st crispins vs vass

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by carpediem, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made. [​IMG]

    There are seams, but they're placed quite cleverly.
     


  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] how do they do that...its magic!

    Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made. [​IMG]

    Easy!.........(for those who can).

    The damp (or even wet) leather gets pulled over the last and fixed with nails underneath. before anything is cut out of the hide. While the leather dries, it "˜memorizes' the shape. That process is called "˜blocking'(English), or "˜crimping' (American').

    Here is the trial (from a waste section) to see how that particular leather reacted:

    [​IMG]

    And here are the finished uppers:

    [​IMG]

    Holy fucking shit!!!!
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  3. Philip1978

    Philip1978 Senior member

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    Easy!.........(for those who can).

    The damp (or even wet) leather gets pulled over the last and fixed with nails underneath. before anything is cut out of the hide. While the leather dries, it "˜memorizes' the shape. That process is called "˜blocking'(English), or "˜crimping' (American').

    Here is the trial (from a waste section) to see how that particular leather reacted:


    Why don't more people do it this way?
     


  4. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    Both look great.

    bengal-stripe, who made those wholecuts?
     


  5. mussel

    mussel Senior member

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    Is there anything more sexy in the world than a seemless wholecut?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] how do they do that...its magic!

    Holy fucking shit!!!!
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]


    There are seams, but they're placed quite cleverly.

    The seams are in the inner side which conveniently not being shown.
     


  6. CunningSmeagol

    CunningSmeagol Senior member

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    Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made. [​IMG]

    You can make exactly four from every cow.
     


  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    You can make exactly four from every cow.

    Working on pair #2...

    [​IMG]
     


  8. CunningSmeagol

    CunningSmeagol Senior member

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    OMG someone got it!
     


  9. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Working on pair #2...

    [​IMG]


    These are eligible for purchase under the USDA's allowable food stamp purchases.
     


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    These are eligible for purchase under the USDA's allowable food stamp purchases.

    Someone's getting crimped !
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I own both and would give an edge to St Crispin on leather quality, finish and overall construction. I'd give Vass the nod on lasts (haven't found a SC last as attractive as U), customer service and value for money.

    They're about the same. I really like SC's classic last, but I also like all the Vass lasts, each in their own way.

    SC is a bit lighter on the foot.

    As for service, I've only bought Vass at retail (at Louis) or through the usual intermediaries. For Saint Crispin's, I've dealt with Phillip Car directly (well, by email), and found him attentive, expert and a person who loves what he sells.

    - B
     


  12. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    Why don't more people do it this way?

    Because a great many shoemakers are of the opinion that the enormous stress which lasts on the leather makes the resulting shoe less sturdy. Plus it's quite tricky to repair.
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Because a great many shoemakers are of the opinion that the enormous stress which lasts on the leather makes the resulting shoe less sturdy. Plus it's quite tricky to repair.

    I'll reserve my praise for the first seamless wholecut that is inclusive of a sole, sort of like a little bag that's tied around each foot.

    I freely give this million dollar idea to Ron Rider.


    - B
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    As for service, I've only bought Vass at retail (at Louis) or through the usual intermediaries. For Saint Crispin's, I've dealt with Phillip Car directly (well, by email), and found him attentive, expert and a person who loves what he sells.
    I have the inverse experience. Bought the SC via retailer and most of my Vass directly from the store. Although there has been one instance of a small QC issue, customer service was excellent and everything was resolved to my satisfaction.
     


  15. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The sole treatment and instep of the St. Crispins I've seen have been really great - nothing like the Vass I've handled.
     


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