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Suggestions and comments for a London Lounge Gun Club jacket

voxsartoria

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Thanks to an SF member, I have unexpectedly come into possession of the special edition gun club check tweed that was commisioned through the London Lounge. It's a monster tweed...650 grams (19oz), much like a vintage tweed (well, the original sample was 19oz...I think the actual run was 15oz).

My tailor, Edwin DeBoise of Steed, will be in town shortly, and I plan to add a new jacket from this tweed to upcoming projects for fall delivery. Here's a gun club that Edwin made up for a client, modeled by his son, that he posted to SF a while ago:

DSCN0382_edited.jpg


Here's Alden in his (page to the bottom).

This cloth has been out for awhile...and what I want to do is something that I have not yet seen in it: patch hip and breast pockets in a three button SB.

Opinions?

- B
 

JamesT

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Patch pockets with inverted pleats, bi-swing back with a half belt.
 

Tomasso

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Originally Posted by Sator
How about a Norfolk jacket?
A great idea, but try finding a tailor who can pull one off these days.
frown.gif
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Tomasso
A great idea, but try finding a tailor who can pull one off these days.
frown.gif


Fortunately, Edwin does Norfolks without batting an eyelash, but I'm not sure that I want to go in that direction with this cloth.

Interesting suggestion, though.

- B
 

Concordia

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The gun club is a really thick fabric. Think twice before loading up on unnecessary layers.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Concordia
The gun club is a really thick fabric. Think twice before loading up on unnecessary layers.

That's why i'm thinking patch pockets with a quarter lining like the M&M above, but with swelled edges on the lapels to bring out how meaty the fabric is.

- B
 

Despos

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Less is more

This jacket is all about the cloth...

and wear the lines of the pattern end up, how and where the jacket pattern is positioned on the plaid and to minimize seams interrupting the flow of the pattern in the cloth.

Like on the M&M. The front dart is perfectly placed and sized. Barely detectable. Well thought out and executed.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Despos
Less is more

This jacket is all about the cloth...

and wear the lines of the pattern end up, how and where the jacket pattern is positioned on the plaid and to minimize seams interrupting the flow of the pattern in the cloth.

Like on the M&M. The front dart is perfectly placed and sized. Barely detectable. Well thought out and executed.


I'm with you there.

So far, all the jackets Edwin has done for me except for one have had no front darts and, in the typical A&S style, no sidebodies...only an underarm dart, so there is definitely a tendancy to minimize seams for the general style that we do.

If he does go for a front dart, I wouldn't be surprised if he executes the jacket with the same concerns that you have expressed.

Do you think, C., that a patch breast pocket is pushing it with this gun club check? I really love them, and I also like the idea that I have not yet seen a single jacket with patch pockets yet in this cloth.


- B
 

kolecho

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I would do a 3 patch also. Very chic
icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
 

Despos

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To expand on the importance of the cloth pattern, if I may.

If you notice on the M&M, the vertical line of the windowpane on the lapel facing does not run parallel to the lapel edge. On the left lapel it is 3/4 inch from the edge and 1/4" from the edge on the right lapel. The plaid on the collar is off as well. It is closer to the notch on the left than the right and the right shows the line of the windowpane, not visible on the left.

On the Steed jacket only the collar is off a touch. You see three of the dark lines of the plaid on the left side of the collar and two on the left. The red line is closer to the notch on the right than the left side.

When I was learning this trade these things would be do-overs. After you do them over for the third time, you aspire to doing it right the first time.

Plaids are a pain and a challenge to work with.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Despos
Plaids are a pain and a challenge to work with.

Thank you for explaining that.

When there is a large scale pattern, either windowpane or plaid, I imagine that the larger elements of the pattern can be used more easily to fool the eye into thinking that pattern matching and symmetry are achieved with precision.

In something like this check, I presume that is a bit harder because the pattern is large enough to require attention, but not so large as to train the eye quickly.

What do you think about a quarter lining for a tweed in this weight? Superfluous or useful?

- B
 

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