Suit critique please!

[xdahlia]

Hi everyone,

I got this suit at a good price, but realize there are a few issues with it:

1. Are these issues fixable by a tailor?
   
2. And if so, what specifically?

Here are the problems I see:

• There is some major bunching of the fabric at the armpits. Is this fixable?
  
• Conversely the sleeves are quite wrinkly. Is this caused by the bunching or something else?
  
• The jacket back is saggy. Not sure if this has to do with back neck muscles or balance / posture
  
• The jacket is bit long, perhaps shorten by 1 inch?
  
• The pants are too slim fitting. There is a tiny bit of extra fabric in the pants, so could squeeze 1 inch total from the pants circumference (not sure if that's a good idea).
  
• The pants are too long, specially with the narrow opening. Shortening it should improve things.
  
• The drap of the pants are terrible. Could this be improved (apart from the 2 ideas above) by ironing in crease lines? Would this look funny on such slim pants? Or would it actually help the pants look wider from the side?

A few Notes:

• Sleeves are just folded in for now.
  
• Normally it might be easier to find another suit. But being 5'4" and sized 34XS, it is quite a challenge (not to mention on a budget). If anyone knows where to find RTW 34S suits or EU 44S in the US would be appreciated (skip boys dept please, I'm 33).
  
• I am shopping around for a proper balmoral instead of the squared toe.

Bonus Round: Is this suit appropriate for interview? (don't worry, will pair it with light blue shirt and tie) Are the pants too slim?

Thanks for playing! And thanks in advance for all your help

 

[dbc]

It is nearly impossible to fix adjust jacket length. It'll screw up a lot of things i.e.: Buttoning point, etc.

 

[harry2quinn]

Originally Posted by dbc

It is nearly impossible to fix adjust jacket length. It'll screw up a lot of things i.e.: Buttoning point, etc.
Sure - but only if dramatic, I think jacket width is probably a little long but not ridiculous. Tried to write the following without reading your own description so I wouldn't be biased... Honestly the biggest issue I see is the back of the jacket - it's a wreck. It's too big in the back, I think. If you were to try to take that in, you need to take in the front as well so as not to throw off the seam; and that will result in strong waist suppression - whether this is too much suppression is for a more experienced eye than mine. The pants are similarly too baggy in the back - but I imagine this will be much easier to fix. Same with the sleeves, though it's hard to tell if the armholes are similarly too large - this last, if true, will probably make this a lost cause. However, considering your size, many of the above issues are not surprising - they are driven by the suit being a bit too big. Shoulder's probably a bit too wide as well - but only noticeable to the eyes of people on SF, I think. Pants are too long - but that's obviously pretty easy. I don't have much experience with 34R in Men's Clothing - there are probably a few SW&D brands that are more appropriate. I have a coworker who's probably a 34, and he mentioned BoO. I think it's fine for interviews, depending on the color - seems like charcoal. Jetted pockets probably a very small nitpick. Update from reading your description - bunch at the armpits may be a sign of armholes being too large - see above. If the pants feel slim fit, it might just be at one part of your legs - maybe the calves from the picture. Somethings definitely off about the thigh/closer to the seat of your pants, which I attributed to being too big - if the pants are too slim, maybe it's an issue with the rise instead, can't tell.

 

[Master-Classter]

Jimmy Au's if you're West Coast.

not sure your price/quality level, but H&M does a size 34 suit.

otherwise you're a good candidate for MTM...

 

[CYstyle]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

Jimmy Au's if you're West Coast.

not sure your price/quality level, but H&M does a size 34 suit.

otherwise you're a good candidate for MTM...

+1

that jacket is too big. save up money and go mtm or bespoke.

 

[Master-Classter]

HUGO (boss) does a size 34, Z-Zegna drop 8 in a 36s might work too, Collezioni Metropolitan in 36s could work... there are options, but you'll have to really hunt around. as for what you have, I don't think the fit's that bad, just needs a little work. shoulders are acceptable but maybe a tad wide, just clean up the back. I like the lower button stance but the prob is the jacket is maybe on the longer side and at your height that's not good. here you go - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=245131

 

[xdahlia]

Originally Posted by dbc

It is nearly impossible to fix adjust jacket length. It'll screw up a lot of things i.e.: Buttoning point, etc.
What if only an inch is taken from the bottom of the jacket? Will it look off?

 

[xdahlia]

Originally Posted by harry2quinn

... I have a coworker who's probably a 34, and he mentioned BoO.


Thanks for the comments.

What is BoO?

 

[xdahlia]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

Jimmy Au's if you're West Coast.

not sure your price/quality level, but H&M does a size 34 suit.

otherwise you're a good candidate for MTM...

Yah, I've heard good things about them. Am trying to exhaust my options via RTW before going the MTM / bespoke route.

I tried on a 34 at H&M. The jacket is slightly narrow, but the real issue was the pants, which is even skinnier than the one above.

 

[xdahlia]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

HUGO (boss) does a size 34,
Z-Zegna drop 8 in a 36s might work too,
Collezioni Metropolitan in 36s could work...

there are options, but you'll have to really hunt around.


as for what you have, I don't think the fit's that bad, just needs a little work. shoulders are acceptable but maybe a tad wide, just clean up the back. I like the lower button stance but the prob is the jacket is maybe on the longer side and at your height that's not good.


here you go - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=245131

Hey thanks for the suggestions.

I just tried Hugo's US website. They only carry 36. Their UK one, however, carries EU 44 but they don't ship international.

Anyone know of any service for shipping items from UK? In Singapore there was something called vPost that gave you an address in the US that you could mail things to, and they would deliver the items to you in Singapore at a fee. Quite convenient. I'm now in the US btw.

I've been trying to locate the above mentioned brands online. It seems that department stores don't stock 34s either. Is this more of a special order kind of deal?

 

[Maccimus]

Don't know where to start. I suggest you to refund it.

 

[Master-Classter]

I wouldn't bother with international shipping, especially for Boss stuff. Call up Jimmy Au's if your West Coast, or if you're more East there's a shop here in Toronto, Canada called Browns (a short man's world) and they also specialize in the same thing. It's the same prices as regular, but basically they've done special MTM version orders, so from your side it's like OTR. Everything is proportional and correct. Know your measurements, check the return policies, and try some orders.

otherwise try online retailers like Yoox, or those sort of places. You might find slim 36s's that could work. I feel your pain though.

If you are around a 16.5 shoulder and 36-37 inch chest, then the above rec's might work for you.

 

[harry2quinn]

Originally Posted by xdahlia

Thanks for the comments.

What is BoO?

Band of Outsiders.

 

[tgt465]

Originally Posted by xdahlia

What if only an inch is taken from the bottom of the jacket? Will it look off?

I think taking an inch off the bottom of this particular jacket would be okay without messing things up, and would help it look somewhat better on you. But this won't address the other issues previously mentioned in the thread. Also I understand this isn't an especially easy alteration to do (although certainly not the most difficult either).

 

[xdahlia]

Originally Posted by harry2quinn

Band of Outsiders.
Ah, thanks