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Stepping up to bespoke?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chorse123, Sep 21, 2006.

  1. dirk diggler

    dirk diggler Senior member

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    drop the crotch area an inch or so to you have more room
     
  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    chorse123, the jackets I have seen you wear seem quite well fitted. One area I think you will get a better fitting with bespoke is with the armholes and the fit of the jacket below the armpits because in most RTW they are a little loose (at least on me). However, if you think that the armhole fitting and chest fitting is very good in your RTW, then you may not get a much better fitting from bespoke.
     
  3. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    BUMP!

    Curious to hear more opinions on this given the number of people who probably now go bespoke via Chan, etc.
     
  4. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    honestly, here is what I would do - go to a good cloth store in Manhatton and buy cloth for 4 or 5 suits. Take you wife for a week to thailand. on the first day, get fitted for a suit in cheap fabric. if you like it, have 5 suits made in your good fabric, meanwhile, travel to an island for 4 or 5 days, lie around on the beach and drink local rum and and mango juice, eat thai food. coem back, pick up your suits, fly hom. cost you about the same as a bespoke suit from saville row, and, for your purposes, will be just as good.
    Sounds like a great idea except maybe bringing the wife to Thailand. [​IMG]
     
  5. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    ... Bespoke is all fine and dandy but it's one of those things where the incremental value is very small for the large sums above RTW that you are paying. ...
    Not being US based I can say that entry/mid level bespoke is generally less expensive than big RTW names and the results are very good.
    As an example Graham Browne can do a bespoke suit for less than 1000 GBP (1650 $) while an Attolini suit on STF is between 1549$ and 1999$
     
  6. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    ... I'd like to establish a relationship with a tailor ...
    The relationship is very important, I've had my first suit made by an old tailor and when I was finally won to bespoke ... he retired [​IMG] and I had to start searching again.
    So my advice is to look for a tailor about your age.
    BTW this evening I'll know if the quest will end [​IMG]
     
  7. ld111134

    ld111134 Senior member

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    Buenos Aires vacation + MTM suits.

    Oh how prophetic this proved to be. "Hiking the Appalachians" while secretly getting fitted.
     
  8. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

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    Not being US based I can say that entry/mid level bespoke is generally less expensive than big RTW names and the results are very good.

    That seems to be true in general.
     
  9. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    My first experience with bespoke was by no means perfect. I used a smaller local tailor with a good reputation but unfortunetly not the style that i had in mind. Luckily i didn't shell out what some others here have but it still left a bad taste in my mouth. It was certaintly a learning experience (costly) and I'm now knowledgable enough about fit and style to not make the same mistake again. I have done both Bespoke and MTM and out of the two I wear my MTM much more often then the Bespoke. The next suit or jacket i commission will be from WW Chan. I really like some of the things i have seen from them and the price is reasonable for me. If i was balling like Vox or Iammatt i would be at A&S or Rubinacci on a regular basis but alas now im dreaming.
     
  10. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    I'm curious to hear from some of you regarding your decision to order your first bespoke suit. When did you make the decision? What made up your mind? I'm toying with the idea right now. I don't have a huge need for a suit, nor do I even have the money right this moment, but it's something I would love to do, and am considering saving for one suit. I generally shop the super-discounts, but have been able to get a number of garments of very high quality which I love and which fit well, though far from perfectly.

    Of course, for the cost of Option A (one true bespoke suit, say, $4000), I could order Option B: a MTM suit, MTM jacket (or two), and a few pairs of trousers from someone like Mr. Ned. Oh and a pair of special order Gaziano Girling shoes.

    Oddly enough, I think my wife would probably support Option A more. Then again, it would probably mean I couldn't buy anything ever again without catching some grief.


    I'd go with Steven Aver MTM and save the rest of your money for a holiday or anything else you might need right now.
     
  11. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    I've found a MTM maker that I like very much considering his very reasonable prices (~ $900 for two piece suit, full canvas, H&S basic worsted). I have been building my suit wardrobe using this fellow, and will continue to do so for at least a few more years until I have a really solid rotation of well-fitting suits (~ 12-15). At some point I would love to get a full bespoke suit, if for no other reason than to try it out. I think when the time comes, however, it will be from a tailor that is well respected, is accessible for multiple fittings, and is reasonably priced - this really only leaves the HK tailors while in HK. At that point I trust that I will be versed enough to guide the process very well and be satisfied with the outcome.
     
  12. baba-au-rhum

    baba-au-rhum Member

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    I've found a MTM maker that I like very much considering his very reasonable prices (~ $900 for two piece suit, full canvas, H&S basic worsted). I have been building my suit wardrobe using this fellow, and will continue to do so for at least a few more years until I have a really solid rotation of well-fitting suits (~ 12-15). At some point I would love to get a full bespoke suit, if for no other reason than to try it out. I think when the time comes, however, it will be from a tailor that is well respected, is accessible for multiple fittings, and is reasonably priced - this really only leaves the HK tailors while in HK. At that point I trust that I will be versed enough to guide the process very well and be satisfied with the outcome.


    Hi,
    I had my first bespoke suit made around the age of ten --in the mid-sixties-- by the tailor at Old England (Paris). It was a charcoal grey flannel, two-vent affair, with braces trouser turnups. My mum also bought me the shoes, tie, shirt, etc. to go with it. I was hooked for the rest of my life!
    I have had suits made wherever and whenever, and the pure joy of it is in the process of choosing the cloth, agreeing with the tailor on the suit's cut, and then reliving all that when you actually wear it. In times of hardship, I would say, go for Austin Reed, Regent's St., London, and wait for their annual sale so you can have a rebate thrown in.
     
  13. reachforit108

    reachforit108 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 17, 2009
    Location:
    dc
    I've found a MTM maker that I like very much considering his very reasonable prices (~ $900 for two piece suit, full canvas, H&S basic worsted). I have been building my suit wardrobe using this fellow, and will continue to do so for at least a few more years until I have a really solid rotation of well-fitting suits (~ 12-15). At some point I would love to get a full bespoke suit, if for no other reason than to try it out. I think when the time comes, however, it will be from a tailor that is well respected, is accessible for multiple fittings, and is reasonably priced - this really only leaves the HK tailors while in HK. At that point I trust that I will be versed enough to guide the process very well and be satisfied with the outcome.
    Louche, Which MTM maker do you use? are they available in dc, as i am interested in finding a good MTM provider in dc?
     
  14. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    English American Clothiers in Westminster, MD. They are about an hour and a half from DC, hour from Baltimore. PM me with further interest. Like I said, not up to the pedantic level of perfection espoused here, but damn nice for the money. I always get compliments on all but the most staid basics that I have gotten there.
     

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