Steven Aver - Vests

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Steven Aver

A few I found a few db examples scouring SF and AAAC:

Manton Pic

http://www.pakeman.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=1992


The two styles I think are the most practical to add in addition to a standard 5 or 6 button non lapel:

The light blue vest at the bottom is the 6 X 5 button SB vest (which has four welt pockets on the front exterior of the vest-two upper, one left and one right and two lower, one left and one right, all with none of the following: flap, security pocket design and tab) with a notch lapel that I have been speaking of and strongly recommending that Steven Aver offers.

Of course, that light blue SB vest is high cut. And, the notch lapel on that light blue SB vest is a little more than two inches wide (and the lapel points a bit downward). And, the angle on the center of the bottom of the front of that light blue SB vest is straight away (angled and pointed) but a little more on the pointed (i.e. non spread) side.

Steven Aver should offer all of their made to measure vests with the following details:

1.\tPick stitching and no pick stitching.
2.\tFish mouth opening at the center of the bottom of each side of the vest. Rear half of these fish mouth openings should be just as long as or 1½ inches longer (but absolutely never shorter) than front half of the fish mouth only.
3.\tFull rear with a width adjustable strap with a choice of two buttons or a metal buckle as well as the choice of no strap and a choice of lining or shell fabric.
4.\tNo rear other than two straps (top and bottom of rear) that are width adjustable with a choice of two buttons or metal buckle.
5.\tLow cut (a three inch wide lapel for SB and a four inch wide lapel for DB).
6.\tMedium cut (also with a two inch wide lapel for SB and a four inch wide lapel for DB).
7.\tHigh cut (a two inch wide lapel for SB and a three inch wide lapel for DB).
8.\tWide angle bottom.
9.\tMedium width (half way between wide and narrow) angle bottom.
10.\tNarrow angle bottom.
11.\tPointed and angled bottom.
12.\tPointed and square bottom.
13.\tPointed and round bottom
14.\tNotch lapel.
15.\tPeak lapel.
16.\tShawl lapel.
17.\tNo lapel.
18.\tAll lapels should point a little bit more upward than downward.
19.\tTwo lower pockets (one left and one right).
20.\tFour pockets (two upper-one left and one right and two lower-one left and one right) and a choice of a bunch of different pocket choices.
21.\tThe following American style SB button configurations: three button to ten button.
22.\tThe following European (equally English and Italian) style SB button configurations: 4 X 3 button to 11 X 10 button.
23. The following DB button configurations: 4 X 2 button to 20 X 10 button.

The following pocket details and styles:

1.\tWelt.
2.\tJetted.
3.\tPatch.
4.\tStraight.
5.\tHacking.
6.\tSlanted.
7.\tFlap.
8.\tNo flap.

And, the following security pocket or fastening pocket designs:

1.\tButton closure with neither a flap nor a tab.
2.\tButton closure with a tab.
3.\tButton closure with a flap.
4.\tButton closure with a flap and a tab.
5.\tZipper closure with a choice of a flap or no flap (either way, with no tab).
6.\tNo security pocket design.

FWIW, Oxxford and possibly H. Freeman (which is not the same as Hickey Freeman and lower to substantially lower priced than Hickey Freeman, Oxxford and Samuelsohn) and Samuelsohn (priced about the same as Hickey Freeman and much lower priced than Oxxford) offer these options for the pockets on all of their made to measure tailored clothing.

 

[Master-Classter]

Some other examples, just to see what's out there...

 

[Butterfly]

The straight-bottomed hem is what I hate about a DB vest... maybe it'll grow on me though... The DB in the illustration above avoids having a straight line hem, but results consequently in a V-shaped button configuration that I hate almost as much as when it's on DB suitcoats ; ) I would go for a lapelled, high-buttoned SB vest with any style of lapel or number of buttons - maybe like 437 or 441 in the illustration.

 

[jagmqt]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

Some other examples, just to see what's out there...

I prefer these styles over all others mentioned...

Just my two bits. I can never find a vest long enough, so perhaps my vote shouldn't count.

jag

 

[Steven Aver]

Excellent writeup. Thank you for taking such time to go into as much detail as you have. I will take all of this into consideration.

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

The light blue vest at the bottom is the 6 X 5 button SB vest (which has four welt pockets on the front exterior of the vest-two upper, one left and one right and two lower, one left and one right, all with none of the following: flap, security pocket design and tab) with a notch lapel that I have been speaking of and strongly recommending that Steven Aver offers.

Of course, that light blue SB vest is high cut. And, the notch lapel on that light blue SB vest is a little more than two inches wide (and the lapel points a bit downward). And, the angle on the center of the bottom of the front of that light blue SB vest is straight away (angled and pointed) but a little more on the pointed (i.e. non spread) side.

Steven Aver should offer all of their made to measure vests with the following details:

1.\tPick stitching and no pick stitching.
2.\tFish mouth opening at the center of the bottom of each side of the vest. Rear half of these fish mouth openings should be just as long as or 1½ inches longer (but absolutely never shorter) than front half of the fish mouth only.
3.\tFull rear with a width adjustable strap with a choice of two buttons or a metal buckle as well as the choice of no strap and a choice of lining or shell fabric.
4.\tNo rear other than two straps (top and bottom of rear) that are width adjustable with a choice of two buttons or metal buckle.
5.\tLow cut (a three inch wide lapel for SB and a four inch wide lapel for DB).
6.\tMedium cut (also with a two inch wide lapel for SB and a four inch wide lapel for DB).
7.\tHigh cut (a two inch wide lapel for SB and a three inch wide lapel for DB).
8.\tWide angle bottom.
9.\tMedium width (half way between wide and narrow) angle bottom.
10.\tNarrow angle bottom.
11.\tPointed and angled bottom.
12.\tPointed and square bottom.
13.\tPointed and round bottom
14.\tNotch lapel.
15.\tPeak lapel.
16.\tShawl lapel.
17.\tNo lapel.
18.\tAll lapels should point a little bit more upward than downward.
19.\tTwo lower pockets (one left and one right).
20.\tFour pockets (two upper-one left and one right and two lower-one left and one right) and a choice of a bunch of different pocket choices.
21.\tThe following American style SB button configurations: three button to ten button.
22.\tThe following European (equally English and Italian) style SB button configurations: 4 X 3 button to 11 X 10 button.
23. The following DB button configurations: 4 X 2 button to 20 X 10 button.

The following pocket details and styles:

1.\tWelt.
2.\tJetted.
3.\tPatch.
4.\tStraight.
5.\tHacking.
6.\tSlanted.
7.\tFlap.
8.\tNo flap.

And, the following security pocket or fastening pocket designs:

1.\tButton closure with neither a flap nor a tab.
2.\tButton closure with a tab.
3.\tButton closure with a flap.
4.\tButton closure with a flap and a tab.
5.\tZipper closure with a choice of a flap or no flap (either way, with no tab).
6.\tNo security pocket design.

FWIW, Oxxford and possibly H. Freeman (which is not the same as Hickey Freeman and lower to substantially lower priced than Hickey Freeman, Oxxford and Samuelsohn) and Samuelsohn (priced about the same as Hickey Freeman and much lower priced than Oxxford) offer these options for the pockets on all of their made to measure tailored clothing.

 

[TheWraith]

I've always been a fan of the Poirot vest/suits. David Suchet as Poirot also wore one heckuva smoking jacket in the show.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Steven Aver

Excellent writeup. Thank you for taking such time to go into as much detail as you have. I will take all of this into consideration.

You are super welcome, Steven!

And, thank you for taking all of this into consideration.

BTW, with numbers 8 through 13 (the type of angle on the bottom), I meant the type of angle on the center of the bottom of the front of the vest.