Suit-buying guide for the clueless

[Concordia]

Nothing you all don't know, but a good one-pager to pass on. [If the link doesn't go right to the correct post, it's the one by John Roberson.]

https://www.quora.com/What-are-some-good-tips-for-buying-mens-suits

For text only (no pics):

John Roberson, Stock Trader, Financial Problem Solver
Updated Apr 5 · Upvoted by Steve Waddington, CEO, Director, CIO, Engineering Manager.

What Makes A Great Suit?

As a teenager I believed that to acquire a great suit one enters the elevator at Saks, hits floor six, locates the scariest price tag, and checks out at the register.

This is a recipe for abject failure!

It is far too easy to look like a schlub in even an $8,000 suit. It is just as easy to turn heads in a normally-priced option. This is the difference between the price of something and the value of it.

In a great suit, the man does the talking. In a waste of money, the suit does.


I’m not taking political cheap shots here. In fact, I’ve written an answer arguing that “suit semiotics” is a brilliant element of his branding. It is nonetheless a fact that Donald Trump spends many thousands of dollars on suits… that look terrible on him.

The key to a great suit is fit. The #1 determinant of sartorial success is not the clothing you bring to the register. It’s your tailor.

You can select a suit off the rack that already fits your body well, then trust the alterations to make it sing. You can send off your measurements for some made-to-measure menswear. You can even meet with a tailor or cutter to build a mannequin of your body and shape a garment just for you. (NB: the word “bespoke” is now grossly overused.)

A Simple Formula

Even a perfectly-fitting suit can be hideous. Too often, a man intending to invest in quality clothing instead turns his suit into an opportunity for aesthetic shouting. Loud, loud pinstripes. Loud, loud cufflinks. I came to hear the man, but his voice is drowned out by all the noise.

Garishness is not taste. Flashiness is not status.


The typical man needs a suit for weddings, funerals, and perhaps interviews. One suit can handle all three as readily as it can meet the demands of international espionage. Ask for the following:

Charcoal grey. Navy is great for business, but bad for a funeral.
Worsted wool. Nothing too fine (thin), such as Super 150s.
Two button. Three buttons are more formal, so not as versatile.
Notch lapel. Peak lapels are great, but again, less versatile.
Double vented. Or single vented. Just make sure it’s vented.
Completing The Look

One excellent suit can serve in a variety of looks. All you have to do is change the pieces underneath.

Shirts begin with solid white and blue. Your tailor will ensure that the cuff barely peeks out from under your jacket. No pockets allowed! I prefer a classic collar, but a spread is fine. For some body types it’s even an asset. If you have French cuffs, consider a simple silk knot (more versatile) instead of cufflinks (more forward).


Ties serve as a major status symbol in some professions, with Hermes at the top. (Personally I like Tom Ford and Kiton.) My ideal is 3 1/4″ width, as with jacket lapels. Master an asymmetrical knot, either the four-in-hand or half-Windsor (slightly bigger), unless your body type (or super-spread collar) requires a big Windsor knot. Don’t obsess over the dimple. Do practice appropriate tie length: the tip should just touch the top of the belt.

On material, color, and pattern: the standard is great silk. Cotton/linen are casual. Matte and glossy are both fine, but avoid shiny. Neutrals (gray, blue) and darker hues (green, burgundy) are more serious. Solid is more serious, as are regimental stripes and geometric patterns. Novelty patterns (sailboats) and lighter shades are fine for business but bad for funerals. Ties with reading material (Tabasco) are in bad taste.


Shoes are worth paying up for, both for comfort and, with a decent cobbler, longevity. Simpler sends a level-headed message: black loafers, burgundy cap toe oxfords with quarter-brogueing, and plain dark brown derbies are all great. Avoid square toes. When sizing, remember to check width as closely as length.


Socks typically match shoes or slacks, but may match shirt or tie. I wear over-the-calf solids and replace annually. Belt should match the shoes. If your tailor puts side-tabs into your slacks, you won’t even need a belt.


The Finishing Touches

Which buttons do I button? Button when standing, unbutton when sitting. Never button the bottom button — it will ruin the fit of the jacket. The top button is optional with some variants of three-button jackets, called the 2½ and three-roll-two. Don shows us this look:


Tacking is sometimes left on a jacket, particularly at the vent(s) in back or on the sleeve cuffs. Snip it off with scissors, nail clippers, or a seam ripper.