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straight from the bench

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Oct 13, 2010.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Here's my latest pair. Veg calf and American Alligator. Hand welt stitched at 10-11 spi. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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  3. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Just add steel eyelets and they would be perfect
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Just add steel eyelets and they would be perfect
    Sorry...I'll never use steel eyelets again if there's any way to avoid it. I hate the look and I hate the hassle of shredded laces.
     
  5. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Beautiful balmorals, DW.
     
  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    That waist treatment is just gorgeous [​IMG]
     
  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Handsome soles. - B
    Actually, in these photos, they seem a bit mottled and dark to me. In real life they are clearer and more even and more a yellow amber than a brown.
    Beautiful balmorals, DW.
    Thank you. I was especially please with the way that I was able to match up the alligator such that the main "interstices" between the rows of tiles lined up across the facings.
    That waist treatment is just gorgeous [​IMG]
    Thank you. The beveled and fiddleback waist is/was one of my "three things" that I have been working hard to refine. I'm close...real close. I was pleased and satisfied...better will come, I suspect, but only incrementally from here.
     
  8. gherrmann

    gherrmann Senior member

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    crikey! that's the first pair of alligator shoes I've ever seen that I actually wanted.

    nice work, sir.
     
  9. reachforit108

    reachforit108 Well-Known Member

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    i like the eyelet placement.
     
  10. IronRock

    IronRock Senior member

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  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sweet now i know where to resole my shoes ;-)[​IMG]
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    crikey! that's the first pair of alligator shoes I've ever seen that I actually wanted. nice work, sir.
    Thank you. Alligator doesn't get a lot of love here but I've always liked it. Handled with respect and allowed to speak, without misguided attempts to enhance it or "doll" it up, I think it can be rather elegant. It's kind of like a beautiful woman...no make-up needed.
     
  13. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's kind of like a beautiful woman...no make-up or needed.


    and tastes like chicken............



    Great last shape, not too elongated and not too round. I also like the toe shape very much. Not a huge fan of teh "high" waist and high heel but that seems to be de riguer in bespoke shoes.
     
  14. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Agreed- I like the overall shape.
     
  15. Eight

    Eight Well-Known Member

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    Wow, good job. These are a work of art.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    DWF, what is the advantage/disadvantage of extending the sole all the way to the heel of the shoe and then stacking the heel over top of it as opposed to just stopping the sole and stacking the heel right against the insole? Does this question make sense?
     
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    and tastes like chicken............
    Really? Are we talking about women or alligators?[​IMG]
    Well, I like a higher heel because I'm short and have worn even higher heels for most of my adult life. But in my opinion it would be a bit clumsy,visually, to do the fiddleback and beveled waist in a lower heel--5/8", for instance. More than that, the fiddleback waist is harder to do than a standard flat waist and I am trying to get my waists to the point where the beveled edge is less than the thickness of the outsole (10 iron, excluding the welt--usually around 4 iron). I want to end up with somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 iron in the waist--right around 3/16" in other words. Anyway, the point is that many makers...myself included...tend to showcase the difficult work. With bespoke work, if the higher heel and beveled waist seems more common it is either because the customers are wanting it or because the makers are photographing it more often.
     
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    DWF, what is the advantage/disadvantage of extending the sole all the way to the heel of the shoe and then stacking the heel over top of it as opposed to just stopping the sole and stacking the heel right against the insole? Does this question make sense?
    Patrick, I'm not really sure what you're talking about. There is an old technique that may still be used in some English shops where the outsole and heel seat piece are cut separately. Cutting an outsole this way is called "the three-quarter knife." I never understood the reason for that except as a material and money saving measure. In fact, Thornton...who serves as a useful and relatively contemporary bridge between bespoke and commercial sensibilities...says quite clearly that cutting the three-quarter knife "cheapens the sole considerably." (J.H. Thornton, Textbook of Footwear Manufacture, National Trade Press, London, 1953, pp218) But the heelseat piece is not part of the heel stack. More than that, the upper leather will almost certainly be drafted (pulled) over the insole and sewn to the insole and then a piece of leather (called the seat lift) cut the same thickness as the welt (4 irons +/-) will be added. So no method of attaching the outsole would go directly against the insole in any case.
     
  19. gladhands

    gladhands Senior member

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  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Patrick,

    I'm not really sure what you're talking about. There is an old technique that may still be used in some English shops where the outsole and heel seat piece are cut separately. Cutting an outsole this way called "the three-quarter knife."

    I never understood the reason for that except as a material and money saving measure. In fact, Thornton...who serves as a useful and relatively contemporary bridge between bespoke and commercial sensibilities...says quite clearly that cutting the three-quarter knife "cheapens the sole considerably." (J.H. Thornton, Textbook of Footwear Manufacture, National Trade Press, London, 1953, pp218)

    But the heelseat piece is not part of the heel stack.

    More than that, the upper leather will almost certainly be drafted (pulled) over the insole and sewn to the insole and then a piece of leather (called the seat lift) cut the same thickness as the welt (4 irons +/-) will be added. So no method of attaching the outsole would go directly against the insole in any case.


    Yeah, I am referring to how the heel and the waist portion looks like two separate pieces in that heel closeup photo.
     

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