extent weave, will make more difference than fineness of the yarn, but yes s110s or s120s will be a bit cooler than an equivalent weight s150s as the yarn density of the fabric helps insulate.

Cotton can be an option to maintain some weight in the fabric without it being too warm but it can look overly casual if care is not taken in fabric selection and design choices. Linen probably wears the coolest of all but some consider the wrinkles that characterise all but the heaviest of linen unsuited to a professional look, however it's cut.

For a first high quality work suit I'd highly recommend taking a look at Holland & Sherry Crispaire in solid navy (3321053) or either a dark or mid grey. As a high-twist bunch it has beautiful drape, breathability, crease resistance, durability, and still looks discernibly very high quality to the eye. Its weight at 280g would usually sound borderline for summer but as an open high-twist weave it'll be a little more temperature-modulating than usual, and will be easy to care for year-round.
 

Andrew0409

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Agree it'd be a solid 3-season option.

For a summer suit in London, you can get away with a typical all-seasons 270-280g in wool but it's not ideal for the warmest days in July and August. 230-240g range will be more comfortable in the summer but won't drape as nicely and, as a general rule of thumb, a lighter fabric is often less forgiving of infelicities of fit. Very lightweight wool fabrics, down in the 220g weight range, are often reserved for jacketings or very warm climates but could be used at the expense of spring/autumn versatility.

Weight, and to a varying extent weave, will make more difference than fineness of the yarn, but yes s110s or s120s will be a bit cooler than an equivalent weight s150s as the yarn density of the fabric helps insulate.

Cotton can be an option to maintain some weight in the fabric without it being too warm but it can look overly casual if care is not taken in fabric selection and design choices. Linen probably wears the coolest of all but some consider the wrinkles that characterise all but the heaviest of linen unsuited to a professional look, however it's cut.

For a first high quality work suit I'd highly recommend taking a look at Holland & Sherry Crispaire in solid navy (3321053) or either a dark or mid grey. As a high-twist bunch it has beautiful drape, breathability, crease resistance, durability, and still looks discernibly very high quality to the eye. Its weight at 280g would usually sound borderline for summer but as an open high-twist weave it'll be a little more temperature-modulating than usual, and will be easy to care for year-round.
Thanks for your help and solid advice.
 

Andrew0409

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Agree it'd be a solid 3-season option.

For a summer suit in London, you can get away with a typical all-seasons 270-280g in wool but it's not ideal for the warmest days in July and August. 230-240g range will be more comfortable in the summer but won't drape as nicely and, as a general rule of thumb, a lighter fabric is often less forgiving of infelicities of fit. Very lightweight wool fabrics, down in the 220g weight range, are often reserved for jacketings or very warm climates but could be used at the expense of spring/autumn versatility.

Weight, and to a varying extent weave, will make more difference than fineness of the yarn, but yes s110s or s120s will be a bit cooler than an equivalent weight s150s as the yarn density of the fabric helps insulate.

Cotton can be an option to maintain some weight in the fabric without it being too warm but it can look overly casual if care is not taken in fabric selection and design choices. Linen probably wears the coolest of all but some consider the wrinkles that characterise all but the heaviest of linen unsuited to a professional look, however it's cut.

For a first high quality work suit I'd highly recommend taking a look at Holland & Sherry Crispaire in solid navy (3321053) or either a dark or mid grey. As a high-twist bunch it has beautiful drape, breathability, crease resistance, durability, and still looks discernibly very high quality to the eye. Its weight at 280g would usually sound borderline for summer but as an open high-twist weave it'll be a little more temperature-modulating than usual, and will be easy to care for year-round.
I ended up getting a 250g suit as well for the summer.
 

JJ Katz

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We have had whole months above 25 C in London, in recent years. You method of commute also makes a major difference.
11-12 oz in full summer would be unbearable for me. Also, there’s a LOT less AC in London...
 

Panama

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I do run hot. But I’m working a desk job inside so I should be fine. I’m just a bit worried about taking the tube in the summer. I heard it was extremely hot.
Buy a bike and shower when you get to work. The underground is extremely unpleasant and full of cemented shoe riff raff.
 

'patanoster

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I do run hot. But I’m working a desk job inside so I should be fine. I’m just a bit worried about taking the tube in the summer. I heard it was extremely hot.
On hot days, there is nothing you can wear that will be mitigate the unpleasant temperatures on most lines. Central is probably the worst offender, its like the seventh circle of hell. Best to plan to travel above ground when the temps creep above mid twenties.

Buy a bike and shower when you get to work. The underground is extremely unpleasant and full of cemented shoe riff raff.
On the one hand I totally agree, cycling is the right answer. But (having gone from dressing more like riff raff before lockdown to less like riff raff now) what do you people do -- store your work wardrobe in the office? Surely not slinging the days outfit in a backpack each day...
 

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