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Suit Fabric Discussion

texasmade10

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I need some clarification and I think many others would like it as well.

I have seen many HK tailors and even NY tailors advertise fabric booklets. 120s, 150s, 180. Obviously this means nothing to someone who knows fabrics, a high quality 100 is better than a junky 180. I am confused to the types of fabrics, especially when almost all of my suits have tags that say 100% wool. How can it be that they are pure wool, no cashmere/rayon/polyester in them. Pure wool doesn't feel smooth, it is rougher than these suits. Here are some of my questions I have.

What really makes a fabric better?
What about wool and cashmere blends? I have seen many booklets called Wool and Cashmere but they feel just like my OTR suits which say 100% wool. I think its misleading!
Any suggestions regarding how to look at these fabric booklets? How to find winners?
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by texasmade10
Pure wool doesn't feel smooth, it is rougher than these suits.
Yes it does, and no it isn't. Raw wool may be rough, but when it's twisted together and woven into a worsted fabric the surface is smooth. Other fabrics, such as tweeds, can be more rough.
Originally Posted by texasmade10
What about wool and cashmere blends? I have seen many booklets called Wool and Cashmere but they feel just like my OTR suits which say 100% wool. I think its misleading!
It says there's cashmere in it, and there is cashmere in it. How exactly are you being mislead? Generally cashmere will be softer than pure wool, but it obviously depends just how much cashmere is there; 5% cashmere for example is not going to make much difference.
 

texasmade10

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I am not sure what you mean by pure wool is softer than these suits. I have pure wool blends that are not close to as smooth as my wool and cashmere blends.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by texasmade10
I am not sure what you mean by pure wool is softer than these suits. I have pure wool blends that are not close to as smooth as my wool and cashmere blends.

What on earth is a 'pure wool blend'? How can it be 'pure wool' if it's a blend...

And of course wool/cashmere will tend to be softer than comparable pure wool, but that does not mean pure wool will be rough, especially if it is a high super it can still be very soft and smooth, it does not need cashmere to avoid being 'rough', and it certainly doesn't need polyester or rayon.
 

Shirtmaven

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texasmade10
you seem to be confusing yourself with many of your own questions.

A worsted wool will you usually be very smooth while a woolen will be fuzzy.

generally customers want the high yarn counts. they often feel nicer then lower yarn counts, but might not last as long.


You have to trust your eyes, hands and your tailor.
 

dirtyturk

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i believe pure wool blend refers to a mixture of different wools.
ie. 100% wool but maybe not 100% merino wool
 

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