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Studs for Black Tie waistcoat

lordofpi

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I have commissioned a semi-formal evening-ware outfit, a.k.a. a tuxedo. It is a black single-button, peaked lapel, no vent, grosgrain faced jacket with a flat-front trouser and a low-cut black waistcoat. That last part is the focal point for my question.


What I'd like to know is how common it is to use waistcoat studs in lieu of covered buttons. I've heard of this practice in the past, but it may be archaic or just plain wrong (and I also may not be able to find an 8-piece stud set!). To add further complication, the waistcoat is double-breasted with no lapel (I felt this to be most formal, correct me if I am wrong), so studs would more than likely be out of the question for that scenario. Thoughts on this whole thing?

Post script: The standard black tie stud set that I had in the past was simply yellow gold and onyx. Is this a hard-fast rule, or can silver and platinum be brought into the mix as well? Thoughts are always appreciated.
 

Bird's One View

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It remains acceptable to use waistcoat studs. I recommend getting removable buttons to facilitate this.

DB evening formal vests are unusual today but not in Sator's lovely illustrations. I do not believe they are any more (or less) formal than SB vests. I think they should always have lapels, although I will defer to Sator on this one. As to whether DB vests historically took studs, again I must defer.

White metals are preferred for evening dress studs and links. Gold is also acceptable with black tie but not with white. The metal should match among your studs and links, but needn't match eyeglasses or wedding ring. Do not wear a watch.
 

lordofpi

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Originally Posted by Bird's One View
...[DB waistcoats] should always have lapels...

Well, if this is the case (and you may be right; I seem to remember a post from a while ago mentioning my POV being true, but it only applying to lounge suits -- not formalwear. I await Sator et al. for clarification), I believe peak or shawl are both options here (again, others please correct me).
 

Anthony Jordan

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In my experience (mainly vintage), pique waistcoats usually take detachable buttons whilst wool/barathea waistcoats usually take attached buttons to match those on the dinner jacket. This applies whether they are single- or double-breasted. I suspect that the reason for pique waistcoats having detachable buttons is practical, in that they can be removed when the waistcoat is being laundered and starched (they also typically have removable back buckles for the same reason.)

Fortunately one can get vintage sets which include detachable buttons, the key thing to look for here being a large head and long-ish metal shank. If they still have their retainers, so much the better, but those for chef's buttons (easily obtainable from haberdashers) can be substituted if not.

Here's a fairly generic set of white MoP detachable buttons:




And here are a couple of d/b waistcoats with detachable buttons:



 

lordofpi

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Wow, Anthony, great pics; thanks. My waistcoat is black worsted, cut from the same fabric used for the jacket, so I may forgo the studs if this is the case; I agree it would just look out of place with respect to the jacket.
 

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