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Starting a proper shoe collection with Allen Edmonds

SchwererGustav

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With the Allen Edmonds sale going, I feel that it is time I get some new, and proper, shoes for the office and for dressing up, and aim to start with a foundational black and dark brown.

I know that cap toe is considered an essential, and could go with the Park Avenue in both colors, yet I dislike the idea of having two of the same thing - albeit in different colorways.

My thinking is to get the Park Avenue in coffee, and Carlyle in black. Not only are they different, but the plain-toe style of the latter could also cover me for extra-dressy occasions (and save me from getting a patent leather pair).

Is this a good way to go about it? I am looking for quality leather (yet think cordovan too extravagant) and a goodyear welt. Other suggestions are welcome as well.

Lastly, if I were to go for a third pair, would a loafer or brogue be "more essential" - and in which color? Oxblood, light brown, other?
 
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madhat

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A black PA is quite dressy. I personally had a brown Carlyle. Either way could work though. For a third, it depends on what you're daily wear is. A burgundy/oxblood would be a very versatile dress shoe, while a lighter walnut would be a bit less so and more a statement shoe. A laced shoe would be again a bit more versatile than a loafer, unless you really prefer a loafer. It all really comes down to what you intend to wear daily though
 

tcbinnc

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It's really all personal choice and of course what styles will best complement your wardrobe and settings in which you will wear them. And even with that said you could probably attain sx pairs and still not cover all the bases (especially when you bring casual wear into the mix). Or at least that is what I am finding out.

I agree that mixing up the styles is a good idea as it is more fun and interesting, and for me, I think certain shoes look best in certain colors, or vice versa.
So, I chose the Fifth Avenue in dark chili, will add the McAllister in walnut, and possibly too, the Park Avenue in coffee, which I agree with you shows really well. And as I already have a cap-toe shoe in black non-AE but resembles a Park Ave.), that is one less decision I have to make. Thankfully.
Barring casual, what's left? Oh yes, oxblood. Perhaps a tassel loafer like the Grayson? Pretty traditional, and predictable but can go dress or casual, and then you'll have your "core" lineup. Black, Coffee, Oxblood, and optionally, Walnut. Good luck and please let us know what you decide!

Ps. Beyond the core I mentioned, and not counting the two casual styles I have (Boulder and Surrey) I will also be adding a suede and a double monk of some kind. At least. See how they start to add up?! lol.

Fifth Avenues/dark chili..
20190406_235837_HDR.jpg
 

SchwererGustav

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Thanks for the input. I might just go with two pairs at this time, and take my current shoes to the cobbler for a touch up.

How do AE's coffee and dark chili colors compare? I am thinking that whichever is darker brown would be the better choice.

As for the black, I am considering going with Jack Erwin's Baxter wholecut instead. The Baxter is negligibly cheaper at the moment; yet it is seamless, which better meets my purpose of making it the "most formal" shoe I would want to own.

Is the leather passable? I want to avoid corrected grain. Also, I do understand that the Baxter is Blake-stitched. As I would probably wear them on rare occasions, they shouldn't wear out quickly, and the Blake construction gives a slimmer look. For those two reasons, I might compromise.
 

johng70

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In my experience, you really should go to an AE store and try on shoes from different lasts. Some lasts were not comfortable on my feet. The 5 last is very comfortable but only if I get 9.5E. I measure a very steady 9.5D, but some AE lasts I wear 9.5D and the "5" I wear 9.5E and some lasts just aren't comfortable at all. Knowing that, I've avoided shoes built on those lasts.

I agree with dark brown shoe. Black works with black, navy, grey so it's flexible even when frowned upon by so many here for non formal. If you don't wear black I might suggest looking at oxblood instead of black. A little difference between you and everyone else at the office who is just wearing black and brown.
 

SchwererGustav

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So, I took two of my shoes down to the cobbler. I was expecting just a polishing, yet he pointed out that my pair of thrifted, chocolate Dexter longwings were in dire need of resoling. I hesitated a little bit, yet did allow him to make the repair. My other pair was also thrifted, but an oxblood wingtip possibly from Florsheim. Though vintage-y, they have been serviceable to me for many years, and I figure it might be worth keeping them around.

Due to the Dexter repair, I'm going to put the pair of new, black shoes on the back-burner until needed (probably upon a wedding invite). I'll probably go with Meermin or Jack Erwin.

I would still like a brown cap-toe, yet I keep being reminded of AE's "stubby" design. I'm thinking now that I might go with the Loake Aldwych instead.
 

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