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Styleforum Centralia Knitting Mills Varsity Jackets - New

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by negusnegas, Oct 10, 2012.

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  1. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    Location:
    New York, NY
    I am arranging a group-buy and wanted to start a new thread so people are not confused. I took the information from shoreman1782 who managed the last group buy and he has been so kind as to give his input about the process so anyone interested just pm and will send you a gmail shared spreadsheet that will be used to take orders. Clearly this is a smaller company, which is not used to really small runs such as this so we want to be cognizant as we set expectations. Additionally, it's important to note that in northshore's experience, skookum used about a 6-inch allowance in the chest, so a size 42 jacket measured approx. 24 inches pit to pit (that allowance MAY scale down in smaller sizes, best to ask Centralia). I will communicate with Centralia to confirm these facts.

    To place an order:
    Pm with your email address or email me at ab2026@columbia.edu with questions or if you would like to join the order.


    As has been discussed on a few occasions before, Centralia Knitting Mills has been making dandy woolen products in Washington state since 1939, and they make a sweet varsity/letterman jacket. The American-made quality, never-changed-never-needed-to-change styling, and tradition of heritage have a lot of appeal for Styleforum types. Lines like Engineered Garments have (reportedly) used CKM as a maker for knitwear, and their custom varsity/letterman jackets fetch $300+ on Rakuten. They use 24 oz. boiled melton wool (all virgin) and full-grain leather to craft jackets that are little different today than they were 30 years ago or more.


    The specs:

    "¢\t24 oz. boiled melton wool body
    "¢\tFull-grain leather raglan sleeves
    "¢\t"Swiss knit" wool foldover collar, cuffs, and hem
    "¢\tSnap button front
    "¢\tLeather trim at pockets
    "¢\tNylon lining
    "¢\tAthletic cut for ease of movement"”Centralia is not Balenciaga or ToJ. Sizing down may give you a less full cut, but unfortunately I will not be able to accept returns. I stole a size chart from a .jp site to give people an idea of sizes.
    Code:

    SizeShoulder \tchest\t length\t sleeve
    34(xs)
    36(s) \t44cm\t54cm \t61cm \t62cm
    38(m) \t46\t57\t64 \t63
    40(l) \t49 \t59 \t68 \t65
    42(xl)\t51\t62\t70\t67

    Which equals APPROXIMATELY

    36(s)\t17in\t21in\t24in\t24.5in
    38(m)\t18\t22.5 \t25\t25
    40(l) \t19.5\t23 \t26 \t25.5
    42(xl) \t20\t24.5\t27.5\t26.5


    Larger sizes and extralong arms are available.

    The fare:
    Expected final price, including CONUS shipping, will be $175.
    If you would like international shipping, contact me and we'll figure something out.

    We are trying to finalize orders sooner than later (order deadline October 17) so, with the estimated 6-week lead time, the jackets should be ready in early December.

    Color options are below the form, rendered as well as possible with my crappy point and shoot.

    NAME:
    STYLEFORUM USERNAME:
    ADDRESS:
    PHONE:
    E-MAIL:
    SIZE (numerical):
    BODY COLOR:
    SLEEVE COLOR:
    POCKET TRIM COLOR:
    SNAP COLOR (snaps generally match body color):
    KNIT COLOR (collar, cuffs, hem):
    STRIPES ON KNIT TRIM? Y/N
    STRIPE STYLE (Single, Double, Triple; feathered or not)
    STRIPE COLOR(S):
    WEARER HEIGHT (yes, CKM requests):
    WEARER WEIGHT(yes, CKM requests):
    COMMENTS:

    Wool colors:
    [​IMG]

    Leather colors:
    [​IMG]

    Knit trim swatch sheet (for sweaters, but just for reference--knit trim colors correspond roughly with melton colors)
    [​IMG]

    Sample CKM jackets
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. dixonmanor

    dixonmanor Senior member

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    Do you know if it's possible to get the sort of "melange" wool for the ribbing? As seen on Archival Clothing Sweaters and some Japanese Skookum make-ups?
     
  3. thats.mana

    thats.mana Senior member

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    Anyone got links to the jap sites selling these varsities? Need more color references.
     
  4. dixonmanor

    dixonmanor Senior member

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    Also, if we go stripes on the cuffs/collar, does it have to be a black stripe?

    EDIT: never mind. Missed some fine print. Still curious what exactly "feathered" means though.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  5. Flieger

    Flieger Senior member

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    Mar 23, 2007
    I got my jacket in the last group buy. I'll see if I can find the pics and if I can give you guys some advice.
     
  6. ryosuke

    ryosuke Senior member

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    Jul 6, 2010
    

    That be great. My main concern is fit on if the XS will fit someone 5'5 around 150lbs. I assume I can always get the sleeves slimmed down afterwards if the body works.
     
  7. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    Location:
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    thanks flieger..if u pm with questions or email them to me I can call Skokum and get a sense of it, but I don't want to call till I have at least 6 people who are in..right now we are at 3
     
  8. Eccles

    Eccles Member

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    some .jp colourways

    skookum スタジャン

    skookum 通販

    skookum意味

    some pretty wild customs full leather, buffalo nickel buttons and so on

    I would however assume any other body shapes, full melton, marl ribbing, zippers etc ..

    will add cost and may be difficult unless we all order the same thing but id be curious about further options
     
  9. thats.mana

    thats.mana Senior member

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    Thanks for the links Eccles, found a damn near exact colorway I'm leaning towards, air force blue body, cream sleeves, solid gold ribbing. (left one, linked pic).[​IMG]

    Regretted not jumping on board the first time round.
     
  10. dixonmanor

    dixonmanor Senior member

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    Let's get some more people signed up! Excited to finally get my hands on one of these jackets...
     
  11. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    still only got two people on it
     
  12. dixonmanor

    dixonmanor Senior member

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    Well, I'm in, just see-sawing back and forth between color combos... Will have my order submitted in the next day or so.
     
  13. chanimal

    chanimal Senior member

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    Sep 27, 2006
    I'm in just sent you an email. hoping to re create a gant rugger varsity i missed out on a few years back.
     
  14. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    We are finally at 6 so looks like we will be a go. I will circulate an email within the next day or so to discuss next steps, including any additional comments, finalizing order specifics, payments and expectations.
     
  15. ryosuke

    ryosuke Senior member

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    I'm still waiting on some sizing advice before I commit. Wondering if an XS will be too short for someone 5'5 and if the arms will be slimmer fit
     
  16. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    It's been a busy week so I haven't had time to reach out to Skookum yet, but will give them a call first thing next week.
     
  17. Quede

    Quede Active Member

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    Seoul, South Korea
    My order details are confirmed.
    And question PM sent.
     
  18. binko29

    binko29 New Member

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    Aug 24, 2012
    I would like to know any size XS or 34 can order? Thank you very much
     
  19. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    Oct 17 has passed, is this open/closed?
     
  20. dixonmanor

    dixonmanor Senior member

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    I think it's closed, orders were sent yesterday
     

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