Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by uppercase, Oct 26, 2004.
Does anyone have any experience in working with this London-based tailor?
I was generally happy with Steed. My first suit surprised me: it was dramatically different from anything I had ever owned. There is no mistaking it for anything but a bespoke suit. The silhouette is not exaclty subtle. Swelled chest and very pinched waist. Curved, "belly cut" lapels. Edwin also makes something like a true natural shoulder "drape" suit. One difference, however, is that he does not extend the shoulderline, but ends it right on the deltoid. There is almost no padding. The shoulder seam cants backward; the "backneck" or "pupilla" measurement is a perfect 3". The chest cloth truly "drapes" from the shoulder seam. Hard to do well.
The coat is very, very comfortable. And it really "sticks": you can flail your arms in all directions and the collar of the jacket will never lift so much as a millimeter off the back of your neck.
Thanks for the post, Manton. The "drape" cut suit you describe sounds exactly what I am looking for, particularly as it doesn't extend beyond the shoulder. I believe that the suit illustrated on their website http://www.steed.co.uk under "bespoke" is an example of a drape cut? Did you have your suit made during the period when Steed was a partnership between Thomas/Edwin or post-partnership; is the present owner, Edwin, a cutter/tailor and are you aware of any differences in the pre and post-partnership product? Thanks, upper
Check the PM I sent you.
As to the picture on the website, I must say it does not look like what they made for me. It looks like a drape cut, but much looser and baggier than what they made for me. But it is hard to tell, since we can't see the whole suit.
Many thanks for your post Manton.
I just saw your PM.
I've had two suits made by Mr. DeBois and the are very well done and extremely comfortable. He is very anxious for you to be completely happy with your suit. A most pleasant experience.
Any connection with the fellow who goes around with Wildsmith and Hilditch/Key?
Edwin has a brother named John, but I thought that John had his own firm.
Has anyone ever tried their advertised RTW option? 640GBP and you seemingly can pick from a limited number of fabrics and linings, as well as specify details (number of buttons, ticket pocket, etc.) Sounds more like MTM than RTW to me.
If anyone knows, are these "RTW" slim cut? If so, this sounds like something I might look into.
I have an MTM, Navy Blue 2-button Suit from them. It fits and wears very well. There's nothing at all about this suit that attracts attention. It just looks and feels good without being conspicuous.
Edwin De Boise isa third generation tailor trained by Anderson and Shepherd. He has a good reputation on the web boards although I have never personally purchased from him,
His son has now joined his business.
The voxsartoria blog has numerous photographs of Steed's work. Yesterday's post show the attention to detail on button holes.
As you scroll through the Steed examples on that blog, please bear in mind that the garments shown reflect some very specific styling nuances requested by one very particular gentleman.
Separate names with a comma.