Suede Shoe Design Question

[dopey]

I am thinking of getting a pair of dark brown suede shoes. The dark brown is very dark, the leather is thick and soft and the nap is lush, but short. What shoe do you think this leather wants to be?

 

[Despos]

What style toe do you like, squarish, round, blunt, chiseled?

The dark shade of brown throws me off a bit.

 

[fritzl]



I am thinking of getting a pair of dark brown suede shoes. The dark brown is very dark, the leather is thick and soft and the nap is lush, but short. What shoe do you think this leather wants to be?

who's gonna make them?

 

[eg1]



I am thinking of getting a pair of dark brown suede shoes. The dark brown is very dark, the leather is thick and soft and the nap is lush, but short. What shoe do you think this leather wants to be?

I don't know what kind of shoes you ordinarily wear, or where you wear them, and in what sort of company?

For dark brown suede I like the idea of plain-toed bluchers in the usual almond shape, but your leather may demure.

 

[dopey]



What style toe do you like, squarish, round, blunt, chiseled?

I am fairly agnostic and am ok with most shapes, so long as it is not exaggerated.

The dark shade of brown throws me off a bit.

It is not the absolute darkest brown, but pretty dark. If it were in the blue family, it would be the equivalent of one shade lighter than midnight blue.

Because of the thickness, and also because I am holding out for a good buckskin, I will avoid a full brogue. If I get an oxford, I am thinking about a plain toe or maybe a cap toe. If a derby, I am thinking about a skin stitched lake, like the Dover. I think that might look cool in suede.
Another possibility is a slip-on. For a variety of reasons, slip-ons are a very hard fit for me. I have had one pair made bespoke and this might be a good opportunity to get another.

I don't know what kind of shoes you ordinarily wear, or where you wear them, and in what sort of company?
For dark brown suede I like the idea of plain-toed bluchers in the usual almond shape, but your leather may demure.

Most of my shoes are on the Alden Modified Last. To be honest, I find them as comfortable as bespoke and I am o.k. with how they look. The only problem is that choices are limited, generally, and there simply are no oxfords or slip-ons. So if I am going bespoke, I would like to get something I know I can't ever get otherwise.

That is one reason I am leaning towards an oxford if I get a plain toe. The other is that with a leather this dark and with such a fine nap, I think I can get a shoe that looks both dressed but relaxed at the same time.
But the thickness of the leather is also making me think skin stitching and I love the idea of a dark suede slip-on, hence my appeal for others' opinions.

 

[Despos]

My first thought was a slip on

Side gussets?

 

[dopey]



My first thought was a slip on
Side gussets?

I am not sure I like side gusset shoes, though they would make it easier for me to wear slip-ons. I have been happy with a pair of slip-ons Foster made for me. If I got another pair, I would use those as a starting point and vary it from there. They look like this pair of Will's, though they are a lighter, redder shade of brown and have a wing rather than a straight cap.

 

[fritzl]

i throw in a three eylet plain toe derby. looks awesome.

 

[dopey]



i throw in a three eylet plain toe derby. looks awesome.

Good idea - if I got a derby, it would be this style rather than the kind Alden makes on the Modified Last.
Though I think I know what you mean, do you have any examples in mind you can post?

 

[Wes Bourne]



i throw in a three eylet plain toe derby. looks awesome.

Agreed:



Although a 2 eyelet derby is moar awesome:

 

[fritzl]



Good idea - if I got a derby, it would be this style rather than the kind Alden makes on the Modified Last.
Though I think I know what you mean, do you have any examples in mind you can post?

probably not in suede. i'll have to check the vass thread and get back here. iirc, fellow member pliny owns one, at least in calf, which should get you an idea.

on a random note: i hope you get some wear on the mustards? certainly, you can pm me on this. i really appreciate, if you do. many thanks.

 

[rikod]

I have the same shoes, but I love this photo of Pliny's.

 

[fritzl]



I have the same shoes, but I love this photo of Pliny's.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

pliny is the man.

post #32: http://www.styleforum.net/t/31479/the-best-bluchers/30

 

[jammyo40]



Most of my shoes are on the Alden Modified Last. To be honest, I find them as comfortable as bespoke and I am o.k. with how they look. The only problem is that choices are limited, generally, and there simply are no oxfords or slip-ons.

I may be missing something here, but have you contacted Alden for a custom make up?

 

[dopey]



I may be missing something here, but have you contacted Alden for a custom make up?

Several times. They cannot make on the Modified Last any model for which there is no Modified Last pattern. That effectively means no oxfords as the patterns are all blucher models of one kind or another (though there is a saddle shoe pattern, which is oxford-like, but not really the same). Also, no slip-ons on that last. I have about a dozen pairs, including "Alpine" longwings, wingtip bluchers in black and in tan, black and burgundy cap toe bluchers, No. 8 shell plain toes, cigar shell u-tips, whiskey shell v-tips, black boots, no. 8 shell boots, white bucks, tan suede plain toes, dark brown suede boots and probably some others. They are a mix of standard stock, direct order, Japanese market seconds from shoemart and Moulded Shoe special makeups.