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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Do they offer fully bespoke shoes? I was under impression that they only offer last modifications but not bespoke shoes.
     
  2. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Marketing, hype and snob value.
     
  3. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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  4. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    Not quite sure you can get the same level of construction and finish from Vogel - but i have no experience with Vogel - never stopped in to see them. I'd be interested in hearing about your experience re: Vogel. If i recall correctly, the reviews on SF and AAAC have been mixed to negative but the sample size is pretty small.
     
  5. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    I do not have experience with E Vogel, I just think that it makes sense to go for bespoke shoes if you have a bespoke maker in your own backyard. I do have experience with Maftei bespoke shoes. The construction wise they are well built. I have been wearing them through snow, they have taken beating on more than one occasion and they held up very well. They were a few hundred $$ less than what St. Crispin charges.

    P.S. I committed Style Forum sin, I ordered bespoke shoes in black calf color.:D
     
  6. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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  7. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    You can buy full bespoke AH shoes in Vienna for less than $1700 - Maftei is a very good example - but you really need to travel to Vienna. You can buy Vass RTW in Budapest for MUCH less than $1700 but they don't do trunkshows and have a very small presence in the US.

    I think the advantage to StC, you can find a Leffot, Leathersoul, Leatherfoot, etc that can help you dial in your StC fit, give you styling advice and advocate on your behalf for any ordering mishaps, etc. And honestly, their marketing is really fantastic - the styles and lasts they profile online and in trunkshows are really in tune with what a lot of men like these days (myself included). Phillip is really crushing it - I think he charges too much for MTO but he's getting what EG and AS are charging and people seem to be really happy with the fit. Whatever he is doing - it's working.

    Perhaps Vogel can do the same thing - I've always been underwhelmed by their website and styling examples.

    http://vogelboots.com/shoes.asp

    Maftei did a trunkshow in NYC in January but the timing was bad - basically in the middle of a snowstorm. They didn't linkup with a retailer in NY - did it in a hotel suite. I don't think it was well planned and they missed an opportunity.. Hope they come back again.
     
  8. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    $1700 for:

    Complete customization of shoe
    Hand last
    Customized last to your foot, not bespoke but pretty close
    Delivery in 8-10 weeks
    Solid hollow lasted trees
    No time invested outside of 30 minutes at retailer

    Outside of NYC hard to get access to other shoe makers with this level of service / customization. My last EG MTO was $1350 and that was Skoaktie price. Trees were $115 or so extra so looking at $1450 total with no last customization and limited options with MTO. John Lobb mto is more. Vass would be nice to get last modified mto but you aren't in budapest that often.




    Yes this is true but posting shoes are ugly doesn't add any value to forum neither, it's just being an ass

    If you wanted people to give you feedback I'm pretty sure plenty of people would give you their experiences and as laufer said there's been a good amount of discussion over these topics in PM
     
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Really? And I thought the snobs were the bespoke elitists scoffing at St. Crispin's as overhyped junk?

    I for one am not willing to generalize that bespoke always means better quality. I'd have to look at a specific $1700 bespoke shoe next to a St. Crispin's and see if that particular shoe exhibited better design, construction, materials and finish for the money.
     
  10. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    Quote:
    did he say tripe or did I misread ?
     
  11. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    My original posts were meant to draw a distinction to the 'circle jerk' so eloquently referenced above - I've been following this thread for quite some time. Please re-read my full post that you quote from - it's meant to end the discussion.

    Maftei Full Bespoke thru Vienna - about $1100 + $100 for first last (that's minus VAT) - with lasted trees. Delivered in about 6 weeks. I've seen them in person a number of times and own a pair - they are excellent value and are very beautiful shoes. If Lucian Maftei was able to market his shoes internationally the way Phillip has done, he would be the talk of the town. Big difference here is that Maftei is an AH bespoke maker and his styles reflect the AH traditional. Philip is Vienna-based and does his production out of Romania - the shoes he profiles are sleeker and more modern than the traditional AH lasts. Again - he's really nailed it... And if guys like the fit - that's really the most important thing. Fuck the type and color of the leather, etc - it's all about the fit. If Phillip is getting that right, he wins...
     
  12. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    What about the fit? To me fit is the most important.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    I quite agree. But with expert fitting and customized lasts, fit should be fantastic absent some really significant issue with a particular customer's feet.

    My first pair should be arriving in a couple weeks - I'll let you know.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
  14. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Mine are riva last - no last modifications at all - fit is fantastic.

    And they look great too ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  15. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Eh, why compare SC to other lower prices bespoke makers that's not readily available or accessible???

    Even Vass does last modification personal lasts at half of SC's price. But what's the point? SC charges those prices because they can and they need to.

    p.s., SC was a bespoke only operation initially before RTW and later on added MTO.
     
  16. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Maftei is underrated they can do something sleek if you choose to. I feel the company have good potential to grow if it's market properly. Saint Crispins was also virtually unknown until the igents discovered it few years ago.
     
  17. AlexG33

    AlexG33 Senior member

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    just to reply to the question on why pay $1700 for SCs rather than bespoke, firts of all going bespoke requires you to have the bespoke maker either in your back yard or in a city where you travel often as to get the fittings and second bespoke doesn't always mean better....
     
  18. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Agree completely.

    And as between an in-store fit for St. Crispin's and sending a bespoke maker various measurements that I have taken myself (yes, I am given to understand that some bespoke makers actually work this way) I will place my bet for best fit on the former.

    And to your final point - you are quite correct - not all bespoke shoes are better than all RTW shoes - despite the seeming widespread acceptance of that generalization.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    ...
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  20. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Guys,

    I was never insinuating that anyone should cash in his 401K and fly across the pond to order bespoke shoes. What I said in my original post is that if you are in NY and willing to shell out $1700 for a pair of shoes you might want to consider going bespoke for the price or less. E Vogel makes bespoke shoes.

    I have nothing against St. Crispin but I learned a long time ago that a fit ca be a very tricky. Some ten years ago I would testified under the oath that Aleen Edmonds last no 5 is a best fit for me. It was not. I have tried everything in that last, balmorals, open style derby shoes, boots, whoelcut shoes, in the end I cam to the realization that last just does not fit me.

    I had a same experience with EG lasts 82 and 888 respectively. When I tried them for the first time they seemed OK, I wore them for couple of hours and they seemed OK, only when I wore them for the full day I realized that they do not fit, it fact they hurt my feet so bad they are practical unwearable without some padding below my forefoot. Edward Green even sent me those full length insoles but they did not help either.


    Anyways this is St. Crispin appreciation thread and I am going to keep it that way. Next time I visit NY, I will drop by the Leffot and check out St. Crispin shoes. I will give them a fair try. The only poroblem is that I have more than enough of all kinds of shoes I find it hard to justify spending that much money but who knows a something might catch my eye.
     
    1 person likes this.

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