Suit and Shirt Fit Advice Needed

[ziggyosk]

Ok, I have 2 Hickey Freeman Madison model suits that i've had for a few months now, and I just purchased 2 more. all of them a 42L. My 2 new ones I just had altered by my tailor in Hartford CT, his name is Gus Fas. When I went there I told him that I wanted to have some cuff showing on my sleeves(I read in Dressing the Man depending on your height you can have 1/2-1 inch of cuff showing)

He altered the suits and I went back to try them on. Of course there was really no cuff showing when I tried them on, but he was very adiment that the sleeve length was perfect and any shorter would throw the whole suit out of proportion. He said my shirts that i've been wearing are too short. Right now I'm a 35 sleeve but he measured me 35.5, so he said I should be wearing a size 36 sleeve. I took them home, to try them with some shirts, and he said If i'm not happy he will shorten the sleeves.

I wanted to post some pictures of myself in the shirts with one of my new suits to see what everone thinks. I want some cuff to be showing especially when I wear French Cuff shirts.

I want to know if my suit sleeves are too long or my shirt sleeves not long enough or BOTH?
Also tell me if you think my suit should be taken in a little more on the sides, it's kind of roomy.


Me in a Nordstrom 16/35 tailor-fit shirt with Barrel cuffs:

Same shirt arms up:

Same shirt, Jacket on:

Same, arms up:

Different shirt now, Nordstrom MTM 16/35 Slim fit(more than the tailored-fit) with french cuffs. Also excuse the appearance of this shirt as I did not have time to iron it yet so it is very wrinkled.

Same shirt, Arms up:

Same shirt and same jacket:

Arms up:

Again my tailor is adamant that the sleeve length on the jacket is right, but as you can see there is no cuff showing.

Am I right style wise to want some cuff?
Should my jacket sleeves be shortened or should my sleeve length be increased or Both?
And should I get the sides of the jacket taken in a little more?


I really appreciate everyone's help as I am still a noob. I have been driving myself crazy with this and again I appreciated everyone's help.

 

[penguin vic]

IMO -

Sleeves on the first shirt are fine. Second shirt - sleeves are a touch short. I'd say jacket sleeves are fine.

Other things can affect 'showing cuff' - e.g. how high the armholes on your shirt / jacket are.

I wouldn't worry too much. I'd guess that you rarely stand motionless with arms by your side. Wear the suits for a while before assessing if there's an issue with the suit sleeve length (I don't think there is).

Suit looks good by the way. I wouldn't worry too much about the waist.

 

[vitaminc]

First shirt okay.

Suit sleeves a bit too long (1/4-1/2" less)

2nd shirt sleeves too short (1/2-1" longer)

 

[Siggy]

I agree, 1st shirt ok, 2nd too short.

Suit sleeves could be shortened a little, 1/4 to 1/2 inch depending on the look once you make sure your shirt sleeve length is correct.

 

[beny]

looks like the right sleeve on the suit is slightly longer than the left? i think the left sleeve on the suit seems fine, both shirt sleeves are a tad too short.

 

[crpz32]

Originally Posted by beny

looks like the right sleeve on the suit is slightly longer than the left? i think the left sleeve on the suit seems fine, both shirt sleeves are a tad too short.

it's most likely his arms that are different length. My left arm is 1cm longer than my right.

 

[teddieriley]

first shirt, sleeves are just about right. your FCs are too short.

If I were you, I'd measure the jacket sleeve length against the first shirt. I prefer mine showing 1/2" to 3/4" inch. Who cares what your tailor says. He's working for you. If you want to shorten the sleeves by 1/2" he should do it. Otherwise, find another tailor.