Suit critique

[lifeonmars]

This is my first 'real' suit. I'm pretty happy with it for a first attempt, and plan on getting a 2nd one made. Any comments/suggestions on improving it would be appreciated.

The jacket may seem short, but my arms are really long. Jackets that go down to where my fingers curl make it look like I'm drowning in fabric. Still, I plan to get the next suit longer (but not sure how much). You can see bunching behind the sleeves when my arms are at my side, this lessens when I move them forward. Is there a way to reduce this? Any thoughts on button stance, waist surpression and shoulder padding? Everyone seems to be after natural shoulders, but I think I need the padding there

So the list of planned changes for the next one is: - longer jacket - tapered sleeves (and mabye thinner?)

 

[Chips]

I'd agree that the sleeves need to be tapered more. They actually bell out around your wrists. The jacket is a touch too short. And you definitely have something weird going on with the back view of your right shoulder. Too much material. The shoulders look over padded in my opinion, too squared off. And some waist suppression might help even things out, and give you the boldness of your shoulders that you are trying to achieve with padding instead.

Pants could be hemmed a bit more as well. All in all not hideously bad, but it just doesn't look like it was made for your body.

 

[culverwood]

Is the floor flat in the back view your left shoulder seems high and in the front view your right shoulder?

 

[brittain]

I agree you have way too much fabric around the back and in the shoulders. More waist suppression, more open quarters, narrowers sleeves, longer jacket.

who made this for you? was it MTM?

 

[Wrigglez]

for me, maybe i've see to many SF posts but it looks a little big al over bar the length of the skirt which could be lengthened. for future maybe buy one which is smaller in the chest. there seems to be no waist supression so the smaller chest may help that. shoulders are ok though.

 

[vequrio]

You seem to have very long arms, I have the same issue, which is why I usually go for jackets that are longer than what most people would consider the proper length. The proportions are off when the sleeves are so close to the jacket hem.

Otherwise a bit on the baggy side, yet wearable. Can't tell if you're standing straight or not, but the sleeves might need altering in order to show the same amount of cuff in both hands.

 

[Coburn]

Hi Lifeonmars
Because your torso is long and thin, open quarters would provide needed breadth to you appearance. I think this would also ameliorate the issue with the jacked length

It appears the jacket has a little too much fabric on the back.

In the side view, the bottom of the jacket appears to protrude, I suspect this is a function or you posture and stance -- your hips are jutting forward.

I agree with the others, it seems the sleeve needs to be tapered at the wrist. But, it may need to be narrowed on the entire sleeve.

I would taper the upper thighs by half an inch.

Someone built like you should suppress the waist, it also adds shape and breadth to your torso.

I think it's a decent looking suit. If you can't alter the issues above, at least have a tailor pull in the waist and the sleeve at the wrist

In looking at all the pictures of men with new suits on this site. I've noticed that suits always look worse because of this 'robot stance'.

Regards

 

[calvinloke]

Originally Posted by brittain

I agree you have way too much fabric around the back and in the shoulders. More waist suppression, more open quarters, narrowers sleeves, longer jacket.

who made this for you? was it MTM?


With the presence of the last buttonhole, is it possible for a tailor to do anything with open quarters? Pardon my ignorance.

 

[brittain]

Originally Posted by calvinloke

With the presence of the last buttonhole, is it possible for a tailor to do anything with open quarters? Pardon my ignorance.

I would have to defer to someone more knowledgeable on whether or not the current jacket could be made more open, I was referring more to his planned second order. good question, though, Im curious as well.

 

[calvinloke]

I am thinking the tailor will reshape the area below the last buttonhole but that was just my wild guess. I don't think that would look good either. Perhaps a_tailor will be able to provide a sensible answer for us.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by culverwood

Is the floor flat in the back view your left shoulder seems high and in the front view your right shoulder?

you are right,but take a look at his shirt collar. that looks like a left low. but then he just may be wearing the jacket off center.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by calvinloke

With the presence of the last buttonhole, is it possible for a tailor to do anything with open quarters? Pardon my ignorance.

only the area below the buttonhole can be re shaped. but i dont think the result would be good.

 

[a tailor]

first be sure that you send all these pictures with your next order. point out that the front should be longer at the top. and the back should be shorter at the top. thats where the balance is at. and thats why the bottom is slanted, and front kicks out as it does.
tell them what the finished length is that you want on the coat.
if the sleeve is to be tapered, take it easy. dont over do it. that will look weird.
suggest that the quarters be opened a bit. but not too much.
you should determine and tell them if you have a low shoulder.
thats all i can think of now. good luck.

 

[bowtielover]

It is too big in the back of the shoulders and upper back, also the left shoulders is drooping in the front. The pants seem to fit and the jacket fits well in the waist but the right sleeve is shorter then the left.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by a tailor

first be sure that you send all these pictures with your next order. point out that the front should be longer at the top. and the back should be shorter at the top. thats where the balance is at. and thats why the bottom is slanted, and front kicks out as it does.
tell them what the finished length is that you want on the coat.

I agree totally. The problem with that coat is the balance is off. Because the wearer is a bit over erect, with sway back posture, the front balance needs to be lengthened, and the back shortened a little. The reasons the bottom of the foreparts overlap too much is because of the balance issue. It is has nothing to do with whether the foreparts have been cut to give the ubiquitous and tiresome thing about the "open quarters" (what the heck is a quarter?).

The sleeve pitch is also incorrect. It needs to be set further forward.