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start of dropping out, downsizing, divesting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kitonbrioni, Jan 3, 2005.

  1. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Distinguished Member

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    Wolfe of the Doneger Group "foresees the beginning of "an aesthetic movement" that will lead people actually to brag that they own only one ... expensive coat. Mr. Wolfe chuckled. "I like this idea," he said, "that it's so elitist."" http://www.nytimes.com/2005....sition=
     


  2. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Oh, that's fine. One coat ... one suit ... one pair of shoes. OK, maybe two pair. Shirts are a different matter entirely. Any correctly informed elitist will without hesitation inform you that a properly-cared-for shirt needs 59 days of breathing on a hanger between wearings. This should be preferably in a room whose air has been appropriately sun-drenched (but no sun directly upon the shirts, of course) to allow proper re-oxygenation of the cotton. Hence, as stated in my previous posts, minimum 60 shirts. J - Maybe this should be in the HOF under: Shirtmaker Care? [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  3. ken

    ken Banned by Request

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    Totally agree. Once, I only let a shirt breathe for 56 days and it completely lost some shape. It turned out all right, though, because Wal-Mart refunded my money for it.
     


  4. marc37

    marc37 Senior Member

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    Totally fasinating Mr Kabbaz. 60 days you say, l never knew that. Hoo Roo: shooman. [​IMG]
     


  5. PHV

    PHV Senior Member

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    Mr. Kabbaz, is this true? Ideally, though in realistic circumstances, how long could one expect for a well made shirt to last? If I were to buy a host of classically styled shirts, can I expect to get a long life out of them? Do you have clients ordering 60 shirts at a time?
     


  6. Alias

    Alias Distinguished Member

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    I think he was joking, PHV. About the reoxygenation thing, not the 60 shirts at a time.

    And I like the idea of owning a few very good articles of clothing instead of a closet stuffed with mediocre items. While they may not live up to the hype about lasting longer, they will make you look a lot better during their existence.
     


  7. PHV

    PHV Senior Member

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    I got the gist of the tongue in cheek in his post, but I actually want to know how to care for well made shirts, and ideally how long they can last.

    And yes, I do agree that it's better to buy less but to buy quality.
     


  8. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Distinguished Member

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    With shirts and suits, I'll get rid of them not because it is worn out, but its because I am tired of wearing it. Shirt needs to be replaced every season I think.
     


  9. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Oh, my. [​IMG]
     


  10. globetrotter

    globetrotter Stylish Dinosaur

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    this actually is a philosophy that I have enbraced years ago, and have raised on this forum (I really hope that it doens't become mainstream - I am sick of things I like becoming fashinable for a year or two and then afterwords leaving me looking like I am a hanger on).

    I would love to have a closet of only 5 "designers" - one each for socks, undrewear, shirts, suits and coats, and shoes. with some stuff like ties, hats and scarfs aside.

    I would love to have all of my shirts of identical cut (actually, now I have a "work' shirt and a "dress" shirt, with the difference being that the "dress" shirts have contrasting collars and cuffs).

    I would love to have all of my suits of the same cut, in similar color scheme, and to only have a small number (actually, here I also am down to 2 cuts).

    I would love to be down to 5 perfect ties (here I have a long way to go).

    and, my intention is to have stuff that will last my whole life, more or less, adn will only be replaced when it falls appart.

    this is a process that is still developing, but I have no doubt that it will take hold in the next few years, as I weed out some of my existing stuff.
     


  11. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Distinguished Member

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    Milano,
    As you get older and you're finally buying the quality you really want (e.g. Brioni for you, I think), you'll have less reason to get bored and tired of what you own. It will happen.
     


  12. Geronimo

    Geronimo Member

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    My shirtmaker has a famous client and had told me that this client orders 75 new shirts per season (twice a year). I somewhat did not really believe it, thinking that it was somewhat outrageous, but the last time I was there to pick up my order, I noticed that client order was also ready, I did not count them but it was definetely in the 75 range.
    Knowing the fabric used and what my guy charges, I'll say that on average the guy paid $500 a shirt.

    G.
     


  13. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    The client who orders 60 shirts is not as rare as you might think. If you head a multi-national business, you may have three or four homes in which you regularly reside. If your travels take you for 1-2 weeks per home, 15 shirts per home would be about right. We often take orders for a certain number of shirts and are asked to make 3 or 4 of each. These are then packaged one per fabric into separate shipping cartons. Each carton is then sent to a different address. Milano Style
    You sound like my kind of guy. C'mon over. To All Yes, I was kidding about the 60 shirts. Not so, however, about the re-oxygenation. Shirts should be given 'hang time' inbetween each wearing. The cotton fibers do need time to rejuvenate. How long? If you have a sun-filled room where the air is nicely purified, a couple of weeks should do it. Dank, dark, back-alley city window - or no window at all? Give 'em a month or more (and consider moving). Don't, even if you have that beautiful sun-filled room, hang the shirts in the Sun. They will fade - absolutely and unevenly and unslowly. PPV
    I expect 50-75 wearings from collars & cuffs, which will then need refurbishing, and 200+ wearings from the shirt body. I often receive shirts which are 15 years old for new collar & cuffs, not so often of 20 years, a few older than 25, and one which had achieved an age of 28. Personally, I have quite a few shirts more than 20 years old and at least a half-dozen suits of similar age. Oldest shirt is 30; oldest suit is 31. Ken
    How could you? You oughta be ashamed. 3 days of no posting for you.
     


  14. gorgekko

    gorgekko Distinguished Member

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    Sweet God. If I was of old New England prep stock, I'd be shocked at that sort of waste [​IMG] I wear shirts until they aren't suitable for wear any longer. I have one shirt from 1989 that I wear that is still in amazing shape. I think it regenerates after each wearing. However, on to what the thread is about: I fall into the "More" school on this one. In theory having a simple wardrobe is great, I'm a big lover of simplicity and elegance, but I think I'd get tired of wearing the same pieces regularly.
     


  15. Roy

    Roy Distinguished Member

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    I am a firm believer in a huge and versatile wardrobe of excellent quality. I'm not there yet, but i am on my way [​IMG] Although I will probably never ever come close to Fabio Borrelli's wardrobe (he boasts over 400 of his own suits [​IMG] )
     


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