St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Found it. Kinda old though.

https://theshoesnobblog.com/saint-crispins-factory-visit/

"As I mentioned, the shoes about 95% handmade. That 5% is attaching the sole, which is done by a very old hand-driven machine that stitches on the sole. Phillip tells me that the results are nearly identical (providing that one is skilled with this very old-world machine), but the time to attach the sole is drastically reduced using the machine, so in his mind it only makes mathematical sense to do so. And presuming that he is accurate, I can’t say that I can disagree with that notion. And from what I have seen of their sole stitching, it looks quite tidy to me and I have never heard of sole separation before, so why not use it instead of doing it by hand?! However, funny enough, when they do a re-sole, it is done by hand and not using the machine."
View attachment 1803196

I suppose that makes sense why it costs as much as it does for a resole.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

If that turns out to be true my theory would be that with the machine on a new welt and sole it's faster and saves time and costs. On a resole if they don't have to remove the welt by hand it's easier to follow the previous holes?

I have no idea, just spectulation.

They definitely can go through the old holes that were made by the machine (holes on the upper), but they'd probably just replace the welt if they were doing it by hand.

I'm thinking the machine can't go over the same holes, or be as accurately calibrated to go over the same holes.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

To be honest at the price point I find it a disappointment that the soles aren't hand stitched.

I agree. I wonder how much more they would charge for a handsewn sole. TBF to them, not many makers, even at this price point, are giving you a handsewn sole.

 

[jischwar]

Found it. Kinda old though.

https://theshoesnobblog.com/saint-crispins-factory-visit/

"As I mentioned, the shoes about 95% handmade. That 5% is attaching the sole, which is done by a very old hand-driven machine that stitches on the sole. Phillip tells me that the results are nearly identical (providing that one is skilled with this very old-world machine), but the time to attach the sole is drastically reduced using the machine, so in his mind it only makes mathematical sense to do so. And presuming that he is accurate, I can’t say that I can disagree with that notion. And from what I have seen of their sole stitching, it looks quite tidy to me and I have never heard of sole separation before, so why not use it instead of doing it by hand?! However, funny enough, when they do a re-sole, it is done by hand and not using the machine."
View attachment 1803196

Thanks for linking to this. Learn something new everyday

 

[nishant]

MOD633 in Dk Brown Suede via @kevinsvindland

 

[hysteria]

MOD633 in Dk Brown Suede via @kevinsvindland

View attachment 1806204 View attachment 1806205 View attachment 1806206 View attachment 1806207 View attachment 1806208

My friend, you're going to have to start telling us sthe details on all your watch postings
Your watch taste is A+.
Which Breguet is this

OUt of curiosity, who takes these shoe photos for you?

 

[nishant]

My friend, you're going to have to start telling us sthe details on all your watch postings
Your watch taste is A+.
Which Breguet is this

OUt of curiosity, who takes these shoe photos for you?

Thank you. It is a Breguet 5247 with Lemania movement inside & Grand feu enamel dial. Love everything about this piece.

I use a hand held trigger to take the pictures.

 

[Jasonftw]

Has anyone ordered any shoes with Kudu 076 suede?? The ones i got are obviously very nice, but i'm not getting any of the tobacco tones that i see online and i've tried everything to recreate the lighting. They said its a photography issue and that the leather has not changed, but i think mine are darker than all i've seen. Does anyone else have any recent pics of KUD076???

 

[Mallaig]

Has anyone ordered any shoes with Kudu 076 suede?? The ones i got are obviously very nice, but i'm not getting any of the tobacco tones that i see online and i've tried everything to recreate the lighting. They said its a photography issue and that the leather has not changed, but i think mine are darker than all i've seen. Does anyone else have any recent pics of KUD076???

I have a pair of boots in KUD076 ! They are gorgeous. The color is highly dependent on the surroundings. They look quite dark in the first picture and much lighter in the second when compared to a brown Kudu leather (Enzo B) and dark brown Cordovan (Harlech).

 

[Jasonftw]

That’s beautiful and more of what I was expecting. I don’t think mine look like that.

 

[ryanluo23]

Has anyone ordered any shoes with Kudu 076 suede?? The ones i got are obviously very nice, but i'm not getting any of the tobacco tones that i see online and i've tried everything to recreate the lighting. They said its a photography issue and that the leather has not changed, but i think mine are darker than all i've seen. Does anyone else have any recent pics of KUD076???

The photo you shared '524.jpeg' has a filter on it and the colour can be misleading. If that is the colour you are after the other popular leather and colourway is the JAN Marraca. KUD076 can look very different in brightly light vs lo-light area as depicted by @Mallaig


I will attached mine as comparision which has lo exposure at the rear and abit more light at the front

 

[willyto]

I agree. I wonder how much more they would charge for a handsewn sole. TBF to them, not many makers, even at this price point, are giving you a handsewn sole.

I guess my thinking is that if Vass Budapest are doing it then they could also do it. The price difference alone would justify it.

I have no data but I would think that wages in Hungary and Budapest would be similar for shoemakers.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I guess my thinking is that if Vass Budapest are doing it then they could also do it. The price difference alone would justify it.

I have no data but I would think that wages in Hungary and Budapest would be similar for shoemakers.

I'd agree with the wages being similar. Like yourself, I base that assertion on anecdotal evidence.

When you consider they are performing that level of work on a resole at presumably no additional cost (AFAIK anyways), how much more trouble would it be to provide their customer that additional handwork detail for a brand new pair. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[Jasonftw]

The photo you shared '524.jpeg' has a filter on it and the colour can be misleading. If that is the colour you are after the other popular leather and colourway is the JAN Marraca. KUD076 can look very different in brightly light vs lo-light area as depicted by @Mallaig
View attachment 1809512 View attachment 1809510

I will attached mine as comparision which has lo exposure at the rear and abit more light at the front

Thanks! I wish i had know this 8 months ago. Oh well. They are still nice.

 

[ryanluo23]

621 in KUD076

Something I learned last year. PC defines

Stormwelt = Stormwelt + Norvegese
Norvegese = Norvegese on leather itself