Starting from scratch (again)

[Costanza]

Originally Posted by Redwoood

Located not far from First Canadian is Stagioni, whose owner I find refreshingly to the point.
Wrt Boss, a lot of people here on SF would probably argue that Boss for 800+ is not a good deal unless it's the Selection line. I'd say worry about this kind of stuff later. First try to find the best-looking suit, then worry about the price. You can check WAYWRN and some of the 'critique my suit' threads for tips on what makes a good fit..
Never been to Kory's, sorry. Don't forget that we're at the end of the season, so selection may be slim in many stores until the new collection comes in over the next few weeks.
SC means sport coat, but I meant more generally an odd jacket, ie, a jacket of different colour/pattern/material than your trousers.

For ALL of the above thanks. They were clearing out at Kory's, and I know Stagioni. I'll make a trip to the core and hit them and Harry's.

I know that suit at HB is no 'deal.' If it were I would have tried it on over the MEC stuff I was wearing at the time. I'm not focused on price at the moment. I want to nail down the look I should pursue and then do a bit of shopping.

My wife cleared out the overburden of women's shoes from the closet a while back and I just noticed two pairs of my my British hand made shoes from WAY back- still in their trees. I forgot all about them. One a black brogue loafer with tassles from the early 90's with very little wear and a pair of delicate black Oxfords c. 1980 with a few more miles on them. I spent a few hours cleaning them up and I think the Oxfords are still servicable though I had my heart set on brown to go with the suit.

 

[Costanza]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

I'd second Corbera's advice. Also consider plain flannel for your mid-grey suit: it's the ultimate classic suit, and the mottled texture would afford a lot of versatility (dress it up with a woven silk tie and black shoes, dress it down with a knit/wool tie and brown suede shoes). You wouldn't be able to wear it during the summer though. Whatever you do, cuff the trousers generously (4.5 cm or thereabouts, i.e. a bit under 2 inches). They look better, hang better, and set you apart from the crowds of suited clones.

While I love flannel. suit No.1 probably needs a bit more seasonal range, unless I make dressing like this a habit or manage to aquire two at bargain prices with the other a lighter weight. Given what I see on the streets, flannel itself would do a lot to set one apart. Thanks for the cuffs tip. I really like the extra inertia of a cuff but I'd be nervous about going wider than 4 cm. with my current purpose in mind.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by Costanza

While I love flannel. suit No.1 probably needs a bit more seasonal range, unless I make dressing like this a habit or manage to aquire two at bargain prices with the other a lighter weight. Given what I see on the streets, flannel itself would do a lot to set one apart. Thanks for the cuffs tip. I really like the extra inertia of a cuff but I'd be nervous about going wider than 4 cm. with my current purpose in mind.

Fair enough. I'm about 175cm 'tall' and mine are 4.5 cm. I think 4 is the bare minimum for any adult heigth. I think Vox's and Phat Guido's are 5 cm, just for reference.

 

[Costanza]

I guess I could always try it and see how it feels. It could easily be reduced if I start blushing.

 

[NORE]

Be clear, the larger cuffs look best with slim pants IMO. Pants with a fuller leg opening would look silly.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by NORE

Be clear, the larger cuffs look best with slim pants IMO. Pants with a fuller leg opening would look silly.

I think they look good within the range of 'normal' width leg openings, and also with very slim leg openings.

 

[Redwoood]

BTW, don't feel compelled to cuff your trousers. It's just the 'we are different' taste on SF.

And finding good quality black shoes you didn't know you had is always a good thing in my book. Grey suits go with black and brown, and you can still get yourself brown shoes.

 

[Costanza]

I like the feel of a cuff- the way it swings slower and is less likely to get caught in the back of your shoe. There's no concern with 'shortening' me, but I'm reserving judgement on the scale of them for now. I'll start watching trousers next. Right now I'm fixated on lapels and breast pockets.

The Oxfords are a bit delicate compared to the thicker soled stuff I've been seeing in my fashion studies. They have fine creases in them from use and I applied the sum of my military training to get them most of the way to mirror finished, but can back them off with a bit of brushing. One more session of spit polishing and I'll be able to signal for help from passing planes.

The broague loafers are more contemporary in scale, and very nice shoes in very good shape, but I'm not seeing a lot of tassles under suits. I suppose I could post pictures...

 

[TimelesStyle]

Perhaps you should invest in one suit, since you'll need it every so often. If you want versatility, get something that you could wear as separates if you had to. I wouldn't normally advocate this, as you want similar wear on both the trousers and jacket, but if you're mostly standing around when dressed up, it should be fine.

With your build, and in your climate, perhaps consider one of Brooks' Milano suits? There was a nice charcoal flannel one on there and they're running a bit of a special. The trousers could easily pair with a navy blazer or most shades of brown tweed, plaid or even corduroy sport coats.

It sounds like you want to somehow "modernize" the stereotypical "architect" look, so go with a sort of soft, intellectual style but make sure you have great fits and an interesting combination of patterns (checked/gingham/bangle striped shirts, knit ties, various sweaters to throw into the mix, etc.).

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

Based on your self-description, do not press a navy blazer into the role you have in mind.

Get a mid-gray solid, pick and pick, or fine herringbone worsted suit.

Deformalize this like so: Get two pairs of dark brown oxfords, one in calf, the other in reverse calf (suede.) Get blue shirts or white with blue stripes or checks. Wear it with informal ties, like a solid or spotted knit tie in black or dark blue. If you can manage a pocket square, get something simple and stuff it into your pocket rather than folding it.

Make sure that the suit fits really well.

Nothing more complicated than that for your needs. If you can supplement with a navy solid or dark brown or blue Donegal jacket, you have more than what you would need given your post.

Informality in tailored dress is a lot about attitude. No one can teach you that.

Sounds just right.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by Costanza

It's an engraving of a scene from the Inferno by Gustave DorÃ

named "Virgil shows Dante the Souls of the Wrathful."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inferno...le_.28anger.29

At first I thought it was Blake's. Similar awkward over-wrought anatomy, but many decades later.

Back to school with you! Confusing Blake with Dore'. And you'll be dealing with designers.
Good Luck . (kidding)