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Suit concepts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HitMan009, Nov 23, 2004.

  1. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    OK,

    It is time now to talk about suiting styles that is less common but have much more flair. I think this thread will be out of style soon since even BR is stealing some of these ideas but I will try anyways. I know many on this board love the SB with peak lapel suit. I am one of those too. With my conservative suiting almost complete, I think I am about to commission a more stylish suit apart from the high gorge notch lapel that forms the staple for suiting. My thoughts on creating a peak lapel SB suit requires the following to look right in my eyes:
    1) relatively high gorge but closer to the high part
    2) 2 button
    3) side vents
    4) hacking pockets
    5) breast pocket totally parallel to the ground, slightly covered by lapel
    6) average waist supression but along the lines of more just a tad above the natural waist
    7) flared skirt where bottom button is not covered at all when worn.(Is there a more techincal term for this) but skirt is close to body
    8) gently sloping shoulders extended by 1/8" to 1/4" over natural shoulders.

    Please remark on my points, pointing out flaws if necessary, more suggestions, etc....

    What are your thoughts on your concept suits that are within stylish range and not fashion?
     
  2. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Off the top of my head, the first thing I would say is that a single breased peak label suit does not have to be only 2 button. I have several that are 3 button, duel vented. They all roll to the second button, but its clear they are 3 button suits. I think they look great. One is the Oxxford Salvatore model, which I think you can view on their website, and the rest are Polo MTM.
     
  3. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Please, please, let me vicariously live through your commission. I have wanted this suit since I saw it, and posted it a few times on the forum: [​IMG] It sounds almost exactly like what you are describing, aside from the hacking pockets, and that it is a 3 roll 2. Plus Sir Samuel has his bottom button done up, which I wouldn't do.
     
  4. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    That's a smart look (as pictured above). Who does something like that?
     
  5. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    RL MTM, as well as Oxxford
     
  6. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    You mean this one? "Downtown Brown" Two button Salvatore model with peak lapels, soft shoulder and gentle waist suppression. Depicted in a chocolate brown with alternating double and single pinstripes. Oxxford Super 140s white shirt with blue stripes worn with Oxxford silk tie decorated with white "rice" pattern. [​IMG]
     
  7. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    j, where'd you find the picture? Sharp suit indeed. A tailor recently talked me down to 2 buttons on a semi-peaked lapel suit. It would be nice to have a wealth of these photographs on-line to send.
     
  8. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    Oxxford's models on their site. Here's a link: http://www.oxxfordclothes.com/oxxadv.asp
     
  9. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Alexis, yes that is the one.  I have the 3 button version however.

    What is a semi-peaked lapel suit exactly??
     
  10. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    Phil,

    Can you provide a list of specs on that suit that could be communicated to an Oxxford tailor?

    Price range?

    Thanx.
     
  11. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    I scanned it a while ago. Here's the caption with the reference:

     
  12. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    The picture of Sir Samuel is definitely something that inspired me to commission my next suit with peaked lapels. I like the Oxxford model but do prefer the peaks with be pointed upwards a bit more. The Salvatore model has a more widening type peaked lapel. I believe a peaked lapel with the peaks point more north creates a truly stunning look that is very elongating to the wearer.

    Thoughts, thoughts, any more ideas for a more stylish, less formal suit?
     
  13. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    I saw a Dolce Gabbana sportcoat with a "northerly" peak lapel but it was rounded at the tip. It looked strange and then cool and then strange again.
     
  14. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Alexis-

    Well, concerning the Oxxford 3 button peak lapel suit I own, this is what I specified:

    -solid colored dark navy blue, part wool, part cashmere
    -3 button, rolls to the second button
    -half lined
    -duel vents
    -pants have single pleat
    -cuffs are 1.75 inches

    Thats what I like in a suit like that, but feel free to insert your own specs.

    Price was $2850, it was Oxxford MTM at Saks in NYC.
     
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    As far as the width of the lapels, I disagree with you Hitman. In my mind you are thinking of peaks that I often see by edgier designers. The peaks look too small and insignificant for me like this. Most people, myself included, love peak lapel single breasted suits because those peaks give the illusion of shoulder width without the padding that shoulder pads have. The peaks have to subtly aim at the shoulders, not at your ears, to complete the illusion.
     
  16. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    Thanks. Also, could you provide specs on the fabric, number, grain, etc?

    That is a fantastic price for MTM.
     
  17. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    Yes, That is what I meant.  THe Oxxford is a great representative but I would change the angle just a few degrees more so as if you drew a straight line from the top edge on the lapel all the way to the shoulder, it would just miss the scye, probably by no more then 1/4".  The Oxxford appears to hit exactly at the scye.  I would only narrow the lapels a bit, maybe no more then 1/4".  I also would like the points to be more pointed then round.
     
  18. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Having trouble posting a picture, but a "semi-peaked lapel" is one with a slightly more horizontal gorge and a shorter point on the peak. I think peaked lapels can look too broad/dramatic at times, so this is a compromise.
     
  19. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    Very nice suit. If I only I could be that dapper. I had thought that was a picture from the 60s. That's it's from '38 shows just how enduring a sharp suit is.
     
  20. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    A suit with peaked lapels: no way it could be worn without a tie and look good, right?
     

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