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Still navy suit even if only for special occasions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smilence, Sep 14, 2016.

  1. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    I live in silicon valley and work as engineer for a tech company. Here even a casual blazer is a bit overdressed, so I definitely will never have chance to wear a suit in working environment (I don't want to either).

    But I want a single-breasted, two-piece suit, for friends' weddings, company anniversary party, or more importantly, when I go in town, going for a date with good mood. I'm heading to spoon tailor in San Francisco for a bespoke this weekend, so I want to decide the color and pattern before then.

    I know most people here would recommend a navy suit simply for versatility, but since I don't need that much of versatility, or rather say I would emphasize more on "dress to impress" (I may even pair the suit with white leather sneaker), would navy still be the top choice? Would light grey come to your mind? Or even with pinstripe?
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Distinguished Member

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    For all purposes the first suit should either be in charcoal or navy. If you are only going to wear it less than 10 times per year (I doubt most will need to wear a suit for dates), I suggest you to get Italian luxury fabrics (e.g. High-end VBC or milmil from Zegna) because it will be durable enough.
     


  3. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior Member

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    Navy or charcoal will work. Stripes are definitely business. Light grey would work for summer weddings and daytime, but looks out of place in the evening.

    Charcoal has the disadvantage that is a little bit tricky to not make it look business. I have a dark grey lightweight flannel suit, unlined with patch pockets, that looks pretty casual. Coarser weaves like Fresco can also give a more relaxed vibe. Avoid those smooth grey business fabrics.

    Navy will have fewer business connotations, but the exact colour can also be tricky. Dark navy is the most neutral, but only the cut can make it usable for casual occasions. A lighter navy is more fashion-forward, but don't make it too bright. If the tailor shows you fabric swatches, keep in mind that they typically will be brighter than they look as a swatch. Definitely compare swatches to a real garment before you choose.

    My recommendation is that before you go to a tailor, try on some RTW, make photos, and get some impressions of how you like to "dress to impress".
     


  4. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    Thx for the input, what do you think of H&S, or loro piana, would they have even better options?
     


  5. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    Thx I think it's a good idea, so when I try RTW, what should I pay more attention to that makes a difference ? Like styling wise or fabric
     


  6. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    And to clarify, I guess what you meant is that, since I will not be wearing very often so the fabric does not have to be very durable, such as those with higher super numbers?
     


  7. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior Member

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    Both. You should get some ideas of different color levels and textures, as well as pocket style or cut (loose-tight, short-long). Preferably, you should take pictures both inside and outside a shop, to evaluate indoor and outdoor appearance. Fabrics and cuts will be somwhat limited in RTW, but at least you have a starting point. You can also look for good examples in the WIWT thread and bring them to your tailor for discussion.
     


  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Loro Piana is excellent, you should also be looking at Dormeuil and Scabal. IMO Holland and Sherry has become rather mid tier since the buy out.

    It's very interesting what you say, tech is actually my biggest client base and what you are looking to do is fairly typical of my clients in tech. These people are wanting to dress up very well now and again or to yes enjoy wearing a nice suit on a date.

    I think there can often be too much focus here on suits just as business uniforms, a suit can do many, many things depending on how it's styled and what cloth is used.

    If you want something dressy and a touch glamorous in navy maybe try a mohair like this.

    [​IMG]

    I would do without the vest though. The cloth is Dormeuil Tonik, it's just a bit more vibrant a navy than from somewhere like H Lesser who do very business like cloths.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016


  9. galileo

    galileo Senior Member

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    First I'm not in tech, while my friends are in startup field.

    Would agree to try out Dormeuil or Scabal in one button design to stand out. H&S is pretty much over. I picked one button, peak lapel in Harrison for myself
     


  10. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    would you mind sharing photos if you had any?
     


  11. galileo

    galileo Senior Member

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    Just commissioned days ago sadly, my reference style (not in Lesser wool+cashmere, grey Harrison Frontier as I'm kinda slender):

    [​IMG]
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Distinguished Member

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    Loro Piana and H&S do have some excellent stuff in the high end. But they are really expensive.

    I have used VBC Revenge s140 and Zegna 15milmil15 for my working suits, and I really like the sensation that comes with it.

    I also agree with Reeves that Dormeuil Tonik is a fine choice, as long as you don't mind something a little hard.
     


  13. smilence

    smilence Well-Known Member

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    Thank you all! these are rly helpful.

    I went to the tailor today, picked loro piana Wish 170s, since they have better deal than other fabrics. it's a medium solid navy, with subtle stripe texture.

    one button, slim notch lapel. they said it's almost unlimited fitting.spoon tailor seems to know this very well, the tailor pointed out the issue of my current blazer with one look.

    hope the new suit would stand out with the fabric and fit.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2016


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