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Suit Fabric Help (Chan)

alebrady

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I am going to be working on my first suit with Chan in the next week and am hoping to get some input on fabric selections. I am particularly interested in others that may have worked with Chan during his U.S. visits and be familiar with the fabric choices that he has to offer. Ideally, I'd like to get some specific fabric and brand names, as i am very new to making my own fabric selections.

I am thinking of getting either a solid navy or charcoal for the first go around. Ideally something of a year round (though i know nothing is truly year round, am i correct in thinking this would imply maybe a 9 or 10 ounce weight?) and nothing too delicate that it cant be traveled extensively with - the suit is for work, not just special occasion, so it has to be somewhat durable, however, i dont want any special 'traveler' type wools.

Also, dont know if it would matter but i am probably going to go with a fairly soft suit. Nothing like a drape but probably request a little softer and less shoulder than what i understand his standard cut to be (i guess something leaning a little towards italian than british - i.e. maybe think brioni). Would this have any impact on the fabric i should select.

Any other thoughts as i am about to embark?

Thanks!
 

JLibourel

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To begin with, you seem a little muddled about what you want. Most men knowledgeable about suits would not characterize Brioni's look as "soft" by any manner or means.

I would talk to Patrick about what you want and let yourself be guided his judgement. He's very good at that sort of thing.

Since your first suit with them is something of a "trial run" and the fit will not be as perfected as on your subsequent orders, my suggestion would be something on the order of a Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 120 or 130 in about a 9-ounce weight, just to keep costs reasonable. It should still be a very nice suit. You can go to the more expensive suitings on your later orders if you want.

Where will you be meeting Patrick? I'll be seeing him in Beverly Hills at 11:00 a.m.
 

alebrady

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J,

Ill be seeing him in San Fran. I can see why you think i may be muddled but in fact i have a good idea of what i want - although, perhaps did not articulate it well. I realize brioni is not soft in absolute terms. I would characterize it as being softer than say a dege, kilgour, or british military styles i have seen. no doubt, brioni can be characterized as stiff (at least compared to other italian makers, particularly neopolitan) but i would not characterize it as stiff in absolute terms.

I think although brioni may be padded, it has a fluidity of movement that i associate with italian more than british (and here i am assuming that chan's default style would be stiffer english, but perhaps that is wrong).

Dont know if that makes any more sense or if you would still disagree
smile.gif


Thanks for the fabric suggestion - i did not consider it being the first suit perhaps going with a more reasonably priced fabric (a great suggestion). You suggested a 9oz weight - was i correct in thinking 9 or 10oz is going to be a pretty versatile weight?
 

JLibourel

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I was thinking 9 ounces for Southern California. Ten ounces might be better for San Francisco. You might PM forum member Will, who is extremely knowledgeable about these matters and would be better prepared to advise you.

Be aware that a lot of the fabric weights will be set forth in grams/meter, rather than ounces, so it might be prudent to make up a conversion scale of ounces to grams if you're like me and not that deeply conversant with the metric system.
 

alebrady

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thanks - i had looked up a calculator online previously so i will be sure to do my homework on the conversion beforehand.

Are the VBC's a 'quality' fabric (even though you seem to imply that they are quite basic?).

the only other fabrics i really have any familiarity with are zegna and holland sherry (although, i dont have any clothing in the latter, just seen them in books)
 

offline100

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I just went through this process a few weeks ago. I wanted a year-round weight too. Here's my thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=38272 with some input from Will. In the end I went for a somewhat expensive Holland & Sherry -- I figured it's a custom suit; even as a first draft it darn well better fit well, last me a while and be thought of as more central to my wardrobe than just some "test run." Anyways, most of the "my first chan" threads coming through the pipeline right now are looking pretty good. Although the CrispAire fresco was appealing, in the end I went with Holland & Sherry Super 120s worsted 9oz. in dark navy herringbone. It's beautiful for a 'solid' suit; the herringbone is very subtle. It comes in charcoal too. If you ask Patrick what a "year-round" fabric is, he will tell you 9 oz. and reach for some Loro Piana. If you tell him you want something that will hold its shape better, he will turn away from the Italian fabrics and give you the Holland & Sherry book I just mentioned. The other advice I would give is to wear your best fitting clothing, bring a picture that resembles what you want, and bring the checklist of things you want (some thread has a good one; in fact it might be in our wiki).
 

offline100

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^ I should add that the specific H&S fabric is from their 'Summer Target' book (I presume they mean the UK summer, or 70F degrees, heh.) An H&S rep I talked to mirrored Patrick's enthusiasm for this collection and said it's quite popular.
 

alebrady

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offline, very helpful thanks. it looked like there was some consensus about 10 (or even 11) being an 'ideal' year-round weight. any reason why you went with the 9(is it the overheating you mentioned)?

Im a little uncertain what to do here (i.e. whether to err light or heavy...i guess there wouldnt be much difference between 9 and 10 anyway?).

If you dont mind my asking, do you recall what the incremental fabric cost was for the H&S (i.e. how much more than a VBC basic)?

In fact, a general question for everyone - if i stick to the 9-10oz weight range, would i notice an appreciable declination in how the fabric drapes as opposed to a heavier weight fabric?

Also, curious if there is any more general fabric selection advice before i commit.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by alebrady
If you dont mind my asking, do you recall what the incremental fabric cost was for the H&S (i.e. how much more than a VBC basic)?

If I recall, the H&S Target was around $1,500 US for a 2-piece while the VBC ran a hair more than $1,000. But that was in March, and the dollar continues its downward spiral.
 

Fishball

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I used to live in SF for four yrs. At night, it is cool in San Fran, so I think it is ok to wear even 12oz, but you will feel hot at noon in the summer.

H&S target is great, it cost GBP70 per meter, it drapes well. I like the #290028 and #290029, both are grey, #290025 navy, all in super100's 9oz-270gm.
 

Fishball

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Vintage Gent,

It doesn't make sense at all.
I bought the H&S cloth directly, and it just cost USD420, how can they charge USD500 more on top of the VBC? Chan is making BIG money.
 

offline100

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Originally Posted by Fishball
Vintage Gent,

It doesn't make sense at all.
I bought the H&S cloth directly, and it just cost USD420, how can they charge USD500 more on top of the VBC? Chan is making BIG money.

True dat. The NYC H&S rep told me they sold it at USD$99/yard actually. Then she said she wasn't supposed to tell me that. alebrady, I guess I just didn't see an H&S in 10/11oz I loved. I was told H&S keeps its shape better and drapes and travels better than other Supers. But I'm no expert; maybe others can chime in.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by Fishball
Vintage Gent,

It doesn't make sense at all.
I bought the H&S cloth directly, and it just cost USD420, how can they charge USD500 more on top of the VBC? Chan is making BIG money.


Well, my memory could be faulty, but I could swear those were the prices. If you want the definitive word on Chan prices, a quick e-mail to Arnold Wong, Chan's sales rep, should settle things.
 

offline100

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^ I think you're approximately right. What you said is about what I remember.

Edit: maybe a little less disparity ($1100 vs. $1450 or so).
 

Fishball

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Vintage,

I believe what you said, just don't like the mark up by Chan.

I think Scabal is another good option to go for.
I just bought 3m of 8/9oz super's 100 for USD225.
 

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