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Steed (E. DeBoise) Bespoke Suit and Dinner Jacket/Trousers Fittings

voxsartoria

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Here are some fitting (forward fitting on the suit, basted fitting on the dinner jacket and trousers, although these are approximations with traveling tailors) photographs from this afternoon with my bespoke tailor, Edwin DeBoise, proprietor of Steed, who was in Boston visiting clients.

The first is a SB, three button suit made from the brown nailhead from the new Lesser 9.5/10 ounce book, the other is a DB dinner jacket and trousers in a Fisher (the blackest black I have ever seen, and the only reason why I changed my mind from doing a midnight blue...it is deep black in every light).

Nothing really controversial in either: the first has a out ticket pocket; the latter has a fishtail back for the trousers (sorry, no good photo of this). Flat fronts on the trousers; two inch cuffs on the suit.

Don't mind the shirt...it does not fit well.

There were quite a lot of adjustments.

I hope that you find the photographs amusing.

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279605902_RSJEQ-O.jpg
 

itsstillmatt

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Looks nice. Is it your choice, or standard Steed, to have such a high roll on the SB?
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by iammatt
Looks nice. Is it your choice, or standard Steed, to have such a high roll on the SB?

SR tailors generally do either a natural three button, or a natural two/one button. Traditionally, they tend not to like to roll it another way.

In practice, with his stuff, it eases to about 2.5. On a three button, I only button the second when standing, but then I like to button only the top when I am sitting down, so the standard SR roll on the three works for me.

It also works better this way with the more closed quarters on mine...if the quarters were more open like on yours, it wouldn't work.

- B
 

aportnoy

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Very nice B,what's the cloth on the SB? I'm definitely doing a sharkskin next.
 

Manton

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That brown nailhead is one of the nicest cloths I have ever seen. I have a piece of it sitting in a shop, awaiting money.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by aportnoy
Very nice B,what's the cloth on the SB? I'm definitely doing a sharkskin next.

It's the brown nailhead from the new Lesser 9.5/10 book...it is like the dream three season book for Northeast US weather, in my opinion.

Edwin also thinks it makes up very well. I'm doing an ermazine lining in this one.

- B
 

aportnoy

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Very nice. I love that book, too.
 

A Y

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
SR tailors generally do either a natural three button, or a natural two/one button. Traditionally, they tend not to like to roll it another way.

Interesting. My Mahon 3-button looks like a 2-button with an extra hole and button, but its roll is pretty low.

--Andre
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Andre Yew
Interesting. My Mahon 3-button looks like a 2-button with an extra hole and button, but its roll is pretty low.

--Andre


Yes, I believe that the one SR exception is A&S: the 3 roll 2 (just like the BB version with exposed buttonhole) is a classic A&S buttoning configuration. So, it would not surprise me if Tom uses this in his repertoire. I seem to recall a photograph of a coat on his blog belonging either to Anderson or Sheppard...a tweed 3 roll 2.

I was speaking more generally, however, of what is traditional on SR.

- B
 

Eustace Tilley

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Very nice vox. I noticed that there is a moderate amount of waist suppression on the coat - was this your preference or is this an indication of the Steed style? Or am I just assuming too much looking at a basted garment?
 

Eustace Tilley

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Btw, that brown nailhead fabric is spectacular
icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Very nice vox. I noticed that there is a moderate amount of waist suppression on the coat - was this your preference or is this an indication of the Steed style? Or am I just assuming too much looking at a basted garment?

Thank you, E.

Yes, you are correct...when they are finished, there will be quite a bit of waist suppression for draped coats. This is the main feature that I would say has changed over the years with my commisions, and it is by my choice.

Edwin trained with Sexton/Nutter before going on to A&S, so he might have more waist supression in his DNA that most A&S cutters. I do think, nonetheless, there is quite a bit of shaping to a Scholte-derived coat that its reputation for being draped and sweater-y overshadows in the general imagination.

- B
 

Eustace Tilley

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Thank you, E.

Yes, you are correct...when they are finished, there will be quite a bit of waist suppression for draped coats. This is the main feature that I would say has changed over the years with my commisions, and it is by my choice.

Edwin trained with Nutter and Sexton before going on to A&S, so he might have more waist supression in his DNA that most A&S cutters. I do think, nonetheless, there is quite a bit of shaping to a Scholte-derived coat that its reputation for being draped and sweater-y overshadows in the general imagination.

- B


Thank you vox.
 

EasyGoing

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All of these pictures make me eager to switch to bespoke.

Great tie.
 

mmkn

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Edwin trained with Nutter and Sexton before going on to A&S
- B


Interesting, as Jon Green just told me that the person making my next suit won't be Edward Sexton (as he's busy launching a possible RTW line) but someone just as artisanal who is new to the team, and Mr. DeBoise just posted on London Lounge (as The Doctor I believe) that he met Jon this past January . . . I'm connecting the dots for myself here . . .

Either way, may I ask what the cloth is? I'm considering between the Barathea and a lighter weight (i.e. slightly cooler) black Faille weave for my Dinner Jacket and Trousers in the same styling as yours.

Thanks,

- M
 

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