Suit concepts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HitMan009, Nov 23, 2004.

  1. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    Thanks. Also, could you provide specs on the fabric, number, grain, etc?

    That is a fantastic price for MTM.
     


  2. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    Yes, That is what I meant.  THe Oxxford is a great representative but I would change the angle just a few degrees more so as if you drew a straight line from the top edge on the lapel all the way to the shoulder, it would just miss the scye, probably by no more then 1/4".  The Oxxford appears to hit exactly at the scye.  I would only narrow the lapels a bit, maybe no more then 1/4".  I also would like the points to be more pointed then round.
     


  3. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Having trouble posting a picture, but a "semi-peaked lapel" is one with a slightly more horizontal gorge and a shorter point on the peak. I think peaked lapels can look too broad/dramatic at times, so this is a compromise.
     


  4. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    Very nice suit. If I only I could be that dapper. I had thought that was a picture from the 60s. That's it's from '38 shows just how enduring a sharp suit is.
     


  5. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    A suit with peaked lapels: no way it could be worn without a tie and look good, right?
     


  6. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    (Phil @ 23 Nov. 2004, 08:58) RL MTM, as well as Oxxford
    You mean this one? "Downtown Brown" Two button Salvatore model with peak lapels, soft shoulder and gentle waist suppression. Depicted in a chocolate brown with alternating double and single pinstripes. Oxxford Super 140s white shirt with blue stripes worn with Oxxford silk tie decorated with white "rice" pattern. [​IMG]
    That is a very very different animal from the suit that J. posted. The Oxxford has a more built up and extended shoulder and the cut throught the chest is wider. On J.'s image, the shoulder is much narrower, with very very little padding with a slight "peak"/rope. The chest is close to the body,and the lapels have a larger "belly". Very Very different.
     


  7. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    Virulent bacteriophage and type species of the genus T4-Like Phages, in the family MYOVIRIDAE, infects E. coli and is the best known of the T-even phages. Its virion contains linear double-stranded DNA, terminally redundant and circularly permuted....

    sorry
     


  8. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Very good [​IMG] .
     


  9. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    John April - sure you can wear a peak lapel suit with no tie, I do it all the time. I think it looks just fine. In fact, I often wear my peak lapel suit jackets with jeans, but thats a whole different story altogether.

    Alexis - Im sorry, I dont have the foggiest clue as to the fabric code or number. I look through the books, pick one I like, and go from there. Yes, its a good price for Oxxford MTM. The reason being was that particular suit was bought during "triple points" time at Saks, which basically shaved about $800.00 off the price of the suit.
     


  10. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    If you have the personailty it will work for you, not against you. Playing with contrast is fun [​IMG]
     


  11. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    The picture of the old guy in the awesome suit has surfaced again. I really really like it. It's fitted so perfectly, and the shoulders are a perfect shape... everything about it I really like except for the angle/shape of the lapels. While I would certainly not turn it down because of this detail, it would be 100% perfect if they were a bit narrower and angled more vertically.
     


  12. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    I don't think it's fitted that well. Anyone who's in shape could wear a 4 size too small suit and look like that imo. Look at the pulling of the fabric...

    The guy in the Oxxford looks much better to me.
     


  13. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I agree with truthhurts, the fit is not perfect. There was another picture posted of him wearing a suit that looked Chaplinesque in its tightness. This one pulls in certain places, and it was suggested earlier that it may be unvented, exacerbating the problem. However, in fairness to the man (and his tailor), no suit can be expected to look its best when in descendre un escalier pose.
     


  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    The chest and shoulders are a perfect fit. People nowadays consider that look "small" or tight because now, people are used to the loose, ill fitting clothes.

    The pulling that you are seeing at the waist is usually seen in some Neapolitan bespoke clothing. That is a pleat to accomodate movement and ease.

    The Oxxford's shoulders are too big.
     


  15. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    There are so many defects in the Oxxford example, that I will not lose time to enumarate them.
     


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