If I'm doing custom, I want it to be in New York, with fittings. I'd like to establish a relationship with a tailor. If it's a bespoke tailor like Shattuck or Raphael, I may not be able to order anything for another couple of years, but I want the option. Also, from what I've read about Shattuck, he's a perfectionist, and I'm not worried about being disappointed so long as I know what I'm after. I've tried other things like overseas tailors, and though I have some good garments, I don't want to make small compromises on fit any more, especially if it's on a custom garment. I wouldn't say that I'm set for clothes, but I'm no longer in the heavy building stage. I have four very nice fall/winter sportcoats, plus a few that are just okay, two spring/summer coats, and about a half dozen suits: grey tropical wool; black year round, which never gets worn; blue pinstripe in a nice thick english worsted which never gets worn; navy with windowpanes single breasted peaked lapel for spring/summer/fall which does; three piece dogtooth for fall/winter, which I can split and wear separately. Also around twenty Jantzen shirts, with more on the way, fifteen pairs of shoes, thirty ties, a dozen pocket squares, two overcoats, three casual jackets, probably two dozen sweaters, etc. I wear a coat around two days a week, though more lately, and a suit very rarely, partly because most of them are too dressy. If I had a bespoke suit made, I would want it to be slightly more casual - a medium grey flannel or grey flannel with windowpane perhaps. I'm not a terribly tough fit, but not easy - I have long legs and very wide hips.