Stiff Waist band in Bespoke pants

[justsayno]

Got a bespoke pants made in one of the iGent tailor shops on my recent travels to HK. For versatility, I ended up choosing a workhorse vbc 110 fabric. Because of my limited time, I only had 2 fittings. The first fitting was basically fabric cut up, no zippers, pockets etc. By the 2nd fitting, pants are fully constructed.

On the 2nd fitting, I found the waist band to be rather stiff. I wasn't asked to specify waistband stiffness because I was more used to softer waist bands and expected soft waist bands. I can't think that stiffness adds to the comfort level so why did the tailor make the waist band stiff?

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

Stiffness in the pants?

Too many jokes.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by justsayno

I can't think that stiffness adds to the comfort level so why did the tailor make the waist band stiff?

Could be lots of reasons. Maybe they felt the cloth required it for stability's sake. Maybe they just like to use a thicker lining. Who knows. I've never thought to stipulate the softness of my waistbands when ordering trousers as I figure it's best for the tailor to figure it out on his own.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by justsayno

Got a bespoke pants made in one of the iGent tailor shops on my recent travels to HK. For versatility, I ended up choosing a workhorse vbc 110 fabric. Because of my limited time, I only had 2 fittings. The first fitting was basically fabric cut up, no zippers, pockets etc. By the 2nd fitting, pants are fully constructed.

On the 2nd fitting, I found the waist band to be rather stiff. I wasn't asked to specify waistband stiffness because I was more used to softer waist bands and expected soft waist bands. I can't think that stiffness adds to the comfort level so why did the tailor make the waist band stiff?

Something that I have never specified nor it has to be said been troubled by. Maybe you should wear them and get on with life.

 

[DerekS]

Ive been considering going bespoke for trousers......not to derail the OP, but what should I expect to pay for a decent navy flannel?

 

[tutee]

Originally Posted by justsayno

On the 2nd fitting, I found the waist band to be rather stiff. I wasn't asked to specify waistband stiffness because I was more used to softer waist bands and expected soft waist bands. I can't think that stiffness adds to the comfort level so why did the tailor make the waist band stiff?

A good stable (or rigid) waistband in pants is one of the hallmarks of traditional British or British inspired tailoring. This goes back as long as I can remember. This is true for full or half-waistbands. Keeping in mind that a waistband is really the only piece in pants that really has any interlining or inner construction.

But other than that unless your waistband is excessively tight or wide, it should not be a problem in most day to day functions as it is only present in the outer-circumference of your pants so should not obstruct in any activity.

 

[justsayno]

Asking for knowledge here.... You can keep your advise.

Originally Posted by GBR

Something that I have never specified nor it has to be said been troubled by. Maybe you should wear them and get on with life.

 

[justsayno]

thanks tutee, v helpful.

Originally Posted by tutee

A good stable (or rigid) waistband in pants is one of the hallmarks of traditional British or British inspired tailoring. This goes back as long as I can remember. This is true for full or half-waistbands. Keeping in mind that a waistband is really the only piece in pants that really has any interlining or inner construction.

But other than that unless your waistband is excessively tight or wide, it should not be a problem in most day to day functions as it is only present in the outer-circumference of your pants so should not obstruct in any activity.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by justsayno

Asking for knowledge here.... You can keep your advise.

Ignore him, everyone else does.

Tutee brings the knowledge.

 

[justsayno]

thx

Originally Posted by Manton

Ignore him, everyone else does.

Tutee brings the knowledge.

 

[Despos]

Keeps the waistband from curling over, minimizes stretching. It is normal for most pantmakers to use banroll in the interior of the waistband for these reasons. The waistband rolls over when you sit, mostly in the front, the banroll brings the shape back.

You shouldn't notice it while wearing the trousers.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Manton

Ignore him, everyone else does.

Tutee brings the knowledge.

And YOU should keep your silly little comments to your American self.

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by Despos

Keeps the waistband from curling over, minimizes stretching. It is normal for most pantmakers to use banroll in the interior of the waistband for these reasons. The waistband rolls over when you sit, mostly in the front, the banroll brings the shape back.

You shouldn't notice it while wearing the trousers.

I have my guy not use banroll because I did not like the stiffness. The shirting fabric provides a decent body to the waistband but I am really after a "pillow" like feel on the waistband, soft but with some body. Any suggestions on what I could use for the interior?

 

[Holdfast]

Is there typically any difference between the waistband material used with flannels, as opposed to worsteds.

Strange question, I know, (and this refers to some MTM orders rather than bespoke) but anything with flannel comes back with a slightly stiffer waistband compared to worsteds. I never thought to ask - I assumed it just was my imagination, and both types feel fine - but now I read this thread I wonder if with potentially more fragile materials, a stiffer construction is chosen?

 

[Manton]

merkur