Suit Alteration

[Torre]

I have a slim runner's build at 5'10 and 145lbs and have had trouble finding OTR suits with an acceptable fit. An H&M 36R fits about perfectly. 38S comes close in the BR Heritage line and some of the monogram pieces. Z Zenga is close and I have had Boss Red Label suggested but have yet to try that. Any other suggestions anyone has in the $300-$700 range?

Aside from a few off the rack purchases I wanted to get more of a sense of what can be accomplished through alterations and the best methods to get the right fit.

1) Sleeve length - When should an alteration be simply brought up from the cuff and what would require alteration from the shoulder?

2) Taking in chest/waist - What are the advantages in taking in at the side seams vs the back center seam? Does this change in a double vs single vent jacket?

3) Chest/waist - When taking in ~2in from the side seams (an inch each) how would slight bat wings at the underarm seam be avoided? Should the tailor be nipping in the sleeve to compensate for the smaller hole created from taking in the chest?

4) Trousers - What would the maximum amount be to safely take in at the waist without destroying the shape?

5) Is there any other common alteration info that you found helpful?

Thanks a lot for any suggestions and information you can give.

 

[Tomasso]

Respectfully, this is info readily available using the SF search function. Peruse...........

 

[brooklyncam]

We're identical in terms of height and weight.

I've found the 1818 Fitzgerald line from Brooks Brothers fit thin runner types like us very well.