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Starting from scratch; advice and help appreciated!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimmyS, Mar 20, 2014.

  1. CrimmyS

    CrimmyS Well-Known Member

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    I'm rewriting this post. This is my current plan and I will add questions in a new comment.

    A big issue is the back of a shirt and blazer. Everything I try on is either tight and restrictive on my back, or comfortable but baggy in all other areas. What's a realistic expectation level of comfort/mobility on my back while wearing a tailored jacket/shirt?

    Please comment if I'm missing anything/should do something different.

    Blazer/SC: Navy blue tropical wool with two buttons. I will probably asked for it to be unlined/skeleton lined/half lined. Since I have a slimmer/athletic build, should I ask for a wider lapel?


    Shirts: Two white and two light blue. I will probably ask for a linen, a tropical wool, cotton, and seersucker (white, white, blue, blue). No front pocket. Medium or classic spread collar (so it can be worn with/without tie).


    Pants: A dark gray wool, khaki wool, and maybe something in brown or khaki chino/linen? I will probably ask for a single pleat. I also read I should ask for a 1.25" cuff because I'm 5'7". J pocket.


    Shoes: Someone suggested derbies, and then I'm thinking loafers or monk straps. Both would be in a darker brown color.


    Belt: Is there a such thing as a low key removable belt buckle? I'd rather have two buckles and two straps than 4 belts.


    Suspenders/braces: I would like to give these a try and see if I prefer them over belts. I don't think I would mind wearing them without a jacket, but if I wanted a way to keep them covered in a hot summer without a jacket, what would be a good option? Or would wearing an untucked shirt over them be the best way?
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014


  2. CrimmyS

    CrimmyS Well-Known Member

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    Hello. I'm giving this a bump because I don't see it on the main page; I'm not sure if it's in purgatory right now or if it was just pushed back to another page.

    Again, thanks for any help in advance!
     


  3. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Welcome. I don't think many people are going to be willing to respond to your essay with their own essay. Use google and type in "styleforum __________" for each of your questions. That's what I always do with mine before I ask them on the forum. There is a wealth of information on all the questions you asked. I don't think you should resort to posting all these questions after having been unsuccessful in searching for your answers with only 1-2 attempts. I searched for them myself to see if there were pre-existing threads with these questions and there are.
     


  4. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    How is that a long story short? ;)
     


  5. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    They didn't last because you bought cheap stuff and didn't take care of it. You can care about your appearance (and yourself) without spending much. In fact, caring doesn't cost any money at all. Caring is about effort. Effort to find the right clothes. Effort to make sure they fit perfectly. Effort to launder them correctly and store them properly.
     


  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Your belt buckle is not a conversation piece. It should be discreet. And if your belt is scrunching up your pants, then your pants are the wrong size. In case no one mentions it, fit is the single most important aspect of your clothing. Your clothing should fit as perfectly as possible.
     


  7. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Your first blazer should be blue. Dark blue. Get the basics right, and you'll look great.

    Your shirts should only be long sleeve. If it's sweltering, roll up the sleeves.
     


  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    I applaud you for helping him, but I think you should let him find the answers first. Or at least not depend so much on a first post. "Never do for a man what he can do for himself".
     


  9. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    I live in China, as well. I highly, highly, highly recommend you use Taobao for purchases for anything from shirts to shoes. You can find discounted J Crew and custom-made dress shoes on there for cheap.
     


  10. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    As you a laowai? Wear what you like. Unless the job requires formal or other dress code. You're an ESL teacher, so that's basically what the school requires, Some schools require full monty suit, shirt and tie, others don't care. My school is basically no shorts or flip-flops in the classrooms.

    Shoes can be a problem if you take larger than 45. If you have large feet, could mean expensive imports, which are made in China anyway. Also if you're on the tall side, lengths are often a problem as well, and shirts can feel tight yes.

    One thing, where are you because the climate probably makes most difference as to what you'll be wearing. If you're in Guangdong in the summer and the A/C has clapped out, short sleeves and cotton are a must.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014


  11. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    Yeh knock-off isn't it? 50RMB J Crew shirts. I know TaoBao, friend of mine ordered some "discounted" Levi 501s....what arrived would belong in this thread...http://www.styleforum.net/t/320419/...-objects-the-fake-phoney-and-just-plain-funny
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014


  12. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    +1. There really is a huge amount of information on these questions if you methodically search in this manner; then post specific questions that you haven't found addressed. You'll be far more likely to find responses after you've done your "homework." Just a tip. MUCH can be learned through this forum through lurking.
     


  13. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    Shirts are all I've been wearing now that it's warming up down south. No way I can do dress shirts any more. I'd like to wear shorts but I don't want to embarrass myself.

    I've been lucky so far with the two J Crew linen trousers I ordered. The sellers do take negative reviews seriously. I've ordered some Chinese branded shirts that were inconsistent in sizing; left a negative review; seller immediately contacted me to provide me with a refund. I only order from sellers who have a good reputation.
     


  14. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    I can talk as student of high tailoring and orthodox of classic business style.

    Shirts only in white, blue, light blue and if you dare light pink and all the combinations of them. No dark, green, yellow, orange,red etc garments, only able on ties and not very flashy.

    The collars that look better without tie are button down and spread wide ones .


    Trousers always dark as navy or grey and maybe a brown chino for more casual useand maybe a dark jeans not baggy or slim and not very faded out.

    Belt a normal dressy not cowboy like.

    Suspenders, bow ties, vests and fashionista garments should ve avoided unless you want to look distant and pretentious and untrusty.

    Avoid excessive matching and keep things as basic as possible. That is what i will recommend you. As you see is easier than it seems. Sadly most of the forum guys dress like the rainbow and pretend to be good looking while they are not and hate classic dressers.

    With this basic rules and colour code you will start growing you and your wardrobe and won't waste your money on garments that after some months you ask yourself,why did i buy this dated stuff and threw my money out?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014


  15. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    I don't know if I'd say most, but there is certainly some truth to this...
     


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