• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Style Ideas for a Custom-Made Double-Breasted Overcoat, Please?

uluvbs

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
199
Reaction score
0
Hi, all.

I just bought fabric to have a tailor make a double-breasted winter coat for me.

I want to avoid the overly gentleman-ly/business-y look of coats like this one:

PDF03-07-NY.jpg



Perhaps something like this one, but with more conservative pockets:

coat-1.jpg


?

Perhaps a lapel and collar shaped like this one?
http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/Y%27S+...C/sts/sr_men80

I can't decide! =)
Anyone have any photos of their favorite 2x-breasted coats?

Thank you.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
39
The one you are interested in is an Ulster. It should take a belted back. I had mine made up with 8 buttons. I like Ulsters to be in shades of brown with a bit of texture in the weave eg herringbone. However, checks and plaids would also work nicely. The fit of an Ulster is usually a bit looser. Mine is mid calf in length.
 

uluvbs

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
199
Reaction score
0
Hi, Sator.

I probably did a bad job describing what I want.

I was hoping for something that was definitely fitted, without looking too military-esque or Edwardian. Something not as formal as the top photo, but also not overly casual.

Any recs?

Thank you.
 

Full Canvas

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
1,031
Reaction score
3
Sator's suggestion of an Ulster along with Luckey Strike's AA illustration seem to strike that medium spot you seek. The sleeve cuffs, patch pockets with flaps, and the requisite drape give a less formal feel to the design. The Ulster also includes a martingale (half-belt) in the rear that lends a casual air. You can see the drape in my old Sulka Ulster below. There is no waist suppression to speak of.

If you want it any less "gentleman-ly/business-y" the next step down would seem to be a fully-belted Polo coat. Those have so much drape you will end up looking like a Shar-Pei.

I've been wearing this Sulka Ulster since the 1970s.

Photo-DSC_0118copy.jpg


___
 

alliswell

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
3,954
Reaction score
18
BB is selling a Polo / Ulster this season - you can zoom in to see the cuff detail.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...lt_color=Camel

I have one from a previous season. BB has tightened up their sizing recently - their current one fits snug, while the one I have is huge.
 

uluvbs

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
199
Reaction score
0
Hi, Lucky Strike. Thank you for your sketches, but I'm looking for something different. Those images (to me, at least) are of classic, formal double-breasted coats, and that's not really what I want. What I'm looking for is something along the lines of: http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/ADRIAN...P/sts/sr_men80 except with a nicer (less funky) lapel, and no shoulder loops or whatever you call them on top. And my fabric is charcoal. Or maybe like this one, except with 6 buttons on the front, and in cashmere, not velvet: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...731cat14810732 I want something that looks upscale casual, not something that a businessman would wear with a hat that he would tip as ladies walk by. Any other photos I can look for for design ideas? Thank you again.
 

Stu

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
2,323
Reaction score
16
Originally Posted by bigbjorn
The top overcoat is lovely. What is it?

I believe that is in our friend Jon's store at FIH. Great coat, it is on sale too, a cashmere/wool blend. Were I not financially challenged, I would be on that like stink on a burrito fart.
 

The Swede

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
169
Reaction score
2
I love the first two ulster coats in Lucky Strike's post. I am looking for something just like it for this winter. Any tips on where to buy?
 

Manton

RINO
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,314
Reaction score
2,879
Full Canvas, I would call yours a polo coat. Really lovely example, too.
 

mr monty

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2002
Messages
6,319
Reaction score
1,261
Great looking coat
drool.gif


540-1-md.jpg
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 36.7%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 59 39.3%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 15 10.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 26 17.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 26 17.3%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,147
Messages
10,578,746
Members
223,878
Latest member
timlockhaxtzbn
Top