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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. dbhdnhdbh

    dbhdnhdbh Well-Known Member

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    I would have thought the same thing.

    But with an outfit like St. Crispin's not only willing to do it, but recommending this repair-changes my whole perspective. Do you think a half sole is acceptable only when done at the factory by a high end shoemaker, or is this generally a perfectly good way to resole?

    Did they explain why they suggested it?
     
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I've heard that a half sole is better method to replace a sole when the shoe has a pegged waist. Something about the pegs being pulled out through the uppers and insole and redone. I would think that is more of an integrity issue. Again, don't know the specifics, just something I heard.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    In my opinion, as a shoe/bootmaker...for the life of the shoe... a half sole is indeed a better solution when pegs are used to secure the waist. But that isn't always an option. The sliced joint on a half sole will generally be the weakest connection and may come loose before the half sole is worn through. Sometimes that can be a real issue, fraught with real danger, such as in the saddle.

    75 years ago...thereabouts...half soles would have been done with press cement and presses...even, esp., in shoe repair shops. This made for a very strong bond. But nowadays everyone relies on neoprene based cements and these can and do come loose. Oxidation, chemicals, UV take their toll.

    If the shoe is sewn from the breast of the heels to the breast of the heel, a "3/4" sole --the slice being placed under the breast of the heel--is the better/best solution. For many of the same reasons mentioned above...the unreliability of the splice, for example.

    Topy would have been fine but to do it right...to protect the mechanical and functional integrity of the shoe...the Topy needs to be either put on when the shoe is made or immediately upon purchase. As a replacement/cover for a worn outsole...as substitute for a half sole, IOW...it leaves a lot to be desired and introduces factors that are more problematic than beneficial.

    On edit...the one thing that is too often overlooked, even by "professional" shops or makers doing after market repairs, is that the splice between the new half sole and the existing waist remnant must be precise--the transition smooth with no lumps or changes in thickness. It is all too easy to inadvertently put a "met bar" (a orthopedic correction) on an otherwise normal shoe through inattention to this transition.

    --
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  4. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    St C's factory installed half topy when new. Not loving it. your thoughts?
     
  5. gambit50

    gambit50 Well-Known Member

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    Do not love it, either but I never care for the look of any Topy. Not sure if that is a dumb stance to take given it is the sole but I cannot get it out of my brain that it looks that way even when pressed on the concrete.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    One should not confuse utility with aesthetics. No one ever said...in all seriousness...that Topy looks good or makes the shoe look good. To the contrary...:satisfied:
     
    2 people like this.
  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    How is that topy useful?
     
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    The Corthay half topied sole.
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Anyone who's against rubber sole or topy has not been in tropical weathers; any leather sole will get irreversible water damage under those conditions with water sipped from the sole all the way into insole and upper. None of those storm welt or Norwegian construction will help.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    My next pair comes with topy, it prolongs the life of your sole by 3 to 5 times, and I don't find a worn leather sole any more appealing than leather.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    Why not use full dainite sole then?



     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  12. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Because they don't come in dainite and full rubber from St Crispins is a lot thicker.
     
  13. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    With all the talk of museum calf lately have me thinking about asking Stc to make me a pair with it, anyone have any experiences so far?
     
  14. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Karl won't able to hand finish it, I guess that is why EG and G&G don't offer it as well.
     
  15. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    I can imagine Karl will be disappointed when he won't able to hand finished the shoes for you he has to polish the sole and edges which he has done to my suede shoes to the past :).
     
  16. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Danite isn't an option for many makers unless its MTO.

    And I do resole many used shoes with danite for use in inclement weathers.
     
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Danite, Vibram "Fineline," Topy, and a slew of other products do have utility even if only in the minds of the consumer.

    I can understand the apparent necessity in tropical environments...I don't live in a tropical environment although when I began my career I lived right on the fringes of a "three canopy rain forest."

    But I have to question the logic...just a little...of wearing any leather in a tropical environment. If you're getting that much rain a Topy half sole isn't going to prevent the rest of the outsole from soaking water in the waist, or along the edges. Nor is it going to prevent the heel from getting soaked. Or the upper--vamps counters quarters--for that matter.

    And if you've got showers or downpour every afternoon, your shoes aren't going to dry out overnight either.

    If you've got that much rain, the logic suggests that using leather in any part of the shoe is counter-intuitive if not counter-productive. But then, I suspect that logic aside, "utility" is like beauty--in the eye of the beholder.

    Just my 2¢...
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Tropical weather doesn't require rain coat for everyday wear and certainly does not preclude leather soles.

    But rubber sole provides as much utility as leather in those conditions, if one has to keep his toes covered.
     
  19. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    We just try to compromise, historically we will wear the equivalent of slipper most of the time..., not the most elegant solution with suits yea?

    I grew up in Taiwan, if there is a real down pour, you just won't wear the same shoe next day, it won't get dried in a day even if you stuff newspaper in it. That goes with sneaker/leather shoes
     
  20. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Agreed.
     

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