Streetwear Brogues

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by NorthCoast, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. NorthCoast

    NorthCoast Senior member

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    Looking for recommendations on Brogues to pair with jeans and khakis.

    I had been thinking of Trickers but am open to suggestions.

    I started a new thread because there oddly seems to not be an existing one on the subject.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    EDIT: As suggested

    The blokes on here are definitely the ones to ask about brogues...but it needs information.
    1...Budget. < $500 USD
    2.Type....Derby,Oxford...Boot ?. Derby
    3.Sole..Leather,Rubber,doesnt matter ?. Rubber, with treads, pref commando or some version.
    4.Colour ? Lighter Brown.
    5.Grain leather,calf,a mix of both,or Cordovan ? Regular leather. Not looking for pebbled, cordovan, etc.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2015


  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    That would be a good choice.
     


  3. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Well this thread may be endless as there are so many brogues, and in different styles/appellations (full, semi, quarter, longwings, etc.)... A versatile shoe that (imho, but i'm sure some will disagree) can be easily wear with jeans or khakis (at least since the 60s).
    The funny thing would be if the posters would show some of their own ?
    I start...

    [​IMG]
    Church's Burwood. Can't beat them. This pair is almost thirty years old.

    [​IMG]
    Loake Royals. Cheaper and sturdy

    [​IMG]
    Birkenstock with 'Tatami' insoles. Far less classic. Chunky and comfy.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2015


  4. NorthCoast

    NorthCoast Senior member

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    Wow thanks for sharing.

    Those Church's are my favorite and they are 30 years old! Nice shoes.

    I have been through a few pair over the years, I just donated a house brand pair from Zappos and currently ahve a pair of Cole-Hahn's but they look so cheap compared to proper shoes hence my search.

    I did go to Trickers on Jermyn street in September and that was interesting. I window shopped at the other shoe stores on that street but did not go inside.
     


  5. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Try going on the Herring shoes site and look at the Barker Grassington in calf leather,a light tan colour Derby with a Dainite sole...I think they are about £260 .
    There is also the Loake Braemar in a mid brown,a cross between a full brogue and a longwing style.
    Another one could be the Sanders Salisbury,personally I don't like shoes with metal eyes on the lace holes,but that's me.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2015


  6. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    The combinations of broguing (full/half/quarter, longwing/shortwing), lacing (derby/oxford), sole thickness, etc still leave me a little perplexed so I have no brogues currently. To my mind the longwing derby and the 'shortwing' oxford are the full broguing/lacing combinations that work. Longwing oxfords and 'shortwing' derbys look a bit Frankenstein's monster to my eye. Less broguing=more formality so for half/quarter broguing (ie: toecaps only) oxford lacing would look most internally consistent in my view but maybe you want to play around with this.

    Back to full broguing, the longwing has a certain simplicity - the tails of the wings resolving themselves in an uninterrupted sweep to the heel - whereas the 'shortwing' looks rather busy with the wings dropping to the welt before recovering again in a heel cup - can look a bit bodged or 'designed by committee'.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2015


  7. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    There are so many makes,styles and types of brogues that there is bound to be something for everyone.

    I only have one pair of Oxfords,a semi brogue and they do look 'right' (IMO),for years I looked for a Derby semi brogue but all the ones that I saw the toe cap looked to small and out of proportion (again IMO).

    Something else to think about,do Oxfords look ok with jeans ?,some will say no,others will say its ok,personal preference again.

    Colour is another consideration,a light tan shoe might look good with dark blue jeans (or trousers) but they will not work with lighter jeans so well or other colours of trousers,whereas a 'cherry' colour shoe would be more versatile, again all IMO.

    Not a lot of love for the brogue boot in our threads,I have a couple of pairs and I like them,but I like boots in general,I saw a nice simple pair of tan brogue boots with a Dainite sole in John Lewis the other day,no punching on the toe,Made in England,£225.

    I agree with you about Oxford longwings,they look odd,but I do like Derby 'shortwings' ( not all of them though,some makes don't look 'right') ,I don't think that there is an 'ultimate brogue' that will please everyone.
     


  8. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    I must say i totally agree with that. It's the classic/traditional combination.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cerneabbas

    'Something else to think about, do Oxfords look ok with jeans ? Some will say no, others will say its ok, personal preference again.'

    I quite agree with that (you'll notice on the picture of my Oxford Burwoods that i wear them with a sta-prest) But at the same time, my Birkenstock Oxfords look really good with jeans, maybe because they are brown and chunky. So i think it's a matter of personal preference, and brogue style/color, be it Oxford or Derby.
    But for sure, Derbies are more easy to wear with jeans.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NorthCoast

    'I did go to Trickers on Jermyn street in September and that was interesting. I window shopped at the other shoe stores on that street but did not go inside.'

    I had a walk in Jermyn Streeet last summer with one of our posters (maybe we even went two times, with other posters as well, before and after a meet up), and we went into several shop. Crockett & Jones were superb, but i don't think their Brogues are the type you'll wear in a too casual way.
    I was very impressed by the Cheaney store, great looking quality shoes, i think some of them are perfect to wear with Jeans/Khakis/Sta-prest.
    Trickers stays a very good option, i like their chunkiness...
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2015


  9. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I have liked brogues since about 1969 or 70 and the visit to Jermyn street was great for me,seeing and comparing some fantastic shoes in C&J and Cheaney and to a slightly lesser degree Barkers.

    Trickers,have gone for different colours and some exaggerated designs in brogues and boots,mostly they don't appeal to me BUT I am glad they have done it as it gives people more choice and that is very important,it would be pretty boring if all companies produced items to the same standard design or style.

    The C&J Pembroke ( that Cleav bought and put a picture up in 'the Look goes on' ),is a superb shoe,in design and quality,but would you wear it with jeans ?, a bit like buying an Aston Martin and towing a trailer behind it maybe ?.

    Unless you are buying several pairs of shoes to wear with different clothes then versatility has got to be a consideration.

    I guess that availability is another thing to think about,seeing a shoe that you like online and then not being able to find a pair to buy is frustrating,I would have thought that in the USA the Allen Edmonds Macneill in walnut would be available (I know that they are grain ),I think they have stopped making them but I expect that there are plenty in stock in online shops.
     


  10. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Maybe NorthCoast is more looking for an English brand, otherwise there are of course plenty of US options, starting cheap with Bostonian or Bass, going to very expensive with Alden.
    Allen Edmonds is still a good option, even if, as with Florsheim, the quality seems to be not as good as it used to be... Some clothes brands like Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren have sometimes nice shoes made for them by traditional cobblers.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2015


  11. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I was just thinking that you could have a 'commando sole' put on most brogues,that opens up the choice a bit.

    There are also 'buckshot brogues' as a bit of a variation,and the Oliver Sweeney Hoagland a long wing with square punched holes.

    BTW, Cheaney have a sale on with a £100 off of some styles...not the ones you want or in your size of course !
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2015


  12. NorthCoast

    NorthCoast Senior member

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    English brands are great.

    For the most part I was looking for quality, name brand maker, and a minor amount of versatility.

    I do need another dress pair for suits, black. I had been looking at used Aldens on Ebay for awhile but gave up on that.

    I really want a pair of Trickers in green. The 1197 last is slightly wide on my feet where the 2298 fits better.
     


  13. Cake

    Cake Well-Known Member

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    For the price (< $400) it is hard to beat AE. The McAllister is my favorite of their bunch.
     


  14. Inks

    Inks Senior member

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    My Next, bench-grade longwings. Made in Eire.
    [​IMG]
     


  15. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    AWSM :nodding:
     


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