I'm rewriting this post. This is my current plan and I will add questions in a new comment. A big issue is the back of a shirt and blazer. Everything I try on is either tight and restrictive on my back, or comfortable but baggy in all other areas. What's a realistic expectation level of comfort/mobility on my back while wearing a tailored jacket/shirt? Please comment if I'm missing anything/should do something different. Blazer/SC: Navy blue tropical wool with two buttons. I will probably asked for it to be unlined/skeleton lined/half lined. Since I have a slimmer/athletic build, should I ask for a wider lapel? Shirts: Two white and two light blue. I will probably ask for a linen, a tropical wool, cotton, and seersucker (white, white, blue, blue). No front pocket. Medium or classic spread collar (so it can be worn with/without tie). Pants: A dark gray wool, khaki wool, and maybe something in brown or khaki chino/linen? I will probably ask for a single pleat. I also read I should ask for a 1.25" cuff because I'm 5'7". J pocket. Shoes: Someone suggested derbies, and then I'm thinking loafers or monk straps. Both would be in a darker brown color. Belt: Is there a such thing as a low key removable belt buckle? I'd rather have two buckles and two straps than 4 belts. Suspenders/braces: I would like to give these a try and see if I prefer them over belts. I don't think I would mind wearing them without a jacket, but if I wanted a way to keep them covered in a hot summer without a jacket, what would be a good option? Or would wearing an untucked shirt over them be the best way?