Suit and Jacket Fit?

[yitianjian]

Hey Styleforum,

Been a lurker for a while but looking for recommendations and advice on fit. Gradually dipping my toes into slightly more formal looks away from streetwear and shirt & slacks business casual. I'm not too familiar with suiting advice and I find there to be a lot of conflicting things on the internet.

As a bit of background, I'm mid 20's, work in tech, and really prefer to have a more modern/casual look, especially due to my social and work circles. I don't think I could pull off the traditional menswear as well as an older gentleman, and I think I would prefer to keep a more edgy/fashion look so that I don't exclude both engineers - who can be a bit stereotypical - as well as finance/consulting folks.

Please ignore the quarantine hair ?

I have this jacket from SuitSupply:

This I can still return (and also have in a beige color). I feel like the length is too long for a more casual sportcoat/blazer - if it was ~1" shorter I'd think its perfect. I'd probably also want to take in the waist a bit, I imagine.

This jacket from Theory:

This was tailored and closer to my ideal look - especially if it were to be dressed down (say with chinos or jeans + sneakers). Would this be judged in more traditional environments?

And this suit from Spier & Mackay:

This has also been tailored. I feel the shoulder is slightly off, and in general a bit fuller/wider than I'd prefer.

Do you guys have any recommendations?

I'm trying to pick up a couple more suits (grey, charcoal) and a couple more jackets (traditional navy blazer, stone/beige/grey) to round out my wardrobe.

Sorry for the poor photo lighting as well, I really wanted to try the SuSu jackets as they came in but it was close to nighttime.

Thank you!

 

[Crispyj]

Susu and Theory jackets are wayyyyyyy too short. Even if you prefer casual sport coats, it should still cover your butt.

The trousers you are wearing have low rise. Paired with the high buttoning stances, even with lower buttoning stance of the Spier and Mackay, your torso is elongated and it doesn't look good. The Theory jacket button is at your solar plexus?

Would be helpful to know the sizes of the garments you are wearing.

Also, if you aren't too keen on traditional classic menswear, you should try jackets like The Anthology Lazyman jacket. Wear that with chinos or trousers and you'll still look well dressed. Pictures taken from The Anthology.

 

[yitianjian]

As I understand it, mid rise is around ~1in below the belly button which is what I'm wearing? High rise would be around belly button or above/close to natural waist?

Even the SuSu jacket is too short? This was the other one that had definitely felt too long:

Jacket button is around solar plexus yes, I hadn't realized. Ideally around waist/belly button, correct?

I need to find some high waisted pants then to try. It seems that it helps remove the triangle of the shirt below the jacket, but wouldn't an overly long jacket still seem long?

The SuSu jackets are 40R Havanas, the S&M a 42 Contemporary, and the Theory one a 42R.

And thanks for the suggestion! I was planning to travel to Hong Kong this year too, will definitely give them a shot then. It's a bit hard to test a lot of stuff in Canada especially with these current times. The Lazyman looks really nice in pictures, I'm just worried that a more traditional finance meeting won't take it too well hence I'd probably want to see it in person.

Thanks again!

 

[compuccesory]

The SM Jacket is closest to where you should be in terms of length. Others are too short in all respects including buttoning point, rest of it doesn't look too bad, don't take in anything. Pants are also hemmed about 1" too short.

 

[compuccesory]

Also I think the gorge on the SM jacket is too high. The Susu is just about right.

 

[Crispyj]

Most finance guys can't even tell the difference between a derby and an Oxford. So I doubt they will care about the lazyman jacket vs traditional sport coat.

 

[comrade]

" I don't think I could pull off the traditional menswear as well as an older gentleman, and I think I would prefer to keep a more edgy/fashion look so that I don't exclude both engineers - who can be a bit stereotypical - as well as finance/consulting folks."

What are you excluding them from?
BTW, the only jacket that looks remotely decent is the one from Spier and Mackay.
The others look faddish and cheap.
From the photos you wear clothes well, but your choices need improvement.

 

[yitianjian]

Thanks for the comments then - will try to lean a bit more traditional.

There's a bit of stereotype especially in software engineering communities that people who dress up don't have technical skills or don't fit in. It's hard to be able to wear a sportcoat in a very tech-bro startup, but sometimes you need it to meet with clients/investors/etc. right after.