Streamlined Shoe Wardrobe

[Manton]

Inspired by NOBD.

So, in the taste thread we don't focus on shoes. The reason is part photographic laziness, but also owing to the fact that shoes are far from your face and far easier to get right--if you know the basics. Foo aside, you can get by with just six pairs if you choose the right pairs and wear them wisely.

Some basic principles first:

-Oxfords are for suits
-Black is for suits
-Brown is almost always better than black unless your color range that day is entirely "city"
-Calf should never be burg; burg is for shell
-No loafers with suits
-Bulky shoes can be OK with worsteds and other lightweight clothes but dainty shoes look ridiculous with heavy clothes
-It's easier to wear a dark shoe with a light suit than the reverse
-Shell and suede are for fall/winter
-Tan is for spring/summer


Partial exceptions:

-Full brogues are OK with tweed odd jackets
-Black, if it is not an oxford, can be worn with a blazer and grays
-Sleek, unlined suede loafers are OK with tweed
-White and dirty bucks (i.e., suede) are for summer


The list:

1) Black stitch caps. For funerals, job interviews, Important Meetings, and whenever you must be the ne plus ultra of conservative business dress
2) Brown punch caps. The ultimate suit shoe, gorgeous and goes with virtually everything; could sub this one for a brown half or full brogue
3) A thick-soled blucher or longwing in brown textured calf or burg shell. Think the foo shoe, ed's Dinelackers, JL Russell, or one of those Vass $hitkickers. Perfect for any fall/winter odd jacket and good with most fall/winter suits
4) Tan monks. Good for summer suits or odd jackets, wearable the rest of the year
5) #8 shell or mink suede loafers. Dark enough for a blazer, grays and a white shirt but also colorful enough for day; better than lace-ups for most no-tie outfits
6) Tobacco suede oxford: goes with all suits from Labor Day to Memorial Day; wear it with odd jackets as long as I don't see you

 

[Manton]

I realize this is light on summer shoes. So, of the above, buy the best quality you can afford. Then get a pair of dirty bucks, which are cheap. Done.

 

[DocHolliday]

I call and raise.

Three pairs:
Medium brown calf chelsea
Dark brown suede chelsea
Black chelsea

Complete shoe wardrobe!

 

[DocHolliday]

More seriously, I have become more flexible on your first basic principle. Now I'm thinking it's more about the slimness of the trou. Admittedly, maybe that's because I so rarely wear suits.

Also, shell is coarse stuff. It has lost my favor except in rare application.

Also also, I'm off monks completely.

 

[Thanks SF (a new me)]

"6) Tobacco suede oxford: goes with all suits from Labor Day to Memorial Day; wear it with odd jackets as long as I don't see you"

I am curious as I am planning to obtain one, If you can please elaborate sir, the odd jacket pairing...Thanks....

 

[Manton]

I don't like oxfords with OJs

 

[Leaves]

1. Black plain cap toe Oxford
2. Brown punched cap toe Oxford
3. Medium brown suede punched cap toe Derby (with medallion a.k.a semi brogue over here in Europe)
4. Dark brown Balmoral boot
5. Medium brown grain Derby boot
6. Burgundy penny loafers (in Shell of course)

Could never be without at least 2 boots where I live (COOOOOOOOLD).

 

[aravenel]

This is great.

I might replace the tan monks with a pair of brown chukkas, probably calf, possibly suede. Great with odd jackets, especially during the fall and winter. If with a dainite sole, can also be good bad weather shoes.

 

[archibaldleach]

1. Black punch cap balmoral (I just prefer these to stitch caps)
2. Brown punch cap balmoral
3. Chestnut brown monkstrap
4. Black half brogue // Drummond-style austerity brogue
5. Black loafer
6. Brown loafer

If I wore more heavy tweeds and flannels I would probably put a blucher somewhere in here, but as things are now, I have an inherent dislike of bluchers. I also do not have to wear a suit and tie everyday, so loafers have a bit more use for me.

 

[chogall]

1) Black cap toe Oxford.
2) Brown semi brogue Oxford. More versatile than brown quarter brogue Oxford IMo.
3) Wingtip blucher or boots. (Tricker's Stow).
4) Mid Brown NST. (EG Dover or SC PC NST)
5) Suede chukka.
6) Austerity brogue Oxford. Not for everyone but I love them. (JL 2009).

I personally much prefer drivers/slippers than loafers. And in the situations that I would wear loafers, chukka or NST works just as we'll.

 

[YRR92]

How light could one go on #3? Would the classic chesnut grain LWB work, or would it be a shade too light?

Would #2 work in burg shell, if you wear more tweed jackets than worsted suits?

 

[chogall]



How light could one go on #3? Would the classic chesnut grain LWB work, or would it be a shade too light?

Would #2 work in burg shell, if you wear more tweed jackets than worsted suits?

Why get a fairly formal shoes, a punch cap, with fairly rugged leather, cordovan?

 

[bourbonbasted]

Surprised to see a boot absent from your list, Manton (either dress boot or a more casual chukka). Weather reasons aside, they can also add a good bit of character to more casual or semi-formal looks.

 

[Quadcammer]

don't agree with a lot of that. don't have the time to explain at this point.

 

[YRR92]

Why get a fairly formal shoes, a punch cap, with fairly rugged leather, cordovan?

I'm sorry, I should have made that more clear -- he mentioned that a full brogue would be an acceptable substitute for the punch cap. A shell punch cap would be a little odd to me, though I've seen Aldens. Certainly not an essential.

The question I should have asked:

Would a burg shell full brogue be an acceptable substitute for the brown punch caps, if one wore tweed jackets much more often than suits?