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Style Ideas for a Custom-Made Double-Breasted Overcoat, Please?

uluvbs

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Hi, all.

I just bought fabric to have a tailor make a double-breasted winter coat for me.

I want to avoid the overly gentleman-ly/business-y look of coats like this one:




Perhaps something like this one, but with more conservative pockets:



?

Perhaps a lapel and collar shaped like this one?
http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/Y%27S+...C/sts/sr_men80

I can't decide! =)
Anyone have any photos of their favorite 2x-breasted coats?

Thank you.
 

Sator

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The one you are interested in is an Ulster. It should take a belted back. I had mine made up with 8 buttons. I like Ulsters to be in shades of brown with a bit of texture in the weave eg herringbone. However, checks and plaids would also work nicely. The fit of an Ulster is usually a bit looser. Mine is mid calf in length.
 

uluvbs

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Hi, Sator.

I probably did a bad job describing what I want.

I was hoping for something that was definitely fitted, without looking too military-esque or Edwardian. Something not as formal as the top photo, but also not overly casual.

Any recs?

Thank you.
 

Full Canvas

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Sator's suggestion of an Ulster along with Luckey Strike's AA illustration seem to strike that medium spot you seek. The sleeve cuffs, patch pockets with flaps, and the requisite drape give a less formal feel to the design. The Ulster also includes a martingale (half-belt) in the rear that lends a casual air. You can see the drape in my old Sulka Ulster below. There is no waist suppression to speak of.

If you want it any less "gentleman-ly/business-y" the next step down would seem to be a fully-belted Polo coat. Those have so much drape you will end up looking like a Shar-Pei.

I've been wearing this Sulka Ulster since the 1970s.



___
 

alliswell

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BB is selling a Polo / Ulster this season - you can zoom in to see the cuff detail.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...lt_color=Camel

I have one from a previous season. BB has tightened up their sizing recently - their current one fits snug, while the one I have is huge.
 

uluvbs

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Hi, Lucky Strike. Thank you for your sketches, but I'm looking for something different. Those images (to me, at least) are of classic, formal double-breasted coats, and that's not really what I want. What I'm looking for is something along the lines of: http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/ADRIAN...P/sts/sr_men80 except with a nicer (less funky) lapel, and no shoulder loops or whatever you call them on top. And my fabric is charcoal. Or maybe like this one, except with 6 buttons on the front, and in cashmere, not velvet: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...731cat14810732 I want something that looks upscale casual, not something that a businessman would wear with a hat that he would tip as ladies walk by. Any other photos I can look for for design ideas? Thank you again.
 

Stu

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Originally Posted by bigbjorn
The top overcoat is lovely. What is it?

I believe that is in our friend Jon's store at FIH. Great coat, it is on sale too, a cashmere/wool blend. Were I not financially challenged, I would be on that like stink on a burrito fart.
 

The Swede

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I love the first two ulster coats in Lucky Strike's post. I am looking for something just like it for this winter. Any tips on where to buy?
 

Manton

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Full Canvas, I would call yours a polo coat. Really lovely example, too.
 

mr monty

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Great looking coat


 

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