st crispins vs vass

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by carpediem, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. forex

    forex Senior member

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    What are you, a fucking child??? You are exhibiting such an animosity that I can only think that you have a deep insecure hatred for someone who you know deep down can run circles around you in their knowledge of, and not to mention taste in, shoes. The shit you post pictures of, which you're so chauvinistic about, look like they belong on a cartoon mouse, not on any person who has a thread of taste and elegance.

    That's a great post,I like.
     


  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Well, as fritzl is asking, I took possession of these two boots during 2009

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And those are my lasts (one for derbies, one for oxford). I think everyone who is serious about shoes, should have his own last at home.

    [​IMG]

    The three eyelet pair are sublime.
    Who made them?
     


  3. medwards

    medwards Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bengal+Medwards=The very best that the interwebz has to offer.[​IMG]

    I owe them both more than I could hope to repay.


    Thank you for your most gracious comment. I, too, am indebted to Bengal Stripe for his generousity in sharing his thoughts and expertise over the years.
     


  4. 82-Greg

    82-Greg Senior member

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    Does anyone know where St. Crispin can be obtained in the U.S.?
     


  5. haganah

    haganah Senior member

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    yep, i agree it was totally uncallded what he did. he'll pay the price. he really messed around with the wrong person. ...and i still don't know, if he owns these shoes, not that it matters.
    R U a Shoe terrorist?
     


  6. LynahFaithful

    LynahFaithful Senior member

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    Does anyone know where St. Crispin can be obtained in the U.S.?

    I don't believe that you can. Their website has the listing of their retailers - second box from the left, top row.

    http://saint-crispins.com/
     


  7. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Want to know not questioning the inferiority of the staple gun? What difference does it make with regards to nails?

    I agree Vass has more handwork, but Crispins are more stylish or should I say flashy and eye popping. I'm old school by the way...:)

    Vass three piece trees (though of late difficult to get) is by far best IMO.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013


  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The nails are pulled and discarded. The staples can be, and often are, left in the shoe. Not really good for the shoe...although many wouldn't care.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013


  9. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    So what is the use of the staples?
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Both the nails and the staples are used to hold the leather in place as it is being lasted. The nails are driven with a hammer or often with the lasting pincers. The staples are driven with a pneumatic staple gun. The stapler is roughly ten times faster and easier than using nails and for some, that's what it's all about (although nails have a beneficial aspect that is not duplicated by the staples).

    The staples are short enough and thin enough they can be left in place without being seen. Staples are most often associated with lasting machines and factory work. And when left in the leather they rust and rust is a "slow fire"--it damages leather. On the other hand many GY welted shoes do not use a leather insole so it is a moot point.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013


  11. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    I have only one pair of Vass shoes and two pairs of St Crispins shoes.

    I really like my Vass shoes and feel they are really great deal for what I paid for them. I chose the F Last for my pair and this worked out pretty good for me, however I can see where a number of their other Lasts may be more of a challenge for me. They appear to be really well built and I think they are pretty good looking shoes. Vass has some really interesting designs you just don't see everywhere. There a few I wouldn't mind owning.

    St. Crispins on the other hand have a number of shoes and or boots I wouldn't mind owning. Although Vass did a real good job with the finishing on my pair shoes, St Crispins did an excellent job with both of my pair of shoes. Their Lasts aren't as extreme as Vass are (angular looking). I could be wrong but it appears that you have more leather options when working with St Crispins than Vass and the wait time is somewhat shorter as well.


    In fact if I had to pick only one shoe manufacturer to buy all my shoes and boots from, I would have no problem wearing nothing but St. Crispins.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013


  12. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Thanks DW, what I did not follow in the Crispin video was why do both, nails as well as staples, granted the nails were removed.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013


  13. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    I'm a huge fan of Vass. And I wouldn't argue with any of that.
     


  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I didn't see a link to a video...might not have watched it anyway. I was just commenting on the use of staples. I use long shoemakers brads when lasting. If you know what you're doing, you can tighten the draft and get rid of pipes with nails better than any other method. Again, the use of staples is just another expediency. And in RTW shoes probably more common than not.
     


  15. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Grossly overpriced I'd say. Interestingly using none of the Austro Hungarian tradition even though based in Vienna and relying on the export market. Pretty astute marketing. Credit to them that they have adopted well and gone International.
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2013


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