St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

@cliffordcaucus @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes sincere thanks to you two good gents. Very thoughtful responses. My read is that StC can achieve superior fit to RTW, but true bespoke is still a step above (without giving thought to cost). Factoring in cost, StC is a wonderful value proposition.

That would be exactly right. StC provides you a very big taste of Bespoke (especially if you have your last done), while providing a superior fit to any RTW shoe out there. It is probably the best value of any shoemaker out there (although $1600 is a rather steep price all things considered).

 

[dieworkwear]

I like StC a lot, but wouldn't say they provide a superior fit. What you're getting a is a lot more shaping through the shoe, which means a tighter fit and thus less room for error.

Think of it like a shirt. Are you more likely going to be comfortable in a baggy shirt or a very slim shirt? Physically, probably the baggy one. If you get a very slim shirt, you might like the look more, but there's less room for error in terms of cutting.

I agree you're getting many of the benefits of bespoke for less money, however. That includes the shape, styling, customization options, and some of the construction methods.

 

[DL120]

I like StC a lot, but wouldn't say they provide a superior fit. What you're getting a is a lot more shaping through the shoe, which means a tighter fit and thus less room for error.

Think of it like a shirt. Are you more likely going to be comfortable in a baggy shirt or a very slim shirt? Physically, probably the baggy one. If you get a very slim shirt, you might like the look more, but there's less room for error in terms of cutting.

I agree you're getting many of the benefits of bespoke for less money, however. That includes the shape, styling, customization options, and some of the construction methods.

I have to respectfully disagree that the amount of sculpting shape StC puts into their lasts makes for a higher probability of an uncomfortable fit. That shape, specifically from the vamp back is all intentional for more support and functional aspects of the shoe.

for those who prefer a looser fitting shoe, and are more accustom to American lasts, I find they initially think StC is too stiff, but that’s due to not being familiar with what a fully structured extended heel counter support and arch to ball support feel like. The heel is much tighter and recessed providing unparalleled support and and stability.

If anything, I’d wager the complaint about improper fit, is more due to not being used to a fitted fully structured shoe, than the sculpting of the lasts causing a low probability of proper fit.

either way, I’ve only ever experienced one person say they didn’t think StC fit was the best they ever had, and it was due to the above. They prefer a looser fitting, heel gap, where their foot sits forward in the shoe. Something that you can’t really accomplish in a proper StC.

 

[LThomsen]

Has any one used bedos leather works or Kirby Alison to resole a pair of stc?

 

[wurger]

I have to respectfully disagree that the amount of sculpting shape StC puts into their lasts makes for a higher probability of an uncomfortable fit. That shape, specifically from the vamp back is all intentional for more support and functional aspects of the shoe.

for those who prefer a looser fitting shoe, and are more accustom to American lasts, I find they initially think StC is too stiff, but that’s due to not being familiar with what a fully structured extended heel counter support and arch to ball support feel like. The heel is much tighter and recessed providing unparalleled support and and stability.

If anything, I’d wager the complaint about improper fit, is more due to not being used to a fitted fully structured shoe, than the sculpting of the lasts causing a low probability of proper fit.

either way, I’ve only ever experienced one person say they didn’t think StC fit was the best they ever had, and it was due to the above. They prefer a looser fitting, heel gap, where their foot sits forward in the shoe. Something that you can’t really accomplish in a proper StC.

you can make that 2 people, I have my own custom last, but my first pair was so painfully on the toe it had to be relasted. My 2nd and 3rd pairs ironned out the issues. They are a good fit now, I won't classify it as it best just because I spent thousands of dollars on them, I have perfectly fitting shoes that costs less than $500.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I have to respectfully disagree that the amount of sculpting shape StC puts into their lasts makes for a higher probability of an uncomfortable fit. That shape, specifically from the vamp back is all intentional for more support and functional aspects of the shoe.

for those who prefer a looser fitting shoe, and are more accustom to American lasts, I find they initially think StC is too stiff, but that’s due to not being familiar with what a fully structured extended heel counter support and arch to ball support feel like. The heel is much tighter and recessed providing unparalleled support and and stability.

If anything, I’d wager the complaint about improper fit, is more due to not being used to a fitted fully structured shoe, than the sculpting of the lasts causing a low probability of proper fit.

either way, I’ve only ever experienced one person say they didn’t think StC fit was the best they ever had, and it was due to the above. They prefer a looser fitting, heel gap, where their foot sits forward in the shoe. Something that you can’t really accomplish in a proper StC.

you can make that 2 people, I have my own custom last, but my first pair was so painfully on the toe it had to be relasted. My 2nd and 3rd pairs ironned out the issues. They are a good fit now, I won't classify it as it best just because I spent thousands of dollars on them, I have perfectly fitting shoes that costs less than $500.

Obviously I would agree with both of you. No surprise there as I made the initial statement regarding StC's superior fit haha.

I will concede shoe wearers will find the arch & heel support stiff coming from GYW'd or Blake construction brands. Which is normal since most (if not all) GYW shoe manufacturers do not extend counters far enough. Growing accustomed to that or not is will determine if StCs is appropriate for you or not.

 

[wristandfeet]

Many thanks again, gentlemen.

I can definitely see the perspectives of @DL120 @wurger @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes , since, for example, I find EG202/606 closer fitting and more "comfortable" to Alden Barrie.

However, I most definitely also agree with @dieworkwear main point, which is that a closer fitting and structured shoe will have much smaller margin of error - and that any misstep in measurement or execution would result in far more discomfort than errors in a roomy last.

 

[WilYa]

Chukka season

 

[shirtingfantasy]

Stuck-home polish. The orange scent smells good.

 

[SimonC]

Stuck-home polish. The orange scent smells good.

View attachment 1368723

I still have a little left from when they were retailing as Glenkaren. It’s great stuff - just hard to get, as I need(ed) to be travelling to the US long enough to have hold luggage.

 

[DL120]

I still have a little left from when they were retailing as Glenkaren. It’s great stuff - just hard to get, as I need(ed) to be travelling to the US long enough to have hold luggage.

I love Pure Polish Products! Andy is a great guy too. I believe he’s shipping worldwide and has stockists internationally as well.

 

[DL120]

Out of curiosity, anyone else taking advantage of the MTO turnaround time right now?
I may or may not have just put one in production with Phillip ?

 

[ERok32]

I’m thinking about it. Town between Mod 633 in mountain calf or mod 575 in mid/dark brown suede.

Edit: just purchased mod 633 in dark brown mountain calf

 

[letsgofire]

Chukka season
View attachment 1368630

I really like how these look. Could you share the details? Color/last etc.? Thank you!

 

[WilYa]

I really like how these look. Could you share the details? Color/last etc.? Thank you!

You are completely right. I believe this is one of most classic SC models.
Mine is pretty standard RTW from the early days, dark brown Janus calf on Classic last, standard F width.
It is really versatile and great for traveling. Simon has also covered this in lengths https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/12/saint-crispins-relasting-boots-and-us-activities.html