Suit and Sportcoat Fit Pictures: Am I a 39L or what?

[bluemagic]

As I said last night, I really want to buy a solid navy suit in my size, which I thought was 38R. I went to NYC for a few hours today to check some things out.

I first went to Madison Avenue, starting at J. Press. I first tried on a navy blazer. Tom suggested 39L (a surprise to me) after some trying on, but after consulting with the tailor, said that the house cut did not suit me. I believe there were issues with the button stance among other things. He suggested that 39MediumLong, perhaps at Paul Stuart, might be better, though Paul Stuart's price range would be more of an investment.

I didn't go to Paul Stuart. Instead, I dropped by Brooks Brothers at 346. The salesman on the 4th floor said that the 39L Fitzgerald fit. They didn't have solid navy in 39L, however. I went down to the 3rd floor to try on Black Fleece; BB2 (40 in the body) seemed to fit fairly well. I asked about the length; the salesman said that the technical answer was that it was a little too short, but implied that there is a variation of interpretations to such questions; a far cry from J. Press' absolute truth/fit. The Black Fleece suit certainly felt very nice, but even at 1/2 off it is really too expensive for me.

I also went to Soho to look for some casual wear or shirts, but didn't buy anything there either. I was planning on getting something from Uniqlo or Muji, but I found something wrong with everything. Uniqlo had a $130 navy blazer, but I couldn't stand the fused stiffness. I was thinking of buying one of their light blue oxford cloth button downs, and the fit was ok in Small for me, but the color was pastel, not icy blue, and looked really bad on me. Now that I've read Color for Men and am a believer, the dual categories of fit problems and color problems make it very hard to buy something. This is a good thing, since I am less likely to buy unloved items. This also explains why I didn't buy anything (there wasn't anything good anyways) at the Daffy's or Filene's Basement I went to.

A summary without the narrative:

1. How does excess weight affect sizing? If I lost some weight (I am currently not overweight, but I have some fat around the midsection, embarassingly), would I become a 38R?

2. I am more aware than ever of the consequences of the different approaches of The Rules (Mantonism, I suppose) and relativism (SoCalism, I guess).

3. I would really like something canvassed, and wish I had enough money to buy bespoke. But I don't.

I am thinking of posting pictures of me in the two articles of tailored clothing I have, both bought pre-SF, that I had thought fit me. One is a Hickey Freeman 38R suit; the other is a Nick Hilton 39R sportcoat.

Tomorrow I will go to Nick Hilton's store and see if his RTW cut fits me or not.

There's so much involved in really buying clothes! I don't want anything fancy; I would be content with a "uniform" of solid navy suit+icy blue button down/striped "mafoofan" button down+burgundy captoes for the highest level of formality, navy blazer+same shirts+wool/cotton pants/loafers for the next level down, and same shirts+1 pair of selvedge jeans+loafers for the next level down. But it's hard to find the right items for each...

EDIT: Pictures below.

 

[Reborn]

Don't skip on Paul Stuart, it's at least worth a walk into and the effort to try some stuff on, especially since you were right next door! For my first suit I tried on tons of makers and Paul Stuart was by far the best and well worth the little bit of extra I spent on it. I was in Paul Stuart today and fell in love with a Navy suit in their Phineas line. Must resist spending...

 

[bluemagic]

I may make a trip again later this week. I also forgot to check out the Hickey Style and Gant stores. I think I should retitle this thread THOM BROWNE DISCUSSION to get more replies.

 

[a tailor]

can we see your two suits?

 

[bigbris1]

To address your weight loss query, it may just be a matter of looking for a slimmer cut afterward, especially if the bulk of the weight lost is from the midsection.

I used to fit most OTR 46L suits very well, but after recent weight loss I'm teetering between the broader-shouldered 44L's & having my current suit jackets taken in 4" in the waist.

 

[TheFoo]

It's really hard to answer your question about weight and sizing since each individual varies differently. But that being said, everyone fluctuates some; I tend to put on weight around me waist and hips exclusively. If you are currently average in build, I imagine your chest and shoulders aren't likely to change much even if you slim down around your waist and stomach.

 

[Taxler]

Originally Posted by Reborn

Don't skip on Paul Stuart, it's at least worth a walk into and the effort to try some stuff on, especially since you were right next door! For my first suit I tried on tons of makers and Paul Stuart was by far the best and well worth the little bit of extra I spent on it. I was in Paul Stuart today and fell in love with a Navy suit in their Phineas line. Must resist spending...

Too many people assume PS is unaffordable; they do sell plenty of reasonably priced stuff.

Is the new Phineas Boutique open yet?

 

[Reborn]

Originally Posted by Taxler

Is the new Phineas Boutique open yet?

No.

The Phineas I was handling today was around $1300 with the Paul Model I've previously purchased being right at 1000 after tax.

 

[bluemagic]

My Hickey Freeman 38R Suit. I haven't worn this in a while. I'm standing awkwardly straight because it probably shows fit better.

Holy ****, why are the sleeves so wrinkled-looking? Was it a care problem, or a suit problem? It really is amazing what pictures show.

You can also see why it would be much better for me to wear navy.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Honestly, I'd like to see you in the Black Fleece suit. I know it isn't technically correct, but I think it is a good, conservative, young look, and something like the HF suit really doesn't do much for you and your personality. They have a nice blue hopsack weave at BB, if I recall correctly, and the conservative nature of the fabric would make up for the slightly non-conservative cut. Too bad it is too expensive. I find the styling on them to be much less eyecatching, and much more normal than the PS Phineas Cole stuff.

 

[bluemagic]

Here is the label:

What is the canvassing status on the suit, and who was it made by? It says "Union Made in the U.S.A." on the edge.

I look so lame in the above photos.

There something about standing very straight that makes me uncomfortable.

 

[bluemagic]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Honestly, I'd like to see you in the Black Fleece suit. I know it isn't technically correct, but I think it is a good, conservative, young look, and something like the HF suit really doesn't do much for you and your personality. They have a nice blue hopsack weave at BB, if I recall correctly, and the conservative nature of the fabric would make up for the slightly non-conservative cut. Too bad it is too expensive. I find the styling on them to be much less eyecatching, and much more normal than the PS Phineas Cole stuff.

Thanks. It's the option of last resort if I really cannot find anything else suitable.

 

[bluemagic]

39R Nick Hilton sportcoat:

 

[unpainted huffheinz]

That 38 R Hickey Freeman is the right length, but maybe even a little large. I would suggest a trip to Ralph Lauren and ask about the Bleecker line, and also a trip to the Hickey Freeman shop to check out the hickey line. Both of these are aimed at a younger audience while retaining some conservative elements. Both are much cheaper than Phineas or Black Fleece.

 

[Smahatma]

Length is fine, but they both look too large, especially the shoulder width. Also I ask why a person of such youth would choose to dress in dreadfully conservative manner?