Starting from scratch (again)

[Costanza]

I'm starting a new consulting business in Toronto that is aimed mostly at corporate interior designers. For the most part my work can be done without personal meetings so I don't yet need an extensive business wardrobe, but I will need to make the odd meeting while executing a marketing plan that culminates in the middle term by my spending two days in a booth at a trade show for interior designers next fall.

I want to make the right impression: business-like but not too conservative. I'm 52 (but look about 45), 6'-4" with a small to medium frame, 190 lbs., and fairly fit. I work out frequently and run ever more slowly with my size 13 feet.

Since discovering this site last week I've been reading the threads on SF and have been very impressed by the literacy, fashion and otherwise, of many of the members. I also feel quite overwhelmed by the exposure to the myriad of intricacies of fabric, construction, fit and design. (Not to mention acronyms.)

A single grey 'business suit,' which I was considering as a starting point, would now seem to be a paralyzingly complex set of choices. I could really use some advice on how to get started. Should I get something MTM in order to get the guidance I need? My friends and family will be of little use, and I find many of the sales people at the better mens' shops in town make my skin crawl.

 

[Chargersfan]

Don't really need a suit...a solid navy or grey sport coat/blazer (2 button or 3/2 roll). Neutral cotton or wool pants, a knit tie for the booth, and maybe a silk tie for 'meetings'. It never hurts to throw a tasteful pocket square in there too. I think most on here will tell you to avoid Moore's etc, and if you're going to spend your money on anything....

1. SHOES
2. A leather briefcase (nothing makes you look more low rent than carrying a backpack to a meeting).
3. Oh yeah....SHOES

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by Chargersfan

Don't really need a suit...a solid navy or grey sport coat/blazer (2 button or 3/2 roll). Neutral cotton or wool pants, a knit tie for the booth, and maybe a silk tie for 'meetings'. It never hurts to throw a tasteful pocket square in there too. I think most on here will tell you to avoid Moore's etc, and if you're going to spend your money on anything....

1. SHOES
2. A leather briefcase (nothing makes you look more low rent than carrying a backpack to a meeting).
3. Oh yeah....SHOES

Agreed. Get a navy blazer or sportscoat, and two pair of trouers to go with it. 2-3 blue/white shirts, and 1-2 discreet ties. White pocket square and a really nice pair of dressy loafers with a belt to match. Done.

 

[Frihed89]

I don't have much to offer since I'm not sure what the accepted atire is in your profession, but I would offer one bit of advice: no loafers, and no pointed or square toed shoes, either. I don't know your budget, but a simple pair of traditional brown "lace-ups" without any frills will go with about anything. I might favor a greyish tweed sport coat, but that may not be your style. Of course, you can never go wrong in any occasion with a 2 button navy blue suit with a single vent.

Good luck.

 

[F. Corbera]

Based on your self-description, do not press a navy blazer into the role you have in mind.

Get a mid-gray solid, pick and pick, or fine herringbone worsted suit.

Deformalize this like so: Get two pairs of dark brown oxfords, one in calf, the other in reverse calf (suede.) Get blue shirts or white with blue stripes or checks. Wear it with informal ties, like a solid or spotted knit tie in black or dark blue. If you can manage a pocket square, get something simple and stuff it into your pocket rather than folding it.

Make sure that the suit fits really well.

Nothing more complicated than that for your needs. If you can supplement with a navy solid or dark brown or blue Donegal jacket, you have more than what you would need given your post.

Informality in tailored dress is a lot about attitude. No one can teach you that.

 

[Sazerac]

Wow, you're exactly my size, right down to the shoes.

First of all, best wishes on the new business. It takes a brave man to be an entrepreneur.

One important question is, how do your clients dress?

Other things to consider are what kind of image you want to convey and whether you want to be seen as artsy/creative or straight-up business man.

Finally, how much do you want to spend on these "wardrobe seeds?"

EDIT: the post above this is spot-on. He's an excellent authority and offers sensible advice.

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by Costanza

I'm starting a new consulting business in Toronto that is aimed mostly at corporate interior designers.

Just two thoughts.

How artsy are these people? If they are you'll need to walk the fine line of not looking like a suit and yet still looking business like.

Toronto? Avoid the navy blazer or you'll end up looking like a failed used car salesman.

 

[The Thin Man]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

Get a mid-gray solid, pick and pick, or fine herringbone worsted suit. ... Informality in tailored dress is a lot about attitude. No one can teach you that.
+1 I would add that you can draw on numerous threads in Style Forum for advice on brands within your budget. Have an alterations tailor measure you, then try on ready-to-wear suits. Made to Measure is only recommended if you're a tough fit. If you need it, make sure the MTM salesman/tailor knows what he's doing.

 

[Costanza]

Thanks to all.

The business is actually a 'rebranding' of an existing and more typical architectural practice, so this is not that risky a move. Still, you can mess it up.

The corporate interior designers are generally trying to dress attractively but conservatively. Designers don't make a lot of money, and they are 90% women. The decision makers will be older, and sometimes male, but the women I work with tend to be young. They need my professional credentials to execute certain technical and life-safety aspects of some of the projects they have, so they are not coming to me for my creativivty. (Hence the rebranding.)

A secondary market will be commercial property managers. They are 50-50 men and women, and tend to dress in very conventional business attire generally.

I haven't set a dollar amount on what I'm willing to spend. A couple of incarnations ago I once had a nice wardrobe, and know that when something is right you find the money. When the clothes are right you feel and project confidence and that is worth something.

I actually have a couple of trousers, a recent tweed sport coat and an ancient but well-fitting blue 'blazer' in the closet, but I feel they are a bit causal for this new role. The image I'd like to convey is of a trusted, experienced professional who will give you one less thing to worry about. The associations people inevitably have with my being an architect are unavoidable and should probably not be entirely ignored. If I looked like a financier it would be a mistake.

Another issue we have locally is what to wear against the weather, which can get pretty rough. Salt is murder on shoes, and the ears will need to be covered at least part of the year. I'm thinking toe rubbers and a long wool overcoat. I hope I can continue to get away with my fur hat.

 

[The Thin Man]

Costanza, it's definitely edgy.

 

[Costanza]

Originally Posted by The Thin Man

Costanza, it's definitely edgy.

I might have to change my pic now.

 

[Costanza]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

Get a mid-gray solid, pick and pick, or fine herringbone worsted suit.

That's was my general idea, with some brown cap toes, but am a more unsure about the significance of the details for my stature and purpose: Cut, shoulders, lapels, pockets, vents, etc.

 

[F. Corbera]

Originally Posted by Costanza

That's was my general idea, with some brown cap toes, but am a more unsure about the significance of the details for my stature and purpose: Cut, shoulders, lapels, pockets, vents, etc.

You're torturing yourself unnecessarily.

Your uncertainty makes you a poor candidate for a bespoke or MTM suit, so strike that. You're getting a RTW suit, so just start with a brand that you can afford that you think looks good.

I'm not sure what's in Toronto...Harry Rosen?..go in and try on a few suits. Look for a single-breasted, notch lapel, two-button suit with plain flapped hip outpockets. Look for lapels that seem wider than narrower. Don't think anymore about the suit details other than that, and spend what effort you have left trying to educate yourself on how you want your suit to fit so that you don't let a style-less alterations tailor make you look too Canadian.

A simple mid-gray suit is easy to dress up or down with the relevant accessories.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

You're torturing yourself unnecessarily. Your uncertainty makes you a poor candidate for a bespoke or MTM suit, so strike that. You're getting a RTW suit, so just start with a brand that you can afford that you think looks good. I'm not sure what's in Toronto...Harry Rosen?..go in and try on a few suits. Look for a single-breasted, notch lapel, two-button suit with plain flapped hip outpockets. Look for lapels that seem wider than narrower. Don't think anymore about the suit details other than that, and spend what effort you have left trying to educate yourself on how you want your suit to fit so that you don't let a style-less alterations tailor make you look too Canadian. A simple mid-gray suit is easy to dress up or down with the relevant accessories.
Stop being so normal It's unsettling.

 

[F. Corbera]

Originally Posted by George

Stop being so normal

It's unsettling.

Don't worry. There always is an undercurrent of menace.