St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[KPDarb]

I received my second trial shoe today. Fit is better but still not perfect. Here are some pictures. Now I am waiting for a reply. View attachment 1396245 View attachment 1396246 View attachment 1396247 View attachment 1396248 View attachment 1396249 View attachment 1396250
The gaping on the side of the ankles gets worse when I step and put weight through my heel.
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Do you happen to have flat feet? I’ve noticed this the past and one thing the owners had in common was flat feet.

Maybe @DWFII can comment as a shoemaker? Would love to hear your opinion on the fit.

 

[Mallaig]

I have not talked to them about options for the final shoes yet. We have just been focusing on the fit so far.

I am sure we will figure out the fit issues. I just wonder what causes that amount of gaping, and I hope the fit is finalized on the final pair. It would suck to drop a grand on a pair of shoes that do not fit right.

Did you discuss the fit issues with Phillip? I’d be curious to know what he had to say.

I’ll be talking to him tomorrow about my trial shoe fit. Will share an update afterwards.

 

[Patrick1053]

Do you happen to have flat feet? I’ve noticed this the past and one thing the owners had in common was flat feet.

Maybe @DWFII can comment as a shoemaker? Would love to hear your opinion on the fit.

Yes my feet are pretty flat low volume low instep skinny ankles. I guess all of this makes that area of the shoe particularly difficult for me to get right.

Did you discuss the fit issues with Phillip? I’d be curious to know what he had to say.

I’ll be talking to him tomorrow about my trial shoe fit. Will share an update afterwards.

I talked with him about the first trial, but I have not gotten a response about these. He was very helpful in recognizing that the first trial was pretty off and that is why he offered this second trial for absolutely free for me. I will also share an update about the response I get.

 

[DWFII]

Maybe @DWFII can comment as a shoemaker? Would love to hear your opinion on the fit.

I suspect no maker could offer any meaningful or useful comment about the fit without seeing and measuring the foot, without seeing the foot in the shoes--photos don't get it.

As someone else mentioned, there is (for my way of thinking, anyway) too much room in the forepart but also much much too much room in the instep and probably too much in the long heel and maybe even the heel to ball.

All that seems self-evident...more or why, I cannot say.

 

[Fliegerguy]

I received my second trial shoe today. Fit is better but still not perfect. Here are some pictures. Now I am waiting for a reply. View attachment 1396245 View attachment 1396246 View attachment 1396247 View attachment 1396248 View attachment 1396249 View attachment 1396250
The gaping on the side of the ankles gets worse when I step and put weight through my heel.
View attachment 1396252


View attachment 1396253

Do the heel and sole lie flat on the ground without weight?

I suspect they aren't. When the sole and heel are forced to lie flat with weight, the quarters are pushed up when the weight is at your heel.

 

[wurger]

I received my second trial shoe today. Fit is better but still not perfect. Here are some pictures. Now I am waiting for a reply. View attachment 1396245 View attachment 1396246 View attachment 1396247 View attachment 1396248 View attachment 1396249 View attachment 1396250
The gaping on the side of the ankles gets worse when I step and put weight through my heel.
View attachment 1396252


View attachment 1396253

hm, sorry to say, the 2nd trial shoes are still very far from a good fitting. Please keep in mind even in face to face bespoke makers make adjustments from finished shoes for a client’s 2nd or 3rd pair. This cyber fitting experiment would only work for minor adjustments like your feet is ok with with RTW sizing.

 

[dauster]

I don’t wish to insult my intelligence by wasting time on what you think.

Take care.

ooops posted in wrong thread too many windows open

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Yes my feet are pretty flat low volume low instep skinny ankles. I guess all of this makes that area of the shoe particularly difficult for me to get right.

I am curious which brand(s) fit you well?

The reason I ask is because I have had some makers (Materna instantly comes to mind) that want me to send them an old pair of shoes (initially they send you trial shoes in your common size but in case that doesn't work). They do that in order to gauge preferred fit. There are other reasons as well, but that is the most pertinent to this fitting.

Consequently, StC (barring they would do this) may be willing to produce a shoe after conducting a similar process.

 

[Patrick1053]

I am curious which brand(s) fit you well?

The reason I ask is because I have had some makers (Materna instantly comes to mind) that want me to send them an old pair of shoes (initially they send you trial shoes in your common size but in case that doesn't work). They do that in order to gauge preferred fit. There are other reasons as well, but that is the most pertinent to this fitting.

Consequently, StC (barring they would do this) may be willing to produce a shoe after conducting a similar process.

My best fitting shoes are from TLB Mallorca, the artista collection. They have a tight waist and heel. My problem is that I can not get a shoe that is low and tight enough in the back, and that does not destroy my small toe in the to box.

 

[Patrick1053]

I suspect no maker could offer any meaningful or useful comment about the fit without seeing and measuring the foot, without seeing the foot in the shoes--photos don't get it.

As someone else mentioned, there is (for my way of thinking, anyway) too much room in the forepart but also much much too much room in the instep and probably too much in the long heel and maybe even the heel to ball.

All that seems self-evident...more or why, I cannot say.

What part of the shoe are you referring to when you say to much room in the forepart?

 

[DWFII]

What part of the shoe are you referring to when you say to much room in the forepart?

Well, from behind the treadline (medial ball joint to lateral ball joint forward)--what another poster called the 'vamp'.

But really, what I see in the shoe (if the photos are representative) is that the whole shoe is loose on the foot--the excess in the joint/vamp; the gaping at the sides. And I've got even money that even with the shoe laced up tight the heel slips like crazy. The facings...IMPO...should not ever close up tight, esp. if there is slack or excess in the mid foot / instep or the heel.

It doesn't do anyone any good at all to have a loose fit...anywhere. It allows the foot to slide inside the shoe, which will inevitably break-down the structure of the shoe. It prevents the shoe from supporting the foot as it is designed to do...which inevitably leads to a break-down of the structure of the foot.. It leads to 'clumsy' feet and premature and excessive wear.

I'm sure someone will take exception but I was asked for my opinion...as a maker...and there you have it.

 

[Patrick1053]

Well, from behind the treadline (medial ball joint to lateral ball joint forward)--what another poster called the 'vamp'.

But really, what I see in the shoe (if the photos are representative) is that the whole shoe is loose on the foot--the excess in the joint/vamp; the gaping at the sides. And I've got even money that even with the shoe laced up tight the heel slips like crazy. The facings...IMPO...should not ever close up tight, esp. if there is slack or excess in the mid foot / instep or the heel.

It doesn't do anyone any good at all to have a loose fit...anywhere. It allows the foot to slide inside the shoe, which will inevitably break-down the structure of the shoe. It prevents the shoe from supporting the foot as it is designed to do...which inevitably leads to a break-down of the structure of the foot.. It leads to 'clumsy' feet and premature and excessive wear.

I'm sure someone will take exception but I was asked for my opinion...as a maker...and there you have it.

Thank you! you are almost entirely correct. It is weird though because there is a very slight heel slip on the left and none on the right. If I were blind and could not see the laces and the gaping, I would say the shoe fits pretty good. I hope I can get this worked out.

 

[Encore]

My best fitting shoes are from TLB Mallorca, the artista collection. They have a tight waist and heel. My problem is that I can not get a shoe that is low and tight enough in the back, and that does not destroy my small toe in the to box.

Have you tried Paolo Scafora? Low instep, some last does have relatively big toe box room (Door)

 

[DWFII]

Thank you! you are almost entirely correct. It is weird though because there is a very slight heel slip on the left and none on the right. If I were blind and could not see the laces and the gaping, I would say the shoe fits pretty good. I hope I can get this worked out.

Please take this as it is meant--kindly and to inform: If you "were blind and could not see the laces..." and still thought the shoe "fit pretty good" you might be better off wearing the boxes they came in.

A well fit shoe should lie close to the foot--in direct contact with the flesh of the foot, IOW...at every point (except over the toes). Anything less is not a fit. Period.

 

[Patrick1053]

Please take this as it is meant--kindly and to inform: If you "were blind and could not see the laces..." and still thought the shoe "fit pretty good" you might be better off wearing the boxes they came in.

A well fit shoe should lie close to the foot--in direct contact with the flesh of the foot, IOW...at every point (except over the toes). Anything less is not a fit. Period.

Yup I definitely intend to have the last shaved down. I appreciate all the info so that I can figure out what needs to be made smaller.