Stiff jacket lining

[lfd75]

Hi there, before the quarantine I e-thrifted a nice summer tweed jacket that I'd like to start wearing but the lining in the sleeves has become incredibly stiff. Is there a way to soften it?

Luis

 

[Despos]

turn the sleeves inside out and try steam. If it doesn't help have it cleaned. You probably did that since it is thrifted. Last thing is have a tailor remove the lining and replace with a softer sleeve lining.

 

[lfd75]

Thank you very much Despos! I'll try the steam trick as the jacket was indeed dry cleaned already.

 

[willyto]

turn the sleeves inside out and try steam. If it doesn't help have it cleaned. You probably did that since it is thrifted. Last thing is have a tailor remove the lining and replace with a softer sleeve lining.

Would that be a difficult operation for someone who knows how to sew?

I've been wondering about replacing the sleeve lining of one of my summer jackets with something more smooth and breathable. I have a few sleeve linings from old jackets. I guess the widht of such lining is important.

 

[Keith Taylor]

No, any monkey with a needle and thread should be able to replace a sleeve lining The body requires a little more skill, but the sleeves are a piece of cake as far as technical skills go. It’s can be a little time consuming if you want perfect presentation, of course, or if you need to work around working cuffs rather than simply reattach in a straight line.

 

[Despos]

Would that be a difficult operation for someone who knows how to sew?

A few pointers to help you.
Use the existing lining you are replacing as a pattern to cut the new lining. Take the old lining out and undo the two long seams and press each piece flat. Pin the old sleeve pieces to the new fabric and cut. Or trace the lining pieces onto paper and create a pattern.
When the new sleeve lining is sewn together you attach the long seams of the lining to the seams of the cloth sleeve first before doing anything else. One point; don’t press open the seams of the lining. Press both outlets to one side. This will be the same as the old lining you removed, use the old lining as a visual guide.
Turn the cloth sleeves inside out to tack the sleeve lining with long loose stitches to the inseam and outer seam of the cloth sleeve. Pay attention how this was done when removing the old sleeve lining. This can be tricky to figure out how to align the lining to the sleeve because you are placing the lining against the cloth in a mirrored image way. You will understand the confusion when you get to this point. Make sure the sleeve lining is slightly looser than the cloth sleeve.
This step holds the lining in place along the cloth sleeve and will help you be sure the sleeve lining isn’t too short when you baste it at the hem and the armhole. If the lining is tight at all along the seams it will cause wrinkles on the cloth; visible from the outside when the sleeve is hanging. The sleeve won’t hang naturally if the lining is tight, short or twisting.
Hardest part of replacing the sleeve lining is sewing it around the armhole. Just like the cloth sleeve, the lining will be a couple inches larger in circumference than the armhole and you have to “work” the extra fabric in as fullness. Important to distribute this fullness evenly around the armhole. This is essential.
Before you start sewing the lining around the armhole, tack in place the two points where the seams of the lining meet the seams of the cloth on the armhole. This keeps the lining from twisting and gives you two fixed points to divide the extra fullness. This will make more sense when you start to do the sewing. When you tack those two points it gives you fixed starting points for the hand sewing.
Soft, light weight lining can be tricky to cut and sew. It moves and shifts as you handle it.

This whole process is harder to do because the sleeves are attached to the jacket and you have the bulk of the garment to handle. When the jacket was made, the sleeve lining is attached before the sleeves are put on the jacket. Easier to do when the sleeves are separate from the jacket.
Would be interested to know how long this takes you to complete. Post your results here.

 

[Despos]

Thank you very much Despos! I'll try the steam trick as the jacket was indeed dry cleaned already.

Wonder if the lining stiffened up from the cleaning fluids your cleaner uses. This was common when most cleaners used perc. If that is the cause, cleaning at an eco friendly cleaners who uses a different cleaning solution might rectify it.

 

[willyto]

A few pointers to help you.
Use the existing lining you are replacing as a pattern to cut the new lining. Take the old lining out and undo the two long seams and press each piece flat. Pin the old sleeve pieces to the new fabric and cut. Or trace the lining pieces onto paper and create a pattern.
When the new sleeve lining is sewn together you attach the long seams of the lining to the seams of the cloth sleeve first before doing anything else. One point; don’t press open the seams of the lining. Press both outlets to one side. This will be the same as the old lining you removed, use the old lining as a visual guide.
Turn the cloth sleeves inside out and tack the sleeve lining with long loose stitches to the inseam and outer seam of the cloth sleeve. Make sure it is slightly looser than the cloth sleeve. Pay attention how this was done when you remove the old lining.
This step holds the lining in place along the cloth sleeve and will help you be sure the sleeve lining isn’t too short when you baste it at the hem and the armhole. If the lining is tight at all along the seams it will cause wrinkles on the cloth; visible from the outside when the sleeve is hanging. The sleeve won’t hang naturally if the lining is tight, short or twisting.
Hardest part of replacing the sleeve lining is sewing it around the armhole. Just like the cloth sleeve, the lining will be a couple inches larger in circumference than the armhole and you have to “work” the extra fabric in as fullness. Important to distribute this fullness evenly around the armhole. This is essential.
Before you start sewing the lining around the armhole, tack in place the two points where the seams of the lining meet the seams of the cloth on the armhole. This keeps the lining from twisting and gives you two fixed points to divide the extra fullness. This will make more sense when you start to do the sewing. When you tack those two points it gives you fixed starting points for the hand sewing.
Soft, light weight lining can be tricky to cut and sew. It moves and shifts as you handle it.

This whole process is harder to do because the sleeves are attached to the jacket and you have the bulk of the garment to handle. When the jacket was made, the sleeve lining is attached before the sleeves are put on the jacket. Easier to do when the sleeves are separate from the jacket.
Would be interested to know how long this takes you to complete. Post your results here.

Wow! I really appreciate the very detailed guide. Thank you. I will save the post.

Usually my grandmother is the one to help me do all my suit alterations but in the current situation is not possible, I'm trying to learn myself to do the basic stuff and I've got a long way to go.

When I get around to do this modification I will share but it's a long term project for now.

 

[Despos]

Wow! I really appreciate the very detailed guide. Thank you. I will save the post.

Usually my grandmother is the one to help me do all my suit alterations but in the current situation is not possible, I'm trying to learn myself to do the basic stuff and I've got a long way to go.

When I get around to do this modification I will share but it's a long term project for now.

Tried to outline the sequence of steps beginning to end. Thought it would be helpful if you are attempting this for a first time.

 

[Despos]

One more thing to know. The sleeve lining is .75” longer at the top of the sleeve and the bottom curve than the cloth sleeve. .75” longer/bigger all around the circumference of the sleeve head. You have to be sure of this and not cut the sleeve lining equal to the cloth sleeve.

 

[lfd75]

Thank you very much @Despos steaming did the trick.

 

[Despos]

Thank you very much @Despos steaming did the trick.

simple solutions are the best!