Stitching Method vs Fabric Quality: which is more important?

[emelyts]

I am going to get my first bespoke suit in London in a few months time.

With a budget of £1,400 for a three-piece suit, I need to be quite frugal on what I purchase.

I am quite confused about two main concepts:

i.) Cloth/Fabric quality.
ii.) Stitching quality.

Fabrics range from £750 to £1500, at a particular place that fits my budget.
Is the expensive cloth really worth it?

The type of stitching is also different.

My options are:

i.) Machine stitched. (+£0)
ii.) Half hand-stitched. (+£200)
iii.) Fully hand-stitched. (+£400)

Is fully hand-stitched significantly better than the other options?

Given a trade-off between fabric quality and stitching, which should I care more about?

Which is to be preferred:
Cheaper cloth + Fully hand-stitched
or
Medium priced cloth + Half hand-stitched
or
Top quality cloth + Machine stitched.

My goal is to have a suit that fits almost perfectly, and looks the best it can.
I know very little about suits.

Thank you.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I am going to get my first bespoke suit in London in a few months time.

With a budget of £1,400 for a three-piece suit, I need to be quite frugal on what I purchase.

I am quite confused about two main concepts:

i.) Cloth/Fabric quality.
ii.) Stitching quality.

Fabrics range from £750 to £1500, at a particular place that fits my budget.
Is the expensive cloth really worth it?

The type of stitching is also different.

My options are:

i.) Machine stitched. (+£0)
ii.) Half hand-stitched. (+£200)
iii.) Fully hand-stitched. (+£400)

Is fully hand-stitched significantly better than the other options?

Given a trade-off between fabric quality and stitching, which should I care more about?

[COLOR=FF0000]Which is to be preferred:[/COLOR]
Cheaper cloth + Fully hand-stitched
or
Medium priced cloth + Half hand-stitched
or
Top quality cloth + Machine stitched.

My goal is to have a suit that fits almost perfectly, and looks the best it can.
I know very little about suits.

Thank you.

Depends on the quality of the cheaper cloth. If it is really bad quality fabric, the suit will always look cheap. On the other hand, you don't need top quality fabric at this price point. I would aim for medium priced cloth, but try to go with someone that knows a bit about fabrics. Before you get too caught up with hand vs. machine stitched, ask if the suits are fused, full or half canvassed.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Hey emelyts, welcome to the forum. We have a weekly thread that would be great for questions like this. Next time you have a quick question, check it out. Here is the link for this week:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/457428/...er-inquiries-quick-questions-classic-menswear

Jerry already gave some pretty good advice.  Get a nice cloth from a reputable mill and something at least half canvassed.  I can't imagine a bespoke tailor offering fused suits.  No reason to go entirely hand made, but some handwork is always nice.  Mind if I ask what tailor you are considering?  There are plenty of Londoners around here that could probably weigh in with advice.

Why the rush to go bespoke?

 

[emelyts]

Hey emelyts, welcome to the forum. We have a weekly thread that would be great for questions like this. Next time you have a quick question, check it out. Here is the link for this week:



http://www.styleforum.net/t/457428/...er-inquiries-quick-questions-classic-menswear



Jerry already gave some pretty good advice. Get a nice cloth from a reputable mill and something at least half canvassed. I can't imagine a bespoke tailor offering fused suits. No reason to go entirely hand made, but some handwork is always nice. Mind if I ask what tailor you are considering? There are plenty of Londoners around here that could probably weigh in with advice.



Why the rush to go bespoke?

I am considering Graham Browne and CadAndTheDandy.

I have never owned a suit before and I will start university in October of this year. The university is quite traditional and requires me to attend formal dinners and events where a suit is required. I'll also need a suit for job interviews and internships too.

My stature is rather awkward; short, small framed, but athletic, thus I have constant trouble buying clothes that fit. I literally buy child-size shirts and trousers, and they fit very well.

I think that bespoke will allow me to get a suit that fits, something that I have no hope to get off the rack. I have some money to spare, so seems like a good investment!

Do you think this is a good enough reason to go bespoke?
(I am bringing a friend with me when I go for fittings, as she knows much more than i do about clothing and style.)

How can I know what the cloth quality really is like? Do I judge by the super number?

And does that mean, compared to half hand-stitched, if budget is of concern, 'fully hand-stitched' may not be worth the additional cost?

 

[Murlsquirl]

Fair enough. It is a pretty good reason and it's not like you actually need a reason, I was just curious.

SXXX really doesn't tell you much about the quality of the fabric. It describes the fineness of the wool fibers. Both of the tailors you mentioned should have some good fabric books on hand to choose from.

Handmade is how bespoke suits are meant to be made. That said, if you can only afford some handwork, there is nothing wrong with that.

 

[emelyts]

Fair enough. It is a pretty good reason and it's not like you actually need a reason, I was just curious.

SXXX really doesn't tell you much about the quality of the fabric. It describes the fineness of the wool fibers. Both of the tailors you mentioned should have some good fabric books on hand to choose from.

Handmade is how bespoke suits are meant to be made. That said, if you can only afford some handwork, there is nothing wrong with that.

Ah, I see.
I can afford fully hand-made. I will probably go with that. I have read very mixed reviews about Cad and the Dandy on here, it makes me not trust them... That leaves only Graham Browne, who seem to have a much better reputation.

I am just not sure where is the best place to go in London for a three-piece suit. My budget is around £1500.

>.<

 

[Murlsquirl]



Ah, I see.
I can afford fully hand-made. I will probably go with that. I have read very mixed reviews about Cad and the Dandy on here, it makes me not trust them... That leaves only Graham Browne, who seem to have a much better reputation.

I am just not sure where is the best place to go in London for a three-piece suit. My budget is around £1500.

>.<

I really don't know much about either of them, but I'm sure there are some on here that do.

@Cleav any good suggestions in that range?