Stefano Bemer Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I am trying to figure out if the cheaper bespoke option of stefano bemer "is worth it", it seems like they only offer a choice of already existing lasts. I thought the beauty of bespoke is the custom last just for your feet - am I missing something? Why is it called bespoke, isn't it essentially MTO? I guess the difference is that I can actually design my own shoes?!?

Our Blue Bespoke, instead, does not allow the customization of the sole (it comes bevelled, no fiddle back) and height of the heel (but you can indeed request to shave it slightly inward, in the Cuban style). We use our traditional 1940 Duer stitching machine to stitch the fore-foot portion of the sole (while we hand-stitch the shanks) onto the welt (which is always hand sawn in each of our lines). Our Blue bespoke service currently starts at 2650.00 €.

1. First Appointment : design, skin, and last selected and measurements taken. We are always on the move, please check our trunk show agenda to see if we are in your area.
2. Second Appointment : after about 6-8 weeks, we will call you in for the preliminary fitting.
3. Shipment : after 10-12 weeks, we ship all orders to you using FedEx (3-5 days for delivery).

It is more a MTM service with many modifications on the last.. Think Saint Crispin's service with a MTM aspect along with the modifications.

The full bespoke is the best option they offer for the price. For that kind of money, the Blue Bespoke pricing structure, may not be worth it...for context my Blue Bespoke was considerably less about €1950 or so.

If you are in the U.S., Francis Waplinger, whose work I have seen, is the same price as the Blue Bespoke but full bespoke.

 

[dauster]

It is more a MTM service with many modifications on the last.. Think Saint Crispin's service with a MTM aspect along with the modifications.

The full bespoke is the best option they offer for the price. For that kind of money, the Blue Bespoke pricing structure, may not be worth it...for context my Blue Bespoke was considerably less about €1950 or so.

If you are in the U.S., Francis Waplinger, whose work I have seen, is the same price as the Blue Bespoke but full bespoke.

Thank you very much - as always great feedback. How long ago was it that you only paid €1950? Seems like that they raised prices significantly.

 

[dauster]

This is a good article to check out to compare the prices (aproximate)

Buyer's guide - Bespoke prices - Shoegazing.com

For those who want to get an overview of the prices among different manufacturers of bespoke shoes, a lot of research is needed. Until today. Here's a

shoegazing.se

Thank you, indeed great article.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thank you very much - as always great feedback. How long ago was it that you only paid €1950? Seems like that they raised prices significantly.

Absolutely welcome.
It was two and a half years ago while in Florence. Late 2016 (October IIRC) so closer to three years.

 

[Encore]

J last in blue calf

 

[Encore]

How would you guys describe SB's arch support?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

How would you guys describe SB's arch support?

Arch support is very good. I would place it with AM, but not to the level of St.C. For me, St.C has to be the stiffest arch support in the business (RTW). Saying that, you should have plenty of support with SB.

 

[Encore]

Arch support is very good. I would place it with AM, but not to the level of St.C. For me, St.C has to be the stiffest arch support in the business (RTW). Saying that, you should have plenty of support with SB.

Thanks, I have a pair of JX monk, the shoes doesn't fit right but I keep not getting why....I assume it's due to the high instep (my instep is low), I tried using an additional insole, but the side of my big toe is badly scratched. I am gonna try a tongue pad later. I really like the shape of JX, would be such a pity if I cannot wear it...

I tried using an Orchotic and but with that, my 4th and 5th toes hurt a lot.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thanks, I have a pair of JX monk, the shoes doesn't fit right but I keep not getting why....I assume it's due to the high instep (my instep is low), I tried using an additional insole, but the side of my big toe is badly scratched. I am gonna try a tongue pad later. I really like the shape of JX, would be such a pity if I cannot wear it...

I tried using an Orchotic and but with that, my 4th and 5th toes hurt a lot.

I feel like most Italian shoemakers (AM, EB, SB, amongst others) make their shoes for people with higher insteps. Consequently, that is why I prefer those makeups over others.

Based on what you are saying, it definitely sounds like the shoe is big across the throat line, but tight across the toe box. I would say that the inner toe box was not finished properly (which would be unlikely considering SB's exceptional finish), but you can verify that.

I had something similar happening to me with a pair of Corthay (low instep & tight toe box). I promptly sent the shoes to the cobbler who stretched them out in the appropriate places. They are golden now. Perhaps try the same, but with the additional insole?

 

[Encore]

I feel like most Italian shoemakers (AM, EB, SB, amongst others) make their shoes for people with higher insteps. Consequently, that is why I prefer those makeups over others.

Based on what you are saying, it definitely sounds like the shoe is big across the throat line, but tight across the toe box. I would say that the inner toe box was not finished properly (which would be unlikely considering SB's exceptional finish), but you can verify that.

I had something similar happening to me with a pair of Corthay (low instep & tight toe box). I promptly sent the shoes to the cobbler who stretched them out in the appropriate places. They are golden now. Perhaps try the same, but with the additional insole?

Thanks, I think the shoe's length is just a bit too long for me, the toe box will work fine if I have some pressure from the instep to stop my feet from moving forward. therefore I tried to use a tongue pad to fix this. Tried it on with tongue pad for in house walking which seems fine, but need more testing tho... lol

 

[Kobletas]

Stefano Bemer's T last seems to be better suited for low instep, wide toebox feet

 

[FlorentineArtis]

So i couldn't find anyone discussing this brand. So i decided to start one.
http://stefanobemer.com
Does anyone have any experience with their shoes ?

So i couldn't find anyone discussing this brand. So i decided to start one.
http://stefanobemer.com
Does anyone have any experience with their shoes ?

Hello,
Yes, I most definitely have experience with the original Stefano Bemer; he was my brother and we worked together until his passing in 2012. The Brand "Stefano Bemer", was purchased and is now produced on a much larger scale. I have continued working and handcrafting shoes under my own name, honoring my brother by carrying on our philosophy of traditional handcrafted shoe making (of course my type of craftsmanship only allows for a limited quantity and my customers must have the patience to wait!). I can personally vouch for the quality of any shoe purchased at our shop in San Frediano before 2013.
Mario Bemer

 

[LThomsen]

Can any one share their experience with SB rtw shoes (essential line) in terms of quality, fit and finishing compared to AM, Stc, G & G, etc?

 

[Encore]

Some side by side shots of Stefano Bemer J series Shoes.

Left in JS, Aniline + Inca leather.
Middle in J, crust leather, re-patina by a local artist.
Right in JX, Horsefront leather.

 

[Encore]

Tradizione Double Monk in TX lastX replica leather.