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Suit Critique thread

VINSON

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*** Updated with better photos Better photos:
*** Hi everyone, first post. I recently had a suit made for me and I'd appreciate all criticisms. It is a MTM suit from HK. I'll divulge more details later if anyone is interested but I don't want it to hamper any criticisms (although I doubt it will). The jacket was sent back to the tailor today when I realized the sleeves were uneven (when they are even in the photos, if they are, it is because I made 1 of the shirt sleeves shorter by holding the fabric than it normally is). I broke my collar bone (clavical?) in grade 9 and did not realize that the shoulder with the broken bone is about an inch or so lower than the other. Well, I didn't realize it until today at the tailors. My brother took 2 types of photos: Shots from a high angle (from a tall person's POV) and shots from a person around my height.
The last one is another spread of the back POV but it is rather large so I am linking it. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...nt/08Back2.jpg I'd appreciate any criticisms. There is very little waist suppression and maybe for a casual jacket I would take in the waist 2 inches on each side but for a suit I think it is better to have more room for movement.
 

voxsartoria

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My reactions are:

1. Even if it isn't the style I would choose for myself, it looks decent on you.

2. Your sleeves are pitched too forward...see if they would rotate it a bit backward for you.

3. The fit around your rear end is not terrific. It seems like an easy fix, though.

4. You definitely do not need more waist suppression.

5. It could be photographic distortion, but I am not wild about the dimensions of your hip pocket flaps in relation to your lapels. The former seem to dominate the latter. The lapels themselves are nicely shaped.

6. I would prefer trimmer legs ending in cuffs with that suit.

7. The buttoning point on the coat seems rather high...were you going for a paddock coat...that is, for both buttons to be fastened on either side of your natural waist? Jacket seems a little long, which accentuates this.

- B
 

dk123

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I like it! But I'm no expert. Seems like the pants could be 1/2" shorter.
 

Joseph K. Bank

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I feel that this would be a very professional ensemble if the suit had horizontally straight pockets and a single vent back. I also think that your sleeves should be lengthened by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch.
 

vitaminc

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1. I am not a fan of slanted front pockets; it adds weight to your belly. But it's just me.

2. The waist line appears to be low and jackets too long. You look short and fat in the suit.

3. Pants are horrible. They fits like a bag and all those extra fabrics in the front side of the pants add weight to your lower body. Oh and better fix the creases around your arse.

4. I would probably add a little bit of length to your right jacket sleeve; it looks a bit short compare to the left side.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Joseph K. Bank
I also think that your sleeves should be lengthened by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch.

Originally Posted by vitaminc
4. I would probably add a little bit of length to your right jacket sleeve; it looks a bit short compare to the left side.

I disagree about the sleeve lengths. It seems right to me, terminating above the wrists. The different amount of shirt cuff showing is probably just one side getting caught more in one sleeve, or the likely fact that the jacket sleeve lengths are tailored right and left, but the shirt sleeves tailored to one length for both sides.

Again, I think the suit looks decent on you and that there are things that you can do to make it fit better, and thus, look better.

But...

This is an interesting example of what one can risk in MTM or bespoke compared to RTW. There's a lot of bad RTW, but there is also RTW that is styled well or even expertly (albeit for a generic non-existent person).

Once a person takes style decisions into one's personal hands, and if one works with a fitter or tailor who is not of top rank, the results can have some ambiguity even if one has been fortunate in getting something that fits better than RTW.

- B
 

VINSON

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Thanks for all the quick responses; kind words and criticisms. Fit of pants: Is my suit stylistically similar to this one? It looks like we have similar issues although my suit was not made by Chan. http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...493#post958493 Another question: when I sit down, the pockets of the pants open up awkwardly. Would a better tailor be able to make slim pants where this doesn't happen? Button Stance: RE: Waistline - that is my true waist line; not much I can do to change my body. However, if I lowered the button stance (on my next suit) would it fix that issue? It does seem higher than normal. On the other hand, I've read that as a short person (I'm 5 foot 5 inches) I should minimize the shirt area shown by the suit. Jacket Length: The jacket barely covers my arse. If I took it in even 0.5 inches or so it wouldn't cover my bottom anymore. My hips are quite wide =/ Would it still be a good idea to shorten it? voxsartoria; unfortunately this fits alot better than all RTW garments I've tried; most fit me like a sack. I wear a child's sized polo in American sizes or a small in HK sizes due to length =/ I think if I could afford stylish RTW garments I would still defer to MTM simply to get a really short suit with the proper chest/shoulder/waist measurements.
 

nbutter

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i think the jacket looks great.

the pants, i'd like to see a bit slimmer at the bottom.
 

Eck

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I would lower the button stance by about an inch and shorten the jacket a bit. Judging from the photos this should be fine. And if you are worrying about height problems another plus why you should shorten the jacket a bit. In pictures 5 and 6 I get the impression that the armholes don't fit you very well. Does it feel a bit tight at the front of the scye (in your arm pit) and a bit loose at the back of it?
 

teddieriley

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Great looking suit. I couldn't provide any more detailed comments than the guys above. I would say, slimmer pants would improve the overall look (and shortening them up a bit). Style wise, cuffs might be a good choice, but that's your call.

For clarification. where is the 2nd button on a 2 button (or 3 roll 2 for that matter) suppose to be positioned? I always hear comments for MTM critique threads that they should be lowered - but to what line of reference?

I know old school Oxxford's have pretty low button stances, which I really don't like the look of.
 

Fishball

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You would not take in 2 inches from each size of your waist, it will make the jacket unwearable. The waist suppression of the jacket is good. May be take in 2 inches of the real waist is a good idea!


In gernal, it look good on you. The front may be little bit too long, but it is still ok.
The pants back is too full.
 

FreedBird

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Fantastic! This looks really good. I agree with 3 criticisms here and offer one of my own, but really this suit looks very nice.

I agree pants could be a little slimmer for such a slim suit

The hacking pockets make your hips and gut look wider. I know this a bit of an asian style, but I am opposed to it.

Sleeve pitch could be moved forward a bit, but its not that bad.

Some thing that nobody else has mentioned is the quarters of the jacket, I feel the are to closed and have a funny curved shape to them. I know this is a bit of an asian style thing, but I feel it also makes your waist look bigger, especially with the hacking pockets.
 

voxsartoria

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First, I neglected to say what a brave and interesting first post this is.

Here are two pics, the one on the left your original, the one on the left Photoshopped to do just three things: lower the button stance, lower and narrow the hip pocket flaps (actually, I wouldn't make then quite so narrow in real life, but I would lower them with the button stance), and narrow the trousers:



Everything else, including you, unchanged.

- B
 

MikeF

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Clearly a WW Chan. Overall excellent fit.
 

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