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Suit brands for slim men: fully canvassed/half canvassed/fused - the definitive list

lovelux2010

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For SF members who are slimmer than average and/or shorter this is a work in progress of mens suits and specs. I have pulled together existing SF knowledge. This thread is made so you can just read the page 1 original post, all the information from subsequent posts will be found here so you dont have to go through all the pages taking your own notes.

We know Brioni, Kiton etc make lovely suits, but what about options for us who need a smaller cut (short fitting and/or slimmer cut)? There are so many brands none of us seem to know anything about (construction, maker) - Margiela, Costume National etc etc etc!

Please note - prices are approximate and information based on reading the thread may not be accurate. I hope members of SF can help add to the list. Many of us visit shops and view suits first hand to view construction, while some of you have “insider” knowledge, and some of us can gather information by looking at the label finder/secrets thread..

Please only add or take away information you are confident in, I will edit the thread periodically and this list will be forever evolving as brands change factories frequenty…

I realize I do not have a big selection of lines (i.e. Ermenegildo Zegna Milano, Roma versus Z Zegna etc) so lets work on this. Finally, this is not a place to discuss the merits of canvassed versus fused nor a place to debate fashion led brand versus classic suitmakers, its just a place where members can find out what they are buying in order to make informed decisions about
- fully canvased/half canvassed or fused?
- price range of line?
- maker of the suits? (i.e. Gucci made by Zegna)
- available in a short fitting?

AS OF September 15th 2010
Fully Canvassed
Armani Collezioni: E Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna Roma: boxier fit than milano
Ermenegildo Zegna Milano: slim fit
Emenegildo Zegna Su Misuro (M2M): £1300+
Canali: certain models are slim and do short fittings (the higher the model numbers the slimmer); £850+
Lanvin: £1300+ and do short fittings
Corneliani: £1400+ for slim fittings and do short fittings
RLBL: £1400+; by Caruso?
Dior Homme: £1500+; by Caruso? Generally are shorter cut suitable for shorter men
Gucci: £1400+; Ermenegildo Zegna made, fit slim with high armholes
Commes des Garcons
Brooks Brothers Black Fleece: by Caruso?
Tom Ford: £2500+; Ermenegildo Zegna
Hermes: Belvest?
Valentino
Paul Smith Mainline
Thom Browne: Oxxford,
Band of Outsiders: Greenfield,
*lots of info on ARMANI found construction per line found here:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=160299


SOMETIMES fully canvassed (depends on model)
Armani Black Label: £1500+


MAY be fully canvassed???? (need help to clarify)
Costume National
Jil Sander: made by Pal Zieri

Half canvassed
Prada: £1400+; Belvest were/are fully canvassed by i could not find fully canvassed suits at Prada during 2010 visit
Costume National: anyone know which lines are fully canvassed, which are half etc?
YSL Rauve Gauche: £1400+, fit nicely on shorter frame
Raf Simons?
Z Zegna: very slim cut, have short fittings £900+
Dries vN?
Calvin Klein Collection?
Paul Smith Byard
Marc Jacobs Collection
Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald: £400 up
Suit Supply RTW, GBP200-300 (US$320-480)
Reiss, GBP300-400 (US$480-640)
Austin Reed, GBP300-400 (US$480-640)

Fused


Unknown: (need info on pricing, short fitting, maker, etc)
Kris van Assche
Marc Jacobs
Baleniaga
Raf Simons
Givenchy
Margiela
Giorgio Armani
Viktor and Rolf
J. Lindenberg
APC
Galliano
Ozwald Boateng
Etro
Theory
Lad Musician

(WILL MOVE UP TO APPROPRIATE CATEGORIES WHEN INFO COMES IN..)
 

zerostyle

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How about the ehaberdasher Benjamin suit? Fully canvased, $500, apparently supposed to be pretty slim. The rep told me it was close to an Isaia fit, but I don't know for sure.
 

lovelux2010

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did a quick SF search..looks like we would have to specify the line its from..i'm not familiar with their lines
 

hermes man

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as a fan of Giorgio Armani i am disappointed that they didt even make it in the list

despite being the best suit maker in the world

if you dont believe me go ahead and watch all those hollywood movies , they always mention "armani suit"
 

Master-Classter

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lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by Master-Classter
noble effort... but SEARCH goddamit!

At least for the purposes of a subset of slim guys, the "short" ones, there have been a million threads about it, including one I started that's somewhat related to this. All at least mention some suit brands that work for slim guys.
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=168432
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=139456
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=139456



i realize the sllim/short suits have been covered before, but the purpose of this thread is for us to know the price range and more importantly the structure (canvassed vs fused) of the suits we are considering. also, this thread is more for men considering quality garments, so avoiding cheap brands etc
the posts you link to just talk about "fit" but there is no comprehensive thread that factors in the quality of these slim/short suits..

hence the new post. anyways thanks for the links they are helpful
 

Svenn

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Originally Posted by lovelux2010
and more importantly the structure (canvassed vs fused) of the suits we are considering.

My fused suit looks, feels, and fits better than my full-canvassed bespoke one... don't buy into the internet hype that full-canvassing is always superior... it usually is, but not always.
 

hermes man

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hello guys i just bought a Giorgio Armani black label suit how do i know if its a canvassed,half canvassed , fused , or quarter fused any way to check and verify ?
 

Mountains

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I bought a Calvin Klein Collection suit a few weeks back. The line fits relatively slim, retails around $1000-1400, and I believe it's half-canvassed.
 

lovelux2010

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lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by Mountains
I bought a Calvin Klein Collection suit a few weeks back. The line fits relatively slim, retails around $1000-1400, and I believe it's half-canvassed.

added to the list under half canvassed with a "?" until someone can clarify
 

lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by Svenn
My fused suit looks, feels, and fits better than my full-canvassed bespoke one... don't buy into the internet hype that full-canvassing is always superior... it usually is, but not always.


not a forum to discuss whats better...
just a place where people can find out what they buy as many online retailers do not specify. if you like glued suits all good.
 

lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by hermes man
as a fan of Giorgio Armani i am disappointed that they didt even make it in the list

despite being the best suit maker in the world

if you dont believe me go ahead and watch all those hollywood movies , they always mention "armani suit"



giorgio armani now added to the list, can you clarify how your suits are constucted?

as far as armani being the best suits, this is really just a forum so people know the price range of slim fit suits for men, whether the suits are canvassed or half canvassed or fused, and who makes the suits (manufacter, location of factory)..that way we can make the most informed purchase decision. this is not a place to discuss which suit is best.

thanks
 

lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by zerostyle
How about the ehaberdasher Benjamin suit? Fully canvased, $500, apparently supposed to be pretty slim. The rep told me it was close to an Isaia fit, but I don't know for sure.

hello..this is meant to be for suits in the $800+ price range..so we're not going to cover h&m, topman, etc

come on SF need your help to fill tons of blanks above, i'm searchign through forums on info like "who makes hermes/mj/dries etc suits" buts tons of info is from 2007 or so..

hermes still belvest? mj? etc?
 

jeff13007

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Originally Posted by lovelux2010
hello..this is meant to be for suits in the $800+ price range..so we're not going to cover h&m, topman, etc come on SF need your help to fill tons of blanks above, i'm searchign through forums on info like "who makes hermes/mj/dries etc suits" buts tons of info is from 2007 or so.. hermes still belvest? mj? etc?
Where did you get the $800 number from? many suits on that list are in the 2k range. As for the makers just read the HOF labels thread, it shows you how to tell which maker made the suit.
 

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