Suit and shirt critique

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by danz24, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. brittain

    brittain Senior member

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    It seems to me that you're looking at some very substantial changes that need to be made here. Online MTM is extremely tricky, especially for a suit. Your best bet might be to find yourself a reputable MTM shop nearby, and have them take measurements and produce a suit for you. While it might cost more, it will be money well spent as compared to several iterations (and likely several ill-fitting suits) until you finally "get it right."

    I agree- this suit is so bad you are unlikely to achieve a decent fit after describing your changes in a email or on the phone.
     


  2. bowtielover

    bowtielover Senior member

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    The shirt looks great besides needing weashed and pressed, the jacket however looks a bit tight through the waist, you might want to let it out a bit also the sleeves are a touch long.
     


  3. danz24

    danz24 Well-Known Member

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    That should be about the right length for someone your height, maybe 0.5" shorter than the usual, but certainly not as short as it looks. Do you have a tape-measure? Can you measure the actual length of the jacket from the base of the collar to the hem? I can't see how that jacket can possibly be 27.5" long unless you're much taller than you say you are. Maybe they took the measurement to mean from the top of the collar or something...[​IMG]

    I measured it from the base of collar (where the shoulder seams meet) to the bottom of the jacket.
    It measures 28in. If i were taller it would be 5'5 rather than 5'4. Never knew a 0.5in difference in jacket length could have such as dramatic effect.

    btw, how do I show in the measurements form that I want a high armhole (do make biceps bigger, chest larger etc..)?
    And what specifically needs to be done to fix my trousers, i'm having trouble deciding what to put for adjustments.
     


  4. biasedcut

    biasedcut Member

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    I don't think you've stated from whom you've purchased the suit, but even if it's an online company, I think with most of them you should be able to give them subjective feedback via phone/email (ie, not just through measurements). If you aren't sure how to raise the suit armholes, you should just be able to tell them "raise the armholes".

    For that matter, you've taken some pretty detailed pics here - why not try emailing them to the company and getting their take?

    Also, agreed that the shirt fits pretty well. The armholes don't look too tight, but it's kind of personal preference on how much freedom you want up there. May just take some getting used to.
     


  5. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    I don't think you've stated from whom you've purchased the suit, but even if it's an online company, I think with most of them you should be able to give them subjective feedback via phone/email (ie, not just through measurements). If you aren't sure how to raise the suit armholes, you should just be able to tell them "raise the armholes".

    For that matter, you've taken some pretty detailed pics here - why not try emailing them to the company and getting their take?

    Also, agreed that the shirt fits pretty well. The armholes don't look too tight, but it's kind of personal preference on how much freedom you want up there. May just take some getting used to.


    My guess is TaT
     


  6. jessis

    jessis Senior member

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    Shirt needs some work in the arm hole region and sleeve may need to be a little longer. Agree the collar choice could have been different.

    Jacket waist is way off. Upper leg in the pants are too generous...
     


  7. sportin_life

    sportin_life Senior member

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    Jacket looks too tight and short.

    Pants look too baggy and there is something funky going on with them, although I can't quite place what it is. It looks like the thighs are 2x as wide as the hem.

    Don't shoot me for this comment, but I'm not sure if a slim fit suit is the best idea for you. From your measurements: 5'4" 140 lbs, 36.5 chest - 34.5 waist. I don't want to be discouraging but slim fit suits usually look best on those with athletic drops. With a 36.5 chest - 34.5 waist, a slim fitting suit accentuates what you don't want it to call attention to.
     


  8. CJG_NYC

    CJG_NYC Senior member

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    My guess is TaT

    I say Indochino
     


  9. Mr.K

    Mr.K Senior member

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    The jacket looks like it is too tight and not long enuogh. It looks strange with so much waist suppression. The shirt looks too big in my opinion for a slim fit. It needs to fit better in the waist area. Some darts would help with the extra material in the back area.
     


  10. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    I say Indochino

    Oh, yeah I forgot about them. So who made the suit?
     


  11. danz24

    danz24 Well-Known Member

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    Jacket looks too tight and short.

    Pants look too baggy and there is something funky going on with them, although I can't quite place what it is. It looks like the thighs are 2x as wide as the hem.

    Don't shoot me for this comment, but I'm not sure if a slim fit suit is the best idea for you. From your measurements: 5'4" 140 lbs, 36.5 chest - 34.5 waist. I don't want to be discouraging but slim fit suits usually look best on those with athletic drops. With a 36.5 chest - 34.5 waist, a slim fitting suit accentuates what you don't want it to call attention to.



    The suit was from indochno. Didn't want to mention this at the outset since people might start blaming the company right away.

    One important question I want to ask is, when I measure myself, what do I wear? Do I measure myself in just underwear? with an undershirt? undershirt and longsleeve? etc.. i realize the clothing I wear can affect measurement by as much as an inch.

    I just measured my chest and waist w/o a shirt leaving room for 1 finger. This should be as accurate as possible to my actual body measurements. I am a 39.25in chest and 32in waist. Chest was a bit hard because of my lats.

    When I measured originally we really tightened up the tape measure to hug my chest, and -1in as suggested by madetomeasureny. This could be the reason for the tight chest fit. The pants waist for the suit is too big for me, I can fit my fist in there! Probably why it looks off.
     


  12. danz24

    danz24 Well-Known Member

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    The jacket looks like it is too tight and not long enuogh. It looks strange with so much waist suppression. The shirt looks too big in my opinion for a slim fit. It needs to fit better in the waist area. Some darts would help with the extra material in the back area.

    What do you mean by this?
     


  13. sportin_life

    sportin_life Senior member

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    For darts, the poster was referring to your dress shirt.

    Tailors can place darts, which are basically permanent creases on the bottom part of the back of your dress shirt. This will prevent the material from bunching up in the back. It is very common in female clothing but not that common in men's shirts.

    Here is an example of a women's shirt darted front and back for the close fit:
    http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/i...entPage=family
     


  14. chrisb0109

    chrisb0109 Senior member

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    For darts, the poster was referring to your dress shirt.

    Tailors can place darts, which are basically permanent creases on the bottom part of the back of your dress shirt. This will prevent the material from bunching up in the back. It is very common in female clothing but not that common in men's shirts.

    Here is an example of a women's shirt darted front and back for the close fit:
    http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/i...entPage=family


    It is common in men's shirts which are intended to fit a properly shaped man. Brands aimed at the general business men don't benefit much from selling a shirt shaped how a body should be shaped.
     


  15. sportin_life

    sportin_life Senior member

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    I wish more brands would sell OTR shirts darted... It's a pain to bring them to the tailor hoping it will come out okay.
     


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