Starting highend wardrobe from scratch

[Ging07]

Hey guys, in a few months I am going to be needing to go from my normal jeans t-shirt job to a high end wardrobe. I was told to shop for shoes first then get the pants to match that then move to shirts. I am thinking of going high end shoes like Bontoni or Berluti. I was also hoping to get 10-12 bespoke shirts, but i don't know from where yet.

So my 3 questions are...

In what order should I pick everything up?

I have to fly from South America and do this all within roughly a week's time. I am not sure if I can get bespoke shirts made that quickly because I have to wear them and wash them a few times. Any suggestions?

Best city to do all this in? I was thinking probably NYC or Los Angeles, but really even going to Europe flights will be about the same, but don't know if it will be faster/better/cheaper.

Thanks guys.

Ging

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Europe probably would be the best place for bespoke (and some parts thereof would be cheaper than NYC or LA), but why not South America for some of that? Also, why the need for so much bespoke? Might as well buy some off-the-rack dress shirts first to develop tastes and preferences. Plus, ordering several bespoke items from one new maker is a bad idea. Order the mininum, then (for shirts) reorder later if satisfied. Measurements can be stored on file.

 

[Macallan]



H
I have to fly from South America and do this all within roughly a week's time.

Go to Scotland and get drunk at the distrilleries

Seriously, stick to South America or travel to the US. Start with shirts (however, not if you want it complete within a week), then look at trousers and jackets/shoes.

 

[Ging07]

Europe probably would be the best place for bespoke (and some parts thereof would be cheaper than NYC or LA), but why not South America for some of that? Also, why the need for so much bespoke? Might as well buy some off-the-rack dress shirts first to develop tastes and preferences. Plus, ordering several bespoke items from one new maker is a bad idea. Order the mininum, then (for shirts) reorder later if satisfied. Measurements can be stored on file.

South American designers don't do a lot of bespoke and taxes are very high here so imported quality fabrics are therefore more expensive. For example an avg dress shirt from Boss is roughly $220 U$. So for a bit more and a nice vacation I could go get it all done with great quality. Thanks for your feedback, what city would you recommend? I was thinking either London or Paris. I have friends in both, any advise on either?

 

[globetrotter]

where are you in south america? honestly, I'd go with bogota, Lima, Santiago or BA, in each you can get a great wardrobe cheaper than in the US.

 

[Ging07]

where are you in south america? honestly, I'd go with bogota, Lima, Santiago or BA, in each you can get a great wardrobe cheaper than in the US.

Cheaper yes, but my concern is on the quality. You think I can pickup really quality shoes from a city like Bogota? To be honest I have been through there a lot but never properly shopped.

 

[globetrotter]



Cheaper yes, but my concern is on the quality.  You think I can pickup really quality shoes from a city like Bogota?  To be honest I have been through there a lot but never properly shopped.  

actually shoes would be the weak link, but you can get excellent bespoke shirts in bogota, and I think pretty reasonable suits, too - now let me qualify that, if saville row is an option, then do it. if you are looking at high end designer made to messure or off the rack, I would definatly do bespoke in South America. a lot of the high end brand shirt fabrics in Europe are from Peruvian mills, and you can get pretty good, not the very top end, but pretty good fabric there.

 

[Ging07]

actually shoes would be the weak link, but you can get excellent bespoke shirts in bogota, and I think pretty reasonable suits, too - now let me qualify that, if saville row is an option, then do it. if you are looking at high end designer made to messure or off the rack, I would definatly do bespoke in South America. a lot of the high end brand shirt fabrics in Europe are from Peruvian mills, and you can get pretty good, not the very top end, but pretty good fabric there.

Ok, maybe I will just go see some friends in NYC then and go shoe shopping... man I feel like such a girl saying that, but really a good pair of shoes makes a difference. Any ideas on who I could contact in Bogota?

 

[David Reeves]



Europe probably would be the best place for bespoke (and some parts thereof would be cheaper than NYC or LA), but why not South America for some of that? Also, why the need for so much bespoke? Might as well buy some off-the-rack dress shirts first to develop tastes and preferences. Plus, ordering several bespoke items from one new maker is a bad idea. Order the mininum, then (for shirts) reorder later if satisfied. Measurements can be stored on file.

There is another way of looking at this though and I'll give you my perspective. Buying a lot of things at once is good for convenience and you can build a wardrobe quicker and more cohesively because your ordering things together that go together, say a sportcoat and matching trousers or several shirts that match a certain suit very well.

I have a new client that got promoted recently. He said he was the worst dressed in the office and wanted to become the best. He ordered one suit and at his try on ordered 4 more on Friday. Already hes a top client straight away doing that, so I'm appreciative of his business I know he's no tyre kicker and he's going to get the very, very best of care. Case in point he wasn't fussy about what cloth or style to go for and I ordered him a charcoal Grey Amadeus cloth which of course is a fine enough cloth, When I got that in, on a whim, I decided to replace it with Golden Bale in the same color, it's twice the price but I just wanted to give him something extra. I don't sell ties right now but I'm going to take him shopping at Turnbull and Asser, I'll probably be able to wrangle him a discount there as well. For his shoes I'm going to introduce him to my friends at Cleverley and make sure he's looked after there as well.

 

[Ging07]

There is another way of looking at this though and I'll give you my perspective. Buying a lot of things at once is good for convenience and you can build a wardrobe quicker and more cohesively because your ordering things together that go together, say a sportcoat and matching trousers or several shirts that match a certain suit very well.
I have a new client that got promoted recently. He said he was the worst dressed in the office and wanted to become the best. He ordered one suit and at his try on ordered 4 more on Friday. Already hes a top client straight away doing that, so I'm appreciative of his business I know he's no tyre kicker and he's going to get the very, very best of care. Case in point he wasn't fussy about what cloth or style to go for and I ordered him a charcoal Grey Amadeus cloth which of course is a fine enough cloth, When I got that in, on a whim, I decided to replace it with Golden Bale in the same color, it's twice the price but I just wanted to give him something extra. I don't sell ties right now but I'm going to take him shopping at Turnbull and Asser, I'll probably be able to wrangle him a discount there as well. For his shoes I'm going to introduce him to my friends at Cleverley and make sure he's looked after there as well.

Sooooo.... David what are you saying... it is a good idea or bad idea to go slam it out all at once? All I understood was you have a client doing the same thing and you are getting him a discount at T&A.

 

[Gdot]

If you go to NYC to shop shoes you might go to Leffot to see the Corthay shoes. They might be right down your alley.

www.leffot.com

http://www.corthay.fr/corthay_en.html

Leffot has quite a few other stellar makers represented in their store. You might find that Bontoni and Berluti are not your only, or best, choices. Not that either are bad construction wise. But neither are truly exceptional without their incredible finishes.

Now if the finishes are THE thing for you then rock on.

 

[clapeyron]

Sooooo.... David what are you saying... it is a good idea or bad idea to go slam it out all at once? All I understood was you have a client doing the same thing and you are getting him a discount at T&A.

essentially all he did was humble bragging... nice job, though david.


in my opinion get your shirts and suits in south america, they will be able to sell you the same high end fabric as those in the US and every capital city will have a decent artisan. It's always better if you settle on one maker - after you've tried a few different ones - that is near you. Don't order all the suits by one guy at first, read a few reviews and commission one suit at each of your picks at the same time, so you will find out whose style suits you best. There a lot of capable tailors whose work is terrific however they might not be willing to cater the style that you are looking for. If one tailor convinces you, give him the rest of your business.

later on you might want to make a trip to europe and visit a tailor in italy or england.

for shoes I'd start by finding the right size and last and then I'd opt for Made To Order shoes from a British maker. Nothing wrong with Italian or Hungarian makers, simply a matter of taste. this way you don't really need to travel since they will be delivered to you.

knock yourself out with ties, in fact there are quite a few sellers on styleforum, vanda, samhober, henry carter.

In my opinion it's best to start out slow and let your taste develop before you end up with a bulk of purchases that you regret.
for inspiration check out this best of thread: http://www.styleforum.net/forum/newestpost/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010

oh, and please keep us posted and update us with pictures.

 

[Ging07]

If you go to NYC to shop shoes you might go to Leffot to see the Corthay shoes. They might be right down your alley.
www.leffot.com
http://www.corthay.fr/corthay_en.html
Leffot has quite a few other stellar makers represented in their store. You might find that Bontoni and Berluti are not your only, or best, choices. Not that either are bad construction wise. But neither are truly exceptional without their incredible finishes.
Now if the finishes are THE thing for you then rock on.

Yes I actually called Berluti today to ask if there is any online catalog that i can order shoes and ask some questions. He told me that they recommend I wear the shoes for 3/4 months to get the shoes broken in and then mail the shoes back to them to get their finish painted on them. The guy also told me they were opening a store at the start of next year in Miami.. for any Floridians here. I didn't realize they were 2000-2500 per pair... I was expecting more like 1000-1500

 

[David Reeves]



Sooooo.... David what are you saying... it is a good idea or bad idea to go slam it out all at once?  All I understood was you have a client doing the same thing and you are getting him a discount at T&A.

Well I changed out a cloth for something superior, thats also much more expensive without him even asking me to. I cut $500 off my margin in real terms just to make him a better suit, just because I wanted to, of course with an order like that you can afford to do things like that. I am actually going to take him to Turnbull and Cleverley and personal shop for him. This chap didn't ask for a discount on his order but he's getting value, expertise and bonuses in other ways.

I have another guy building a wardrobe and he got a discount because it was a serious order. When he goes into Drakes to order his ties he wont be talking to the manager he will be talking to the design director because I set it up. Things like discounts, personal shopping, free upgrades on materials etc are extra things you can afford as a business to do for a client who is giving you serious business. So thats the upside I think in dealing with the maker.

As I said though, you also get your wardrobe faster and it can be planned and put together more cohesively.

There is of course the fear that spending a lot of money with one maker can be a mistake but if they have any business sense at all they will treat you like royalty.

 

[Gdot]

Ask every tailor you visit for referrals or suggestions for everything else he doesn't offer (shirts, shoes, belts, ties, squares, socks). These guys will usually send you to good stores and more importantly still, good sales associates. These guys will know how to put things together. Sometimes the tailor and his associates will put entire wardrobes together for you. If you are really starting from nowhere this is a good way to get a good two week rotation up and running quickly. After that you can take some time to understand more about where to go next. And you will have developed some good resources in the process.

This is a pricy venture to do at all well. Right away you need about 5 suits, 3 sport jackets, 3 odd trou, 5 pairs of shoes etc. etc. just to get through a month without looking like you wear the same thing everyday.