suit advice for big guy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by grov58, Oct 25, 2010.

  1. grov58

    grov58 New Member

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    This is my first post here, so bear with me, it is a bit long.

    I am going to be ordering two MTM suits in the near future and am looking for some guidance on what fabrics/styles to go with. I am wondering if there is different advice for big guys buying suits. I am a lot bigger than your standard SFer (6'4'' 300 with 52 jacket and 42/43 pant). I have already been measured so it now just a matter of deciding on the fabrics and details. I have decided to stick with a 2 button notch lapel for the jacket (side vents) but can't decide on pants (pleated vs. plain front, cuff/no cuff).

    As background, I wear a suit to work 3-5 days a week in a pretty conservative workplace (think government). I currently have navy, charcoal and a medium gray pinstripe suit, all of replaced as of yet. I also have a tan/light brown suit and charcoal pinstripe suit that should probably be retired from the rotation.

    I liked the following fabrics at the shop.
    1. Dark brown (seemed like it had hints of copper/something darker) in super 140s
    2. Standard Grey flannel
    3. Charcoal with chalk stripe Super 140s
    4. Charcoal wih light blue pinstripe Super 160s (this one is a bit darker than the one above and looks to have some blue tint to it as well.)

    I liked number 1, 2 and 4 the most but I am hesitant that 4 might be a bit much? Big guy in a more distinctive suit may not be a good thing. Going with 1 and 2 may restrict the seasons i can wear them and be less versatile.

    Any recommendations are much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Butter

    Butter Senior member

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    From a personal taste, I find 4 better than 3 since 3 seems rather played out and reminds me of 1930s mobsters (not that it can't look good, a fella pulls it off magnificently in the WAYWT thread).
     
  3. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    I would recommend a flat front with cuffs.

    -LR
     
  4. LanceW

    LanceW Senior member

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    6'2" 295 52L/46

    I recommend cuffs as the extra weight at the bottom will help your trousers hang better. I prefer 2" cuffs myself. I also find pleats to be more comfortable. As a heavier guy, I am harder on my clothes than most and try to avoid the high super numbers as I believe I will wear through them faster.

    I would encourage you to make one suit at a time. There WILL be something that will need to be adjusted, if only be a 1/4" somewhere. Unless you need both suits ASAP, I highly recommend waiting on the 2nd one.
     
  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    I would recommend a flat front with cuffs.

    -LR


    Disagree both generally and for a bigger guy such as the OP. Twin forward pleats will make the trousers much easier to wear and also look better.
     
  6. bbhewee

    bbhewee Senior member

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    I'm 6'1", 260 and a 48R and I find flat-fronted trousers to be generally more flattering as long as you don't have a belly overhang (and given your drop I'm guessing you don't).
     
  7. Risque

    Risque Well-Known Member

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    Welcome Grov.

    6'2, 260 here, and just had two suits MTM myself.

    Re the fabric options, pics would help a lot. But I would say that at your height, generally anything with a loud vertical stripe (say, no. 3) will really exaggerate your height - unless that's what you're going for. Personally, i'd be going with 2 > 4 > 1.

    I'd opt for a single pleat.
     
  8. grov58

    grov58 New Member

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    Thanks for all the help thus far. Good to see the big guys well represented on the forum.

    Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the fabric swatches online. I am just going based on memory. And I may not have done the best job with descriptions above. If it helps, I definitely have ruled out # 3. I also forgot to note that #1 is a flannel as well. Although I am generally drawn to plain suits, I am reluctant to go with #1 and #2 since they aren't year round suits. How much of the year is it appropriate to wear flannel suits?

    With regard to plain front vs. pleats I am still torn. All of my current suits are pleated and I am fine with how they fit me for the most part, however, I am not in love with any of them. I do have several pairs of wool flat front pants as well and while I generally like the way they look better, they just seem to be more hit or miss in terms of how well they fit. In theory, since this is MTM, I should be able to get a better fit than my other OTR flat fronts.

    Thanks again.
     
  9. edlarnold

    edlarnold Active Member

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    6 ft 230lbs here.

    I think if the pants fit well, as the should, plain fronts are more flattering even on big dudes.

    most certainly cuffs.
     
  10. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    6'4 and 265lbs 3 button benefits the taller man...not 2 buttons. Just don't do those high up skimpy Italian export lapels Have you considered a 3 piece suit? You don't have to button your jacket much. In a conservative/government office, the 3 piece look is respected as classic yet stylish Reconsider the high count Super fabrics. When I have ventured into the Supers, I went for Super 80 & 90s, which can be found in 12-16oz ranges http://www.american.com/archive/2007...er-super-wool/ I have found medium (13-17oz) & heavier (18-21oz) non Super cloths (worsted wool, woollen flannel or tweed)...made in Huddersfield/Yorkshire England or Scotland to be more durable than the Super cloths listed by the OP (which area usually in the lightweight realm of 9-11oz.) I have found double reverse English or forward pleats to be more comfortable than the flat front The OP never told us, where is he located and which MTM outfit is he using?
     
  11. Newlaw

    Newlaw Senior member

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    6'4 245. If you like the way the flat front look better, I say go for it. You are getting a suit MTM, it should be fine. I find it impossible to find a flat front off the rack that fits my thighs. (Compete in powerlifting).

    I have one pair of dress trousers tailored that are flat front. They look and fit great. The only trouble I have with the flat fronts is they need more "adjusting" throughout the day. For the most part I go pleated. Properly done pleats don't have to look like jockey pants. For whatever reason pleats are just more comfortable.
     
  12. HPress

    HPress Senior member

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    If you get a three-piece, then definetely go with suspenders!
     
  13. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    Disagree both generally and for a bigger guy such as the OP. Twin forward pleats will make the trousers much easier to wear and also look better.

    Im 6'4 250. I was giving my opinion from my own experience. The flat front trousers provide a slimming look. Pleats make big guys look like a fat old men, which is something I am not interested in.

    -LR
     
  14. HPress

    HPress Senior member

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    I hate how pleats are discussed as an either or thing. I personally think a single, not-too-wide pleat looks better than double-wide pleats or flat front. And I'm a twenty something.
     
  15. IronRock

    IronRock Senior member

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    6'5 and just under 17 stone (whatever that is in american)

    Charcoal Flannel - 3/2 - notch lapel - hang to the 2nd knuckle of your index finger (ie jacket length) - single pleat or flat oth would be fine for you (pleated might be more comfortable) - cuffs, 2 inch.

    3 piece would be great for you, nice fish tail single pleated trousers with braces, open jacket.
     

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